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ready to flush out break in lube...Brad Penn?

djais1801

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I have hit the 300 mile mark w/ my break in lube and heard good things on Brad Penn 20W50...I looked it up, and it's partially synthetic-is that okay on a new motor?
 
Never used it myself, but if you are trying to find out (via the internet) what to expect, I would suggest plugging in 'Brad Penn 20W50' to a Google search and see what comes up. A quick search told me that it doesn't do well in colder climates and does not fare well if run beyond a couple thousand miles. Posters mentioned it 'lumps up', or 'gels'. While that would keep pressure registering high on the gauge, I can't imagine that it would result in a good job of lubricating the engine.
 
I wouldn't run any synthetic or blend in any engine until after around 1000-1500 miles. That way, you can be sure the rings are fully seated in. Which they are NOT at only 300 miles.
 
Speaking of Brad Penn, I see Kendall is back on the market.

Interesting. I had switched from castrol to Kendall before taking a break from old cars, and was very happy with it. Wonder if it's the same company or another of those startup companies that has bought the rights to an old successful name.
 
20-50 might be a little thick if you have fairly tight tolerances (i.e. factory). I have 15-40 in my 440 or can go with 10-30 when the temp drops.

The only issue I know of with synthetic oil is seal compatibility, and that is if the synthetic is an ester based oil. Ester based oil is not compatible with a Buna-N seal or o-ring. I don't think there is any issue with putting synthetic in a new engine, and in fact a lot of new cars use it as a factory fill.

I think if an oil is so good that it can prevent piston rings under tension, pressure and heat due to the combustion process from scraping against the iron cylinder walls, more people other than me will want to know about it!
 
bump...anyone rebuild their engine lately..what are they using after the break in lube? thanks
 
bump...anyone rebuild their engine lately..what are they using after the break in lube? thanks

I just bought a 67 Hemi GTX. Larry Shepard of Hemis Only had rebuilt the motor. The only oil he uses is Pennzoil 25w50 plus a container of ZDDP with every oil change. He has been doing this for over 35 years so I think he knows what he is doing. I am only speaking about Gereration II "Elaphant" motors. I don't know about others.
 
I just bought a 67 Hemi GTX. Larry Shepard of Hemis Only had rebuilt the motor. The only oil he uses is Pennzoil 25w50 plus a container of ZDDP with every oil change. He has been doing this for over 35 years so I think he knows what he is doing. I am only speaking about Gereration II "Elaphant" motors. I don't know about others.

I'm certain it can hold true for anything using similar clearances.
 
my engine is 383 internals with a 400 block, stock pistons, ported heads..i believe it could be considered a 383 .60 over?
 
In my freshly rebuilt max wedge I run Comp Cams 10-30. Our climate here goes from about 32* to a little over 100* depending on the time of year. Good oil pressure and clean inside. It's a blended synthetic and contains zinc and phosphorous anti-wear additives. The main thing is to change the oil and filter at regular intervals.
 
In my freshly rebuilt max wedge I run Comp Cams 10-30. Our climate here goes from about 32* to a little over 100* depending on the time of year. Good oil pressure and clean inside. It's a blended synthetic and contains zinc and phosphorous anti-wear additives. The main thing is to change the oil and filter at regular intervals.
i was told not to use synthetic/ blend for at least 10,000 miles.
 
Ask 1,000 people, get a 1,000 different answers. I ran a break-in oil for the first 500 miles and then switched to the blend. The motor was driven to load and then unload the rings (accelerate and decelerate at different speeds) with occassional short WOT bursts. Compression is very even between cylinders, from 185 to 190 each. NO leaks. My Cad CTS came with full synthetic from the factory. I think there are a lot of myths out there. Do what YOU are comfortable with. The above works for me.
 
my engine is 383 internals with a 400 block, stock pistons, ported heads..i believe it could be considered a 383 .60 over?

No, it's a .060" over 400. The 383 and 400 have the same internals except for the pistons. 383 bore is 4.250", 400 bore is 4.342". .060" over is 4.402". That's .152" bigger than a 383.
 
" I haven't done any break in yet." So don't beat me with a stick yet. Ok so I have a 440 with. 509 cam. Im not sure, but i think it has double valve springs. The assembling mechanic said I could break it in without taking out the inner spring. Just to not rev the motor for 20 minutes. Is he correct or a tard? He also told me to break it in with regular oil. I'm not doing that! I got some royal purple break in oil. But really want to know if i can do that or if it would be detrimental to the cam?
 
You really want to know what? Don't understand the question.............
 
Can you break in a cam with both springs in if you let it idle for 20 minutes?

Sorry , hope this is simpler.
 
Absolutely not, fatecaptured. Remove the inner valve springs to relieve pressure on the lifter to cam surfaces. And as soon as it fires up get it revving around 2000 rpm to sling/splash oil the camshaft.
 
Penn oil 20-50 in my engine.... Broke engine in with it too....... Runs fine,,,, good oil pressure.... It's ready for its next change now..... Then once a summer probably.....
 
Thats what I figured. I'm not certain if it has double spring's, but I assume so. And I specifically asked the guy about it and he claimed it was ok to leave them in... What a joke. That's kinda why i'm excited about the fire up. I'm afraid of what it will do. Seems like the guy didn't know what the hell he was talking about.



All i've ever read, said the same thing you say. Run the engine at 200 rpm and vary the rpms so that the lifters spin in their bores.
 
I have comp cams 15w 50 break in oil in my 440 right now. I was thinking about using castrol gtx 10w30 with a lucas break in additive after i change the oil.
 
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