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Questions on Line Locks

RonnieK

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Alright y'all. Back with questions on Line Locks because after some research, this seems extremely over-complicated and I'm kind of baffled. Multi-part question so if you don't mind listing the number in which you're response is for.

My set up: 68 Charger with disc's around. Currently have the two lines running off the master cylinder to a 5 point proportion value (PV). Two sucking in. Two out (One out to rear. One out to left wheel.) One out to right wheel.

1. What's your favorite Line Lock?

2. Seeing most Line Locks are supposed to be after the proportioning valve? Am I correct (in my situation) when I say I'm supposed to block one of the two outs to the front from the PV, have the other front out, run from PV to Line Lock, then Line Lock out to a T splitter, that splits the lines again to go to Right and Left Wheel? Why is the T splitter block necessary? This seems extremely inefficient and overproduced to add to the chain again. Why not just have two outs on a LL and eliminate the T splitter completely?

3. Is buying a multi-out LL as simple as eliminating No. 2's T-splitter dilemma? Example: buying a 1-in, 3-out means...

- plugging one on the proportion valve outs to the "front"
- running the second front out to the LL
- plugging one out from the LL outs because it's a 3 out, and then outs two and three go to left and right wheel individually?

Hope I didn't overcomplicate this already seemingly overcomplicated process haha
 
I run mine in the front line right close to the m/c.
 
I run mine in the front line right close to the m/c.
Where it is on my Swinger as well, brakes on.. push da button in.. foot off brakes and the fronts stay locked 'till you let go of da button.. simple as that.
 
Not familiar with "three out" line lock...will have to look into this. Does it have only two wires, meaning one solenoid? A roll control that does both front and back would need a way to switch the back to "off" for burnouts.... Your next step in roll control is a transbrake. :blah:

**EDIT** I'm with ya now... reading on some of the instructions... it's really unclear why the multiple ports... I only saw instructions on the Jegs unit that read "just plug the unused ports". Other units seemed to have no mention of why multiple outlets. Also, the Jegs one called for the front brakes to be locked from ONE port, using a tee fitting. No clue what the remaining ports are for??
 
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Not familiar with "three out" line lock...will have to look into this. Does it have only two wires, meaning one solenoid? A roll control that does both front and back would need a way to switch the back to "off" for burnouts.... Your next step in roll control is a transbrake. :blah:

**EDIT** I'm with ya now... reading on some of the instructions... it's really unclear why the multiple ports... I only saw instructions on the Jegs unit that read "just plug the unused ports". Other units seemed to have no mention of why multiple outlets. Also, the Jegs one called for the front brakes to be locked from ONE port, using a tee fitting. No clue what the remaining ports are for??

So... here's my understanding and what I've learned from talking with several racers. I have ordered and will run with this info below.

The multi-out port avoids the splitter distribution block you would need with a one-outlet line lock. All you need to do is plug any outlet not used and then the two others go to the wheels.

The LL always should go after the proportioning valve because if you put it prior, you risk damaging valves in instances where button/brake pedal is pushed when it shouldn't/simultanous.

If you run a single in, single out LL, you put it after the proportioning valve. Plug one of the outs on the proportioning valve, run the other one to the LL then you run one line out of the LL to a distribution block that splits the fluid into two lines, which then run to the caliper on each side.

Buying a multi-out eliminates the addition of a distribution block as you just run two lines out to the calipers. If it's a one in and one out and installed after the prop valve like it should, you have no choice but to split the line with a distribution block.
 
You can just eliminate the stock distribution block altogether. Run the rear brake line from the m/c through an aftermarket prop valve then all the way to the rear. Run the front brake line through the line-loc then to a T (if single line out) to each front brake. The brake switch on the stock block serves no purpose other than to light the "brake" light on the dash when there is an almost total failure - you'll know with a light having to tell you !!!
 
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