RB rods

[miller]

Minor things could change, and even straighten out, your numbers.

Rods need to be clean. Don't know if you've already done that. I split the rods, looking at the mating surfaces on each, for being clean, and any burrs that have formed on the edges. Clean off the burrs with a file, but not touch the surface faces.

Set of rods I worked time before, in the main bores, bearings out, had light metal transfer from the outsides of the bearings. Wet scotchbrite cleaned the metal transfer off to original machined surface, and each rod measurement fell right in...within .00015.

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Yes, that is one heck of a C-clamp! Glad it worked for you.

Overall, those rods look in pretty good shape. Too good to scrap for sure.

 

[dvw]

That I suppose by name this is a C-clamp. In actuality it's a ball joint press. And yes being designed as a press it would remove a pin. Your measuring skills are impressive.
Doug

 

[Cranky]

I'm surprised a set of new rods aren't balanced. I thought that was the point of buying a set.

Nope....and it doesn't matter how many years experience a machinist has, you always check their work before installing. There used to be a local shop that had an excellent machinist....when he wasn't hung over or coming down from some kind of a high. Always check new parts before using them.

Always good to hear when someone is willing to use their own hands. Something I said to my two youngest sons, both now electricians, and both like me, bearly made it through high school. There's two kinds of people...those that can, and those that can't. Ones who can, so be it, those that can't, need to pay through the nose!

From my personal experience, measuring the big bore on rods, needs to be tightened together (or torqued). It takes a good hand, even re-checking a few times, something I do as habit. I prefer using a snap gauge, that you 'roll' through the bore, and getting the results with a micrometer. Needs to be checked 4-6 different locations around the bore. That has always worked for me. But, I'll admit, I've been measuring motor parts all of my adult life, and have my own good set of mics.

It can take a handful of common sense tossed at the deal, too.

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If the wrist pin end is too big, one possible would be bushed. But, that would call for full floating pins, and keepers. Always options, just depends on what's needed...including a change of rods. That hole usually does not go bad.

I like to use an inside mic for the big end and then use an OD mic for the final result. Sounds like you have the right touch to use a snap gauge tho.

LY rods are good rods but they are used.Used anything in a motor has an expiry date( worn out ) Nobody knows when it is.Having said that new H beam rods are good if they are not the cheapest you can find. Eagles,Hughes,K1,Manley,etc. are good.Resizing old rods
is a must and should only be done once before discarding them. It puts the size of the crank end back to stock and also round as they were new.The piston end must be checked for size,roundness and fit with new pin. It may need a bushing installed.Also new rod bolts should be fitted and the holes checked for wear and fit.Then they need to be balanced the same. Most cases it is better to buy new. If you don't you still have used rods ? Not good sence to me. Hope this helps.

Everything fatigues over time and especially so with abuse and heat cycles and if the abuse and the heat cycles are extreme, they will probably fail before the first rebuild but there are still a lot of passenger car engines out there that have never seen more than 3000 rpm just waiting to be rebuilt to run again. They don't pop up quite so often anymore but they still do from time to time. I check my own rods and mag them then make a decision on if they are worthy or not based on what the engine looked like before tear down and if I'm lucky, I get to see the car the engine came out of. Most mechanical parts tell a story and being able to read that story helps.

 

[Glenwood]

Thanks Doug, I'm trying!

Thanks for the tips Miller. I had wiped the surfaces but didn't clean, so I scrubbed them with a scotchbrite pad and rechecked the big ends with a dial bore this time. They were all spot on 2.5000. I realize this is mostly a waste of time but I enjoy the process. The shop will give me their opinion when we get to that point.

Cranky, these rods were from the 1973 413 block, likely a truck or motorhome motor. The bearings have little wear, the forged crank looked good and the cylinders were nearly perfect. Maybe it never made it over 3000 rpm? I'm hoping it'll turn out to be a good engine for my 64 cruiser.

I'll leave this thread and go back to my little rusty cowl issue...yay thanks all for the help!

 

[miller]

Go for it, guy. Just good to hear someone can still use their hands, and brains!

Yeah, I'm trying to get my 64 back up from the dead, too.