Rack & Pinion

[cdr]

Late to the thread if anyone is still subscribed (cdr) can you tell me what you did to correct turning radius problems. Just installed one on my 70 RR. Not at all happy with the kit.had to grind a lot on the main bracket to get it to bolt up to cross members, modify headers, will need to modify p/s pump bracket to clear a/c belts. Would not recommend anyone else buying one

on the pump i made a puller & turned the pulley around so the offset would clear the ac belts,for turning radius where the outer tie rod mounts i cut off the end of the arm on the ball joint ,drill a new hole in the arm & weld the piece that was cut off with the tapered hole to the bottom side of the now shorter arm lining up with the new hole, had to drill the tie rods for cotter pins & use short castle nuts that i got off the cars original tie rods.

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the tie rods will still go in from the bottom side.

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by shortening the throw on the lower ball joint the wheels turn more,the piece welded on the bottom has the taper you need & also by lowering the outer tie rod corrects most of the bumpsteer problems.

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[Rex]

Thanks

Reversing pulley will save some fab time, I will look into shortening the arms on lower ball joints Thanks

 

[dodgey68]

do you have any pics on the alterations on the lower ball joints and tie rods ,,please'

 

[318 Six Pack]

This dude did a pretty skookum job of installing an Omni rack in one of his cars. Seems like a good little bit of fab work to add it to a K member. Has some good geometry tips in there too. Three parts.

Also, read in one of the places that sells the Omni units that the racks they sell can only handle 1100 PSI maximum. IIRC, one of the Saginaw pump units puts out 1050 max, but several OE MOPAR units go well above 1100.

 

[Budnicks]

on the pump i made a puller & turned the pulley around so the offset would clear the ac belts,for turning radius where the outer tie rod mounts i cut off the end of the arm on the ball joint ,drill a new hole in the arm & weld the piece that was cut off with the tapered hole to the bottom side of the now shorter arm lining up with the new hole, had to drill the tie rods for cotter pins & use short castle nuts that i got off the cars original tie rods.

- - - Updated - - -

the tie rods will still go in from the bottom side.

- - - Updated - - -

by shortening the throw on the lower ball joint the wheels turn more,the piece welded on the bottom has the taper you need & also by lowering the outer tie rod corrects most of the bumpsteer problems.

- - - Updated - - -

That's great information, thanks



my steering pump & lower crank pulley {serpentine} were a little different
they were from March performance alum smaller "dual six rib belt"
mine doesn't run on/over a water pump,
it only runs the alt & the PS pump only
I use a electric water pump & an idler pulley
on the supplied (GM style)power steering pump side
to keep the belt away from that area/rubbing
so my shimming & brackets were a bit different
I also used the org. alum serpentine pulley in the org. orientation
on the pump that came with it

if I was to do it again, I'd do a low mount
as low as I could on both sides PS Pump & Alt
with out making to hard to get to stuff,
it helps to make it look cleaner/less/busy or cluttered IMO