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rear leaf question

I would say you hit the mark with the GTX.

I looked into having my springs rearched, but that seems to be a dying art. Every place around here but one has stopped doing it, and the one place that does only deals with truck springs.
 
spring settle

Damn, absolutely beautiful cars. mines a blue collar brawler, cauliflower ears, broken nose, done a few 15 rounders lol.

on the subject of springs settling, take eaton for example... is the advertised height of the springs unsrung weight ratings? if so how much do you think a 2 inch increase will drop with car weight, then the natural spring settling?
car is a 70 charger
 
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Damn, absolutely beautiful cars. mines a blue collar brawler, cauliflower ears, broken nose, done a few 15 rounders lol.

on the subject of springs settling, take eaton for example... is the advertised height of the springs unsrung weight ratings? if so how much do you think a 2 inch increase will drop with car weight, then the natural spring settling?
car is a 70 charger

Best to give them a call to ask. They are really knowledgeable and easy to talk with.
 
You're right about the grass, but it was the only pic I had of the side like that. I will take a new one in the street tomorrow.

In the grass, it (the stance) looks good.

I'm still waiting to see what it looks like on level pavement...'Tomorrow' was 2 1/2 weeks ago. :edgy:
 
I was incorrect before. I did Eaton Springs, 1 inch over stock.

Here is the after picture of the GTX

Man! That stance looks PERFECT. You say you did Eaton springs ordered stock plus 2 inches high? Do you need to specify HD like if you order from Mopar Performance? If I wouldn't have seen that AFTER photo I would have thought + 2 inches would be too much, but it looks great. Can you please tell us what size tires front and rear you are running?
 
In the grass, it (the stance) looks good.

I'm still waiting to see what it looks like on level pavement...'Tomorrow' was 2 1/2 weeks ago. :edgy:

You are correct!!! Never got a pic of the car from the side that day...cars were parked next to me at the show and then it started to rain when I got home and it got put away really quick....then I took the fuel tank sending unit out and I have been fighting with the gas gauge since then!!! Need to figure that problem out first before the car comes back out for more pics.....
 
You are correct!!! Never got a pic of the car from the side that day...cars were parked next to me at the show and then it started to rain when I got home and it got put away really quick....then I took the fuel tank sending unit out and I have been fighting with the gas gauge since then!!! Need to figure that problem out first before the car comes back out for more pics.....

Are you having trouble with the sending unit (a replacement sending unit?) reading accurately? If so, take a look at the encased re-o-stat part of the sending unit from the side...there should be a small hole on each side. Look through the hole as you lift the float arm through its throw. You should see the re-o-stat connector (a piece of wire about the size of a coat hanger) pass the hole as you raise and lower the arm. If your gauge is reading low, stick a scribe, metal coat hanger wire, or anything else rigid through the holes before the piece passes the hole on the way down. Once it comes in contact, move the float down about another half inch to an inch, then remove the wire and re -install into the tank. Obviously go the other way if you 'over reading'. You may have to try this a couple times to get the gauge to satisfactorilly read on the full and empty ends. I adjusted mine twice. It now goes well past the 'F' when full, but is rather accurate when in the 1/4, to 'E' area. Looking in the 'hole', I moved mine a good 1/2" total from its original setting, which would never go much above half tank new out of the box. Hope this helps...you or another member having rouble with their gas gauge reading.

Silly question: You do have the grounding clip (strap) that goes from the sending unit tube (jumping the rubber hose) to the hard line that runs up to the engine, right? Just checking.
 
Are you having trouble with the sending unit (a replacement sending unit?) reading accurately? If so, take a look at the encased re-o-stat part of the sending unit from the side...there should be a small hole on each side. Look through the hole as you lift the float arm through its throw. You should see the re-o-stat connector (a piece of wire about the size of a coat hanger) pass the hole as you raise and lower the arm. If your gauge is reading low, stick a scribe, metal coat hanger wire, or anything else rigid through the holes before the piece passes the hole on the way down. Once it comes in contact, move the float down about another half inch to an inch, then remove the wire and re -install into the tank. Obviously go the other way if you 'over reading'. You may have to try this a couple times to get the gauge to satisfactorilly read on the full and empty ends. I adjusted mine twice. It now goes well past the 'F' when full, but is rather accurate when in the 1/4, to 'E' area. Looking in the 'hole', I moved mine a good 1/2" total from its original setting, which would never go much above half tank new out of the box. Hope this helps...you or another member having rouble with their gas gauge reading.

Silly question: You do have the grounding clip (strap) that goes from the sending unit tube (jumping the rubber hose) to the hard line that runs up to the engine, right? Just checking.

I sitll have the original sending unit. I will give that a try. Didn't have the ground strap at first since the fuel line was cut a little short and the strap does not reach properly. But I did ground the sending unit to the frame with a jumper wire to see if that fixed my problem and it didn't.
 
Man! That stance looks PERFECT. You say you did Eaton springs ordered stock plus 2 inches high? Do you need to specify HD like if you order from Mopar Performance? If I wouldn't have seen that AFTER photo I would have thought + 2 inches would be too much, but it looks great. Can you please tell us what size tires front and rear you are running?

1 inch. No special requirement such as HD
 
Oh yeah - I saw your correction from 2 inch to 1 inch earlier in the thread. Thanks.
And your front and rear tire combo?
 
Not only is it a dying art, but it does not last unless it is done with heat and then it is still not as lasting as new springs. I was lucky to have an old gentleman teach me how to do it. I even have the old leaf spring anvil that he made back in the 1930s. He is long gone now, but I learned a lot from his old crotchety ***. lol

I would say you hit the mark with the GTX.

I looked into having my springs rearched, but that seems to be a dying art. Every place around here but one has stopped doing it, and the one place that does only deals with truck springs.
 
I don't mind the height of the front..besides I am going with 235/60 in the front and 275/60 in the rear, so I don't want to lwer the front if possib




I found these from another post.....thinking about this before trying to find a place to have them re-arched.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-13120/

I was looking for these just yesterday. I put Mopar Perf HD springs on and it didn't give me the hight I want. I want to get rid of the air shocks I'm running.
 

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Thanks for posting this. I was on the fence about XHD or S/S. Now I know the S/S is the way to go. Your car is still awesome, btw. It's one of my favorites here.

I was looking for these just yesterday. I put Mopar Perf HD springs on and it didn't give me the hight I want. I want to get rid of the air shocks I'm running.
 
I could not decide between Eaton or ESPO for new springs, but eventually went with ESPO +1 inch over. They are not museum-quality springs, but everything they sent me was serviceable and was not too much trouble to install. They asked if I wanted 5 or 6 leaf. I said 6. The originals in a 383 RR are 5, and in the 6-leaf from ESPO, the individual leaves are thinner, but the pack ends up being about the same. They do actually raise the back end up about 1 inch. So far I am happy with them and would use them again.

I am not going to post a picture of my RR. It is too beat up.
 
"Not crazy about the shackles idea....."

Good decision. Re-arcing your current springs makes great sense as you can raise it pretty much any amount you want.
 
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