Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

The Jigsaw Charger is really simple. 11.75" front discs, 2.75" single piston calipers, 10" rear drums and a manual 15/16" master cylinder.

As far as comparing the two, I'd have to have them side by side to see the difference in stopping distances. They definitely feel different though.
Jigsaw's brakes start to engage with more bite initially and do get better the harder I press. Ginger isn't as touchy at first but get exponentially better with more foot pressure. Jigsaw is lighter though. No carpet, no A/C, 383 vs 440, etc. Jigsaw is probably 3650 as is, Ginger is closer to 3900. That weight matters a lot.

 

[fesser]

Thanks Kern. Just hit the order button on Dr. Diff's site for the stage two, disc stuff (and front suspension). I hope it works well. I love both your Chargers but I gotta tell you, Jigsaw is really growing on me. Has a "so what" kind of attitude.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks!

They both have their own level of charm!

 

[dana44]

Thanks!

View attachment 1410232View attachment 1410234


They both have their own level of charm!

Jigsaw looks great! my kinda style. the firehawks look good.

 

[fesser]

I bet you will get bugged by people who want to by Jigsaw more, when you are out and about, because they will think you are a broke dude who doesn't know what you have. With Ginger they know you know.

 

[Kern Dog]

Driving each car garners different responses.
Jigsaw draws respect from real car guys that have more skills than dollars. I’m invisible to women in Jigsaw though.
Come to think of it, as I have lost much of my boyish good looks, soon I’ll need to have my hair on fire to get them to notice me.
Good thing I have a good wife!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Jigsaw draws respect from real car guys that have more skills than dollars.

I like both of your charges, but this is why I like jigsaw, it’s more relatable to average Joe.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Look at the brg tang indentations in the rod's big end. Compare the indentation of the cap with the rod. Measure how far each indentation is from from the side of the rod & also the cap. If same distance, rod can go in either way on the crank. If the dimensions are different, the larger side goes to the crank cheek.

I have seen this not work out. Normally you are correct, the chamfer is on the side the bearing is offset away from, however some bearings end up being centered and the chamfer is the determining factor of how this rod is oriented on the journal.
KD, the reason for the chamfer on the rod is because aftermarket crankshafts have radiused journals, so the edge of the throw is not a 90* end, it is a radius that strengthens tge rod journal on tge crankshaft. I hope I made this clear.

 

[Kern Dog]

I weighed the car today.
For a recap:
I was at 3980 after I did the 5 speed swap in January 2021. From then until I pulled the engine, I don't think that I did anything that would affect the weight.
During the project, I shaved some weight and gained a little.
The Dr Diff 13" front brakes shaved 14 lbs due to the aluminum hubs and calipers.
The Borgeson steering box and the return to standard ratio steering arms shaved 14 lbs.
Shorter rear tires shed about 6 1/2 lbs.
I have an aluminum master cylinder that shaved 3 lbs.
The hollow front sway bar shed 8 lbs.
But.....
I have a vacuum pump, storage tank and lines in place. That may have added 5-6 lbs.
I went to 11/16" tie rod ends and steel adjusting sleeves. That added maybe 2-3 lbs.
I had the spacesaver spare in the trunk. That added 38 lbs.
My weight today.......
3980.

I forgot that before, I didn't have a spare in the trunk.
All that weight savings only to balance out the added weight of the spare.

Ahhh, so what ? It isn't really that important. I was hoping to be in the 3950 range and aside from the spare, I actually am. I'm not road racing it in competition where every lb lost is a step ahead of the other guy.
The brakes do work well though. The alignment is so far off though, it is hard to keep it straight when I stab the brakes. I stepped away from the car awhile back to get Jigsaw registered. I can now alternate between the two.
Jigsaw weighs 3620 with a spare. That puts it around 3580 without one. Ginger is 360 lbs more.

The scales aren't accurate down to the pound though. They are in 20 lb increments. I keep going back there because going to another scale may bring different results and I'd prefer to be consistent.

