Rear axel stud hole oversized, what to do?

[Malicious]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of freshening up my rear end and one of the axels was missing a stud so I've ordered in a new stud. However the hole is too big for the stud, it slots in easy and spins.

SO, wtf can I do about it? Is the axel fubar or can I tack weld the stud in place? Or is there a sleeve or something available?

Help!

 

[Photon440]

Did they give you the right studs? For example, you can get a 1/2" X 20 X 1 1/2" stud for a Ford, or for a Mopar. The Mopar has a .665 knurled area while the Ford is only .625.

 

[Malicious]

So I get .667 on the spline and .655 behind the spline before head. I guess I have the right stud, I'd hope so too as it came from a mopar specialist.

Dam I was hoping that might be it. Any ideas?

 

[Redhorse719]

Find a auto parts store that still looks up things with catalogs. They should have a Dorman catalog with specs on all automotive lug/bolts that Dorman makes. You should be able to find one with larger knurled area with the same sized threaded end. I worked in an auto parts store and looked this up many times. Good luck.

There might be other manufactures but Dorman/Help is what I am familiar with.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Or, you could use that computer thingy right in front of you and do a search for dorman. Download the dorman wheel stud and nut catalog pdf and look it up. Just sayin

Worse case scenario is you tack the stud to the axle.

 

[Daves69]

So I get .667 on the spline and .655 behind the spline before head. I guess I have the right stud, I'd hope so too as it came from a mopar specialist.

Dam I was hoping that might be it. Any ideas?

Still loose?
I see Moser sells .685" knurl studs so I'm sure you can find one that will work.

http://www.moserengineering.com/other-parts/studs/1-2-20-x-3-685-knurl-press-in.html

 

[Malicious]

Thanks Guys, it was a Sunday here (Australia) so I couldn't call around and check if an oversized Knurl was an option. Wasn't sure how often this was an issue or if it was just a KO on the axle.

So after a ring around this morning there is nothing even close to the standard size let alone bigger available at our auto stores so I'm going to have to order it in from the USA. Measuring the hole I'm looking at a max of maybe .675. The closest Dorman has is 610-103 with an advertised knurl of 0.673. Next size up is 610-446 with a knurl of 0.684.

.684 seams too big, but is the .673 just asking for more trouble? I'm assuming the knurl measurement advertised is around the splined section? so it's likely its too small?

Rock seams to have both, so I might get one of each.

Past that, if I go to tacking it in place, do I need to have an extra precautions or balancing issues? or just hit it 3-4 times around the head to the back of the axle flange?

I'm more of a perfectionist, I'd prefer to get a stud then weld it, but I need to get this rear end back together asap.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

If the hole in your axle is slightly bigger due to the stud spinning, you can either get a stud with a larger knurl and open the hole in the axle up to the appropriate size for that stud, or, use the stud that is supposed to go in the axle and tack it in. It only needs to hold long enough to tighten the wheel. Once torqued it will be fine

 

[Photon440]

If you're going to tack weld it, which isn't an unheard of thing with studs, put on a stack of washers and tighten the nut first. That way it'll be straight when you're done.

 

[Daves69]

IMO, I'd try to refrain from the weld unless its a last resort deal. Plenty of material there to press in the O/S knurl studs. If that .673" goes in real easy you'll likely need the .684". The hole might require a bit of massaging with a slim taper file.

 

[67 coronet]

if you end up with the weld,bolt the axle to the wheel before you weld it.this will align the stud to the wheel and prevent any balance issue that could happen.(not likely with one stud,but better to be safe then sorry.)i would get both studs first,and see if either will work.

 

[nm9stheham]

And if you do weld, tack real fast to minimize heat into the flange to avoid any cracking. It doesn't need much; just enough to keep it from spinning. You might also clamp some vice-grips on the area to pull the heat out, or, put a wet rag in the underside of the tack weld area to pull the heat out.

 

[Photon440]

Rather than the wet rag, try some heat sponge. It's great stuff for absorbing welding heat.
http://www.usaweld.com/Super-Heat-Sponge-p/12084-32.htm

 

[nm9stheham]

^^^ Sounds like a coppper block in a can! LOL Glad you posted this.