• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Reasons why newer cars suck a$$...

I asked my wife on Friday if she wanted to trade the Enclave in on Friday, after hearing the initial repair estimate. She doesn't drive a whole lot; maybe 6K miles per year, if that. I drive my Passat about 11K per year. Figuring a replacement used car in the $10K-$15K range may well have pricey problems of its own, and she likes her Buick a lot, we figured we'd be better off fixing a paid-for car and roll until 200K. That's three more years. The AC blows cold and the heater will toast you very well. Runs good, gets 22 mpg, doesn't smoke or leak.
 
I've always driven simple, older stuff: In 2001 I finally upgraded from my 71 D100 to an 89 Ram 2500. I shuddered when I upgraded to my 17 year old 05 Ram. It's been reliable (love the Hemi) but is also the last of its kind: Rubber floormats, crank windows, and no infotainment system. I don't need a spaceship to get to the brewery or hardware store, so I may regress to a restored 70's-early 80's Ram when the time comes for my next (last?) truck. I do not want a rolling computer with power everything.

The spouse's vehicle on the other hand, is always newer and gets replaced every 120-150k miles. The most work I do on it is remind her to get it serviced. It's one of the few luxuries I have allowed myself for being a moderate success in life.
 
The fluid being pumped helps keep the pump cool. Modern fuel pumps that operate at pressures in the 30–70psi range run hot. You shouldn't run less than a quarter tank of fuel for that reason

That's what I told my mother - I even filled her tank up and said - "Look , it's full now. Just put in what you normally put in and keep it full." Did no good at all, the tank is still regularly at less than a 1/4.

Most people don't even know the tanks have to be kept above 1/4 now. TBH they don't even know what a fuel pump is until they get a bill for replacing one. Then they cry. Then someone in their lives who is responsible has to pick up their mess.

One thing I love about my small block Charger, I can easily get to the fuel pump. And the pump is cheap. I understand there were reasons to switch to fuel injection, and reasons to put the fuel pump in the gas tank; but there are also reasons to not put the fuel pump in the gas tank and on the whole I'm in favor of not putting the fuel pump in the gas tank. My computer CPUs get hot too, but I don't cool them by putting them in a gas tank. They get a big heat sink with a fan on it. How much manufacturing expense would that add to a vehicle? Less than it cost me to have a mechanic change a fuel pump? I think a heat sink would cost about a 1/10th of what the mechanic cost, so let's do that instead.
 
That's what I told my mother - I even filled her tank up and said - "Look , it's full now. Just put in what you normally put in and keep it full." Did no good at all, the tank is still regularly at less than a 1/4.

Most people don't even know the tanks have to be kept above 1/4 now. TBH they don't even know what a fuel pump is until they get a bill for replacing one. Then they cry. Then someone in their lives who is responsible has to pick up their mess.

One thing I love about my small block Charger, I can easily get to the fuel pump. And the pump is cheap. I understand there were reasons to switch to fuel injection, and reasons to put the fuel pump in the gas tank; but there are also reasons to not put the fuel pump in the gas tank and on the whole I'm in favor of not putting the fuel pump in the gas tank. My computer CPUs get hot too, but I don't cool them by putting them in a gas tank. They get a big heat sink with a fan on it. How much manufacturing expense would that add to a vehicle? Less than it cost me to have a mechanic change a fuel pump? I think a heat sink would cost about a 1/10th of what the mechanic cost, so let's do that instead.
I've had a few ram trucks, on one a valve on the top of the fuel tank, I believe it's a vapor line to the canaster, it went bad. It took months to figure it out, it was only a problem after you filled it up, took a while to figure that part out. It would die sometimes at a stop sign when the truck was at an idle. I took it to a shop, they thought it was the idle sensor, replace. A few weeks later, it started again. This time I took it to the dealer, they couldn't find it. Took it home, filled it up on the way home and parked it. It did it again and this time I took it to the dealer and told them to keep it till they figured it out. One of the techs was using it to go back and forth to work for a few weeks. I get a phone call and he asked me if I noticed it happening after I filled it up. I thought about for a few minutes and said I believe so. The valve was bad and if you ran the truck 3/4 full or less it didn't happen. Gas was going into line and filling the canaster and it would cause it to die. It would start back up, but, that's not right. Now the valve was bad and cost next to nothing, but it's molded on the tank, part of it. I had to buy a new fuel tank. Talk about a lousy design. I only drive Chrysler and I've had many of them. Chrysler was a joke when it came to transmissions for many years, they were bad and they knew it. Bought a new one in 97, first year extended cab, second generation. Transmission started acting up after 12000 miles, they fixed it and I sold it. Got a 98, first year extended cab door opened. Took it and my boat to the lake for the weekend. Monday morning I woke up and the truck had oil under it, this truck had less than 6000 miles on it. Dropped it off at the dealer on the way to work. Got a phone call and was told it blew a rear main and a head casket. They fixed it, built a lake house, dragged my boat their, put it on a hoist and that was the end of that. By 1999 the transmission was acting up, they fixed it and I sold it and bought a 2000 Dakota sport quad cab, 360, 4x4, first year quad cab. I later bought a 2002 ram and two, 2004 rams, one straight cab and the other a four door. I kept the Dakota for ten years and was pressured into selling it to a friends kid, he'd been hounding me for awhile and kept the 2004 four door till I moved, two houses ago, three years ago. They were extra vehicles and sat most of the time. I really miss both of them and the Dakota was my favorite all time truck!! My wife can't drive due to her vision, so I sold her Grand Cherokee, I've owned 5 jeeps. I'm done now and only own my Durango and my 65. Went to diner yesterday and drove by my dealer and said something about a new vehicle, she just looked at me and that was all I needed to drop the subject. I was kidding, she knew it and we both started laughing. I will not own this Durango in 5 years, won't need the third row. I'll think about what to buy when the time comes.
 