 

[padam]

I weighed my 73 about 35 years ago after I installed the 413 and 4 speed.
It weighed 3980.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

KD - what's the main reason for Jigsaw being so light?

I've only weighed my 1968 Satellite w/ low deck 400/451 big block 727 twice and both times it was the same (including spare tire).

Once at 2018 spring fling - 3700
Once at the drive-in scales at a shipping place near south Fremont - 3700

I'm running almost all the aluminum parts I can, except for the brake master cylinder. I've since installed a 7-lb Lithium Titanate battery, reducing overall weight by 30 lbs. I hope to further reduce weight with the Borgeson steering swap, but will be adding A/C compressor and new pulleys, so I may only realize the battery reduction and should be around 3670.

 

[Kern Dog]

I am surprised at how light the Jigsaw car is.
I expect a fairly loaded B body to be around 4000 lbs.
Several small things would explain the difference between the two cars.
Ginger has A/C, a fan shroud, P/S cooler, 1.15" torsion bars, 440 block vs 383, sound deadener, carpet, bucket seats and console, trunk mounted battery with all the extra wiring that takes, HD leaf springs, 3" exhaust..... the wheels and tires may be heavier too.
I used 3 x 3 for the frame connectors in this car but 2 x 3 in Jigsaw.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I too have all the above goodies on my car at 3700 lbs (dynamat, tubular subrame connectors, 1.00" torsion bars, etc), but low deck 400 and aluminum wheels, I imagine the motor size difference could be a hundred plus pounds?

 

[Kern Dog]

Between your Satellite and mine?
The B block was supposed to be around 35-40 lbs less from what I recall.
1.0 vs 1.15 torsion bars. Tubular frame connectors vs 3x3 .140 wall, plus torque boxes.
The Plymouth fenders and hood are shorter. The distance from the core support to the grille is tight on the Plymouth. I could smuggle a body in mine!
Battery in trunk includes 18 feet of 1.0 cable, 16 feet of 2 gauge ground cable, 18 feet of starter solenoid trigger wire too.
If I wanted to spend the money for that ultra lightweight battery and mount it under the hood, I could save 60 lbs in battery and wiring.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I’ve got torques boxes and 1/0 cable also. I think the main weight besides the motor is the sheet metal. I didn’t realize the charger is longer

This motor swap thread has legs. We’re getting into all kinds of info.

 

[Kern Dog]

Today I'll measure from the cowl to the outer edge of the front bumper. That is a reference point that we all share.

 

[cdr]

my 68 3900lbs with no hood

 

[Kern Dog]

The hood probably weighs over 100 lbs when you include the hinges. You have that spoiler out back and huge rear tires. You also have a 518 too, right? That has to weigh more than the 727.
The 5 speed swap resulted in a 20 lb loss from the 727.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm finally getting it aligned tomorrow. The last alignment was 2013.
I still can't get the brakes to lock on dry pavement. This is one of the great mysteries that I have yet to solve....the braking with this car.
The brakes feel fine, they stop fine but for some reason, they just don't amaze me. I don't ever feel as if I need to lift off the pedal to keep from skidding or simply slowing faster than I want.
It is part of my nature to be curious and wonder why. It isn't as if I lose sleep but it does pester me when I can't figure something out.
Not a single combination that I have tried has given me enough force to skid the tires.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'm finally getting it aligned tomorrow. The last alignment was 2013.
I still can't get the brakes to lock on dry pavement. This is one of the great mysteries that I have yet to solve....the braking with this car.
The brakes feel fine, they stop fine but for some reason, they just don't amaze me. I don't ever feel as if I need to lift off the pedal to keep from skidding or simply slowing faster than I want.
It is part of my nature to be curious and wonder why. It isn't as if I lose sleep but it does pester me when I can't figure something out.
Not a single combination that I have tried has given me enough force to skid the tires.

Maybe those big tires grip so much they over power the brakes. Try some narrower tires. Maybe put 50/6o psi for a try out? Check max psi of tires.