rear seat bottom removal
- Thread starter Billccm
- Start date
We got the seat out tonight. Notice I use the word 'we'; it took three of us to get that seat out. I took the front buckets out, two of us laying on the floor kicking the back seat hard. Passenger side popped right up on the second kick, but drivers side would not budge. Kicked that seat for several minutes, with each of us taking turns. Finally broke out two large pry bars. Two guys prying on anything they could find while I was kicking, and kicking, and kicking. Finally the drivers side popped.
Window regulators lubed well with silicone paste and work like cutting warm butter.
No rust, but no build sheet either.
Thanks for all of the replies.
Window regulators lubed well with silicone paste and work like cutting warm butter.
No rust, but no build sheet either.
Thanks for all of the replies.
Dibbons
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... never hear of "silicone paste" before.
Next to DeOxIt and TriFlow one of my most used car products. Contains 100% silicone paste (most contain 50% silicone and 50% vaseline). Lube your car's window channels and your regulators will last and last. Use on disc brake slides, plug boots, door strikers, etc, etc.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-8946-Sil...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Newer cars have really cheap cable driven power window regulators. I lube the channels once a year with silicone paste and it lessens the load on the window regulators.
A bit late to the party....but I push my front seats forward, then crouch down and use my knees to push the rear seat and then my hands to lift it up. Taking the seats out removes any purchase you have to get some weight behind the knees.
One side at a time, and it's out.
One side at a time, and it's out.
One tries.
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Make certain it is 100% silicone. Many silicone paste products have some petroleum mixed.
I know this is an old post but the task never never ends so I just want to say to the man with the bottle-Jack method……. I LOVE YOU!!!
It took five mins to setup, 30 seconds to crank Jack in, 5 seconds to pry underneath seat frame and presto. No climbing in the car, no back against floors or seat backs, no front seat removal. Just bottle-jack, slide screwdriver or crowbar underneath seat frame and pull up on it. I’m still laughing at how fast that was. Merry Christmas to all!!!
It took five mins to setup, 30 seconds to crank Jack in, 5 seconds to pry underneath seat frame and presto. No climbing in the car, no back against floors or seat backs, no front seat removal. Just bottle-jack, slide screwdriver or crowbar underneath seat frame and pull up on it. I’m still laughing at how fast that was. Merry Christmas to all!!!
73charger340
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That is how I have always done mine. Only time I had a issue was with a car that the welded bracket on the floor was bent.A bit late to the party....but I push my front seats forward, then crouch down and use my knees to push the rear seat and then my hands to lift it up. Taking the seats out removes any purchase you have to get some weight behind the knees.
One side at a time, and it's out.
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A bit more agricultural.....lol.
I've always just pushed it in with my foot and lifted, standing in the door opening. but in the last several years been getting tough to to do that. that's a good idea, first time I've seen it.
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I did the foot deal one time, with my third GTX, searching for the broadcast sheet, which was still in place. The seat popped right out, with no fuss. But that was back in 1992. No way I'd be able to today, sure glad the broadcast sheet for my current car was already in the documents folder.
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