Try whipping a set of brake pads on the rear. Hold on! Now you have to back out the EPB (electronic parking brake) wtf.
 
I've had a few ram trucks, on one a valve on the top of the fuel tank, I believe it's a vapor line to the canaster, it went bad. It took months to figure it out, it was only a problem after you filled it up, took a while to figure that part out. It would die sometimes at a stop sign when the truck was at an idle. I took it to a shop, they thought it was the idle sensor, replace. A few weeks later, it started again. This time I took it to the dealer, they couldn't find it. Took it home, filled it up on the way home and parked it. It did it again and this time I took it to the dealer and told them to keep it till they figured it out. One of the techs was using it to go back and forth to work for a few weeks. I get a phone call and he asked me if I noticed it happening after I filled it up. I thought about for a few minutes and said I believe so. The valve was bad and if you ran the truck 3/4 full or less it didn't happen. Gas was going into line and filling the canaster and it would cause it to die. It would start back up, but, that's not right. Now the valve was bad and cost next to nothing, but it's molded on the tank, part of it. I had to buy a new fuel tank. Talk about a lousy design. I only drive Chrysler and I've had many of them. Chrysler was a joke when it came to transmissions for many years, they were bad and they knew it. Bought a new one in 97, first year extended cab, second generation. Transmission started acting up after 12000 miles, they fixed it and I sold it. Got a 98, first year extended cab door opened. Took it and my boat to the lake for the weekend. Monday morning I woke up and the truck had oil under it, this truck had less than 6000 miles on it. Dropped it off at the dealer on the way to work. Got a phone call and was told it blew a rear main and a head casket. They fixed it, built a lake house, dragged my boat their, put it on a hoist and that was the end of that. By 1999 the transmission was acting up, they fixed it and I sold it and bought a 2000 Dakota sport quad cab, 360, 4x4, first year quad cab. I later bought a 2002 ram and two, 2004 rams, one straight cab and the other a four door. I kept the Dakota for ten years and was pressured into selling it to a friends kid, he'd been hounding me for awhile and kept the 2004 four door till I moved, two houses ago, three years ago. They were extra vehicles and sat most of the time. I really miss both of them and the Dakota was my favorite all time truck!! My wife can't drive due to her vision, so I sold her Grand Cherokee, I've owned 5 jeeps. I'm done now and only own my Durango and my 65. Went to diner yesterday and drove by my dealer and said something about a new vehicle, she just looked at me and that was all I needed to drop the subject. I was kidding, she knew it and we both started laughing. I will not own this Durango in 5 years, won't need the third row. I'll think about what to buy when the time comes.
I can't think of anything I'd want these days! Don't need all that electronic crap.....
 
That's not going to get any better. I bought the warrantee for that very reason.
 
I can't think of anything I'd want these days! Don't need all that electronic crap.....
I have a friend that doesn't like any diesel dodge trucks newer than 06, something to do with something on it he doesn't believes needs to be there.
 
