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Rear wheel stud and wheel questions?

daytona kid

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#1- With a stock 8.75 axle set-up, can the rear studs be replaced with axles installed?
#2- Should I replace my stock 7/16 studs with 1/2 ones?
#3- Should I put on long 1/2 studs?
#4- Will long 1/2 studs work with Crager s/s wheels?
 
Is this for an 'A' body? I like to pull my axles when doing this as I find it to be easier to replace the studs with them out. Don't know if 'A' body wheels have smaller stud holes or not.....if that's what you're working on but I'm pretty sure those wheels don't need the longer ones.
 
Yea you can put the 1/2 stud in just need to make sure they clear your lug nuts. Might need to go to an open or deeper lug nut .I've always done them off the car, can get a better angle on them to install. Just my .02
 
What year B has 7/16ths studs? The oldest car I have is a 66 and it came with 1/2" like everything newer...
 
Usually installing the longer 3" axle studs,
required for using drag slicks/NHRA requirements with a thicker type wheel {like a Cragar},
so you have enough stud/threads sticking thru the lug nuts to meet reg.'s,
I would think, it would require to remove the axles & press them in is the easiest way...
disclaimer;
I don't think I've ever tried to install the long studs, with the axle in the housing,
I'd think it's going to be extremely hard to get in/or installed with the axles still in the housing...

good luck
 
I also like to tack weld the studs to the flange on the back side.....
 
Some of the Crager 5 star wheels had oblong holes in them.. I would say pull them out. Easy to do. If the axle gets stuck in just take the drum flip it around backwards and slide over the stock studes. Put a couple lug nuts on loose and use the drum as a slide hammer to pull the axle out.. Easy..
 
Ok, my bad, mine are 1/2". Someone told me they were 7/16.
 
Forgive me for being a little confused, I guess I need to get a current NHRA rule book but if someone that has one could clear up a couple of specific questions for me I would be obliged.
Are M/T street legal drag radials considered slicks by NHRA?
What makes the long studs an NHRA rule book requirement? Just slicks? Or slicks and/or M/Ts?
If yes, Is the use of slicks or M/T drag radials the only reason that you would have to or isn't there a certain ET time limit also?
I'm still not sure of what type of lug nut engagement the wheels I'll end up with will be, but I do understand that the length of thread engagement should be longer than the dia. which is usually true for a stock lug nut and stud used with a steel wheel. So I'm lead to think that if you use a wide hub alloy wheel you just need to use nuts that will let the studs come out so they can be seen or a non-cap type nut.?
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I have long 1/2 inch studs with Cragars, they look tough with Cragars and an open face lugnut.

You can install them on the car. Beat the old ones out with a BFH (easy), slide the new one through the back, take a half inch drive socket you don't care much about, turn it so the mounting face is out and pull it through with an old lug nut. 100 ft lbs should draw them in flush. Alot of people don't like to pull them in with the lugnuts but the instructions with the studs say its ok to do and I've had no problems. Mine are 2.5 inch long Milodons if I remember correctly, I'm not sure if the longer studs will fit in through the back.
 
Street radials are not slicks. Long studs would be for the wheels. Have open ended lugs and make sure the studs go all the way out. Just pull the axles to replace the studs. Piece of cake with 8.75.
 
I have the long studs on my car very easy to install and my wheels are Keystone Klassics with open end lug nuts
 
IMO, pull or better yet press the long and correct size knurl studs in. Use the open end lugs designed for the depth of your wheel hub. Use the heavier (thicker) washers as the thin ones will damage the holes. Make sure you re-torque the lugs several times after driving a few miles.
 
Daytonakid,

The NHRA rulebook states that the lug stud must extend into the HEX portion of the lug nut at least the distance of the diameter of the stud. So, if you have 1/2" diameter lug stud, it must extend into the HEX portion of the lug nut by at least 1/2", if you have a 7/16" lug stud, it must project into the HEX portion of the lug nut by at least 7/16".

On the Cragar wheels the OP mentioned, and especially on really thick wheels like Weld Racing Drag Stars, long studs are required for the stud to extend into the HEX portion of the lug nut.

I HIGHLY recommend removing the axle and pressing the studs into place. Trying to install a lug stud by pulling it through the flange will result in fatiguing the lug stud by exceeding the tensile strength of the material, thus leaving them prone to thread failure and stud breakage.
 
Daytonakid,

The NHRA rulebook states that the lug stud must extend into the HEX portion of the lug nut at least the distance of the diameter of the stud.
On every car that goes down the track?., no matter what the ET?., Or just the ones with slicks?

I understand how to make my stud and nut set-up right, for safety, NHRA, my own peace of mind, etc., and I will.
Just trying to find out exactly "who" the rule is for.
 
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