Rear wheel stud

[Gilach]

here's a couple of pixs.

 

[oldbee]

Looks like an 8-3/4. So my pic will work. Now when setting up end play it would best to rent a magnetic dial indicator to set per the instructions previously posted. I have done it by feel a couple times but you need to have the "feel" for it. I'd rather not get into that because , well I'm OLD and don't wanna screw you up.

 

[moparnation74]

I have original R and L wheel studs with perfect threads....No one carries correct looking right hand thread and Frank Badalson has correct left hand thread available....If you want new right hand thread napa has them just bring an old one in the store.

 

[Gilach]

yah, that's what i did moparnation...the measured both old and new with a micrometer thingy ma bob. they matched Knurl sizing, but they are not tapered as per the originals. see attached. and i think that's why they are not going on.

 

[69L48Z27]

I just did this today, replaced my lefts with RH thread. I did a disc upgrade on the front and didn't want to have one wheel with LH threads.

Finding studs was simple, RockAuto. I had to buy 10 but they're right. I gentley used used a BFH and drift to get the old ones out while on the car. Wanted to save them.

To install the new ones I used a air chisel with blunt tool in it. Pretty simple.

Remove the 5 nuts and pull the axle out. Reverse process, no setup required or checking end play assuming it's okay to begin with. The end play adjuster is on the right side anyway.

Edit - if your looking for LH studs then I have no idea where to get them. Mopar nation has a good source it sounds like.

 

[dan juhasz]

You can but you don't have to pull out the axle to install wheel studs. Mopar makes many differ knurled sizes you probably have a .651 or .673 diameter knurl. You need to borrow a caliper to make an accurate measurement. Once you get the proper stud, I use old clutch pilot bearings but you can use washers stacked. Lube the threads and just keep tightening the lug until it pulls the stud flush. Turn the lug around use the flat side against the washers. They go in tight, it supposed to.

 

[NJRR]

What about a c clamp and "press" it in from the back? Is there enough room to get the c-clamp in?

 

[Gilach]

I just checked Rock Auto, for my year and model it's giving me a .671 Knurl. Let me head over to Napa tomorrow morning and ensure i have the right knurl size, i think they provided my with a .651, but i'll double check with them before yanking out the hub.

 

[Gilach]

ah, C-clamp....good idea....let me check to see if that works. thanks for all your suggestions guys. update to follow.

 

[NJRR]

ah, C-clamp....good idea....let me check to see if that works. thanks for all your suggestions guys. update to follow.

If there's not enough room with the shoes and springs in there, might be worthwhile to remove all that to get the space. Probably easier than pulling the axle.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

If you have the correct size replacement it should pull through with some thick washers used as spacers, lug nut (turned backwards if regular type) then tighten with impact wrench. Has always worked for me.

 

[khryslerkid]

If you have the correct size replacement it should pull through with some thick washers used as spacers, lug nut (turned backwards if regular type) then tighten with impact wrench. Has always worked for me.

^^ This ^^

 

[moparnation74]

If you have the correct size replacement it should pull through with some thick washers used as spacers, lug nut (turned backwards if regular type) then tighten with impact wrench. Has always worked for me.

EXACTLY.....Work simple and smart...not the latter, lol

 

[Gilach]

Good news, bad news.

Well the good news is that i managed to get the lugs in using lube, washers and elbow grease. Thanks all for your help.

Bad news is that the wheel arch just touches the tire when lowered!!!! the passenger side has at least 1/2 room to spare, although i was definitely planning on getting the wheel arch rolled to just to ensure there will be extra enough room.
I'm assuming that the rear-end is not 100% centered....any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. i took a few pixs of the driver side-tire that has less room, hopefully they will show the story.

best, Paul.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

To rectify your issue, a new set of spring perches are in order for you to square the rear.

 

[NJRR]

Good news, bad news.

Well the good news is that i managed to get the lugs in using lube, washers and elbow grease. Thanks all for your help.

Bad news is that the wheel arch just touches the tire when lowered!!!! the passenger side has at least 1/2 room to spare, although i was definitely planning on getting the wheel arch rolled to just to ensure there will be extra enough room.
I'm assuming that the rear-end is not 100% centered....any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. i took a few pixs of the driver side-tire that has less room, hopefully they will show the story.

best, Paul.

View attachment 426068 View attachment 426069 View attachment 426070

What technique did u finally use on the lugs? Washers, lug nut reversed?

 

[Gilach]

Spring perches....let me check into those...would they change the height in anyway? hoping they would not elevate.

For the studs, i oiled them and then used a stack of washers and standard nut. i tried using my impact tool, but my arms proved stronger using a pipe on the end of the socket wrench to increase torque

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I know they make a several reinforced perches.When I twisted mine,I had a stock set in stock so I used them and reinforced the rear side of the perch.
Be mindfull that you may have stretched the studs.I would check them at 10 & 50 miles of driving.ESPECIALLY with aluminum wheels!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Those perches aren't going anywhere!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Those perches aren't going anywhere!

Over 800 ft lbs and they are fine!