I have a friend that doesn't like any diesel dodge trucks newer than 06, something to do with something on it he doesn't believes needs to be there.
2007 and newer Diesel vehicles of all brands have to have the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF), a urea-based liquid. Smells like cat piss, because that is essentially what it is. My Passat requires it. And the price of a 2-1/2 gallon jug of that shi# doubled in the past eight months - from $12.75 to $25.25. That's $10.00/gallon! Fortunately, a jug of that lasts me over six months. My DEF tank is five gallons, and I put in a full jug in every eight months. You never want to run that dry! Doing so causes a great deal of damage. My car will not start if the level is one liter or less, as designed.

We pick the Buick up today. Should be fun. Sure, it will!
 
Reason #420:. Some engineers need to be shot. My wife has a very nice '08 Buick Enclave with 182K miles on it. I took it in for an oil change after I washed and gassed the car. I'd noticed the temp gauge was creeping up from 210° where it sits normally. Pointed that out to the mechanic, he'd check it out after the oil/filter change and wheel rotation...

The water pump is tits-up, as are both formed heater hoses (which are originals) were bulged and required replacing. Total is just over two grand. Yeah. Two thousand dollars! What in the left-handed **** is up with that?

I looked up both the hours and procedure for both. Holy $hit! I watched several YT videos and decided I was not gonna jack with it. The engineers who designed this need to be castrated, drawn and quartered, then set afire. WTF are they thinking? The heater hoses are a serious pita to access, and I don't have those tools. The water pump involves lifting the engine a bit,, turning the wheel full right (or removing the RF wheel/tire), and removing the right headlight assembly.

Screw that!

I called back and negotiated a final price. They wanted $2400! I negotiated down to two thousand. Their labor rate is $152.25 per hour. *******. Crazy!

I'm done with newer cars.
GM is one of the worst as far as quality and if i'm being honest a lot of Chryslers modern day fleet aren't much better.
 
Yeah new cars suck, especially the 700hp, 20mpg, heated/cool leather seats and steering wheel cars. Who wants all that power, and drivability
:rofl:
Not me to the tune of 70 plus thousand dollars.......I think when I take a piss in the morning my dick and balls are still intact so i'm perfectly fine driving REAL MUSCLE CARS DESIGNED AND BUILT BY MEN!!!
 
GM is one of the worst as far as quality and if i'm being honest a lot of Chryslers modern day fleet aren't much better.

I wished I had kept my '04 Dakota Quad Cab. V-6 auto 4x2. Bought with 193K, sold with 215K. Damned good truck.
 
I have a friend that doesn't like any diesel dodge trucks newer than 06, something to do with something on it he doesn't believes needs to be there.

2007 and newer Diesel vehicles of all brands have to have the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF), a urea-based liquid. Smells like cat piss, because that is essentially what it is. My Passat requires it. And the price of a 2-1/2 gallon jug of that shi# doubled in the past eight months - from $12.75 to $25.25. That's $10.00/gallon! Fortunately, a jug of that lasts me over six months. My DEF tank is five gallons, and I put in a full jug in every eight months. You never want to run that dry! Doing so causes a great deal of damage. My car will not start if the level is one liter or less, as designed.
Yup.....I'll never own a newer diesel either just because of that DEF crap.
 
Not me to the tune of 70 plus thousand dollars.......I think when I take a piss in the morning my dick and balls are still intact so i'm perfectly fine driving REAL MUSCLE CARS DESIGNED AND BUILT BY MEN!!!
What does one of those muscle cars cost to own now. 70 thousand..............
 
What does one of those muscle cars cost to own now. 70 thousand..............
A few very important differences.....number 1 the real muscle cars were built by men and the modern day junk are gov't built commie vehicles, secondly it would be fairly rare to lose money on a genuine real muscle car whereas you will almost certainly lose money on most if not all modern day cars over time.
 
Not me to the tune of 70 plus thousand dollars.......I think when I take a piss in the morning my dick and balls are still intact so i'm perfectly fine driving REAL MUSCLE CARS DESIGNED AND BUILT BY MEN!!!
I’m not saying I like new cars, I’m just pointing that out.
 
real muscle cars were built by men and the modern day junk are gov't built commie vehicles
You've been in the sun to long, you wouldn't know a fact if it bit you in the ***.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top