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Recommended headers for a 440 in a 71-74 b body?

Orange71SE

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I've heard that a 440Ci +long tubes can be a pita, but is it really? I want to throw some long tubes on my 440 before I drop it in my 71 charger and I will throw in a mini starter. So is it hard to make headers fit because if all it takes is a little love tapping at the tubes, im not afraid to pull out the sledgehammer.
 
As far as I know, they don't make "shorty headers" for big block Chryslers. Yes, they are a PIA to install. You are MUCH better off laying headers in the engine bay, dropping the engine in & then bolting up the headers.

Another big tip I can give you is to heat/remove the exhaust studs from your heads & use "header bolts" instead. You will thank me later when installing the headers. Note - On big blocks, I believe that both end exhaust manifold studs on the heads go into cooling passages so you have to use silicone sealer on the end header bolts on each head.

I learned this stuff the hard way. On my motor, I have header bolts in all four end exhaust manifold stud holes & I had to hack-saw off about 1/2" of all the rest of the studs or the headers wouldn't bolt up.
 
The way I see it, the problem with (and why I won't buy them) Dougs D452 is the 2" primaries and 3.5" collector.
Unless the engine is spinning big RPM's has an intake/carb and heads that support big flow and a convertor and gears to match, you are going to turn the car into a slug.

Id be looking at a set with 1.75" or 1 7/8" primaries and a 3" collector. If the combo is "mild", your probably better off with Hi-PO manifolds and a good h-pipe exhaust.
 
440 headers can range from $199 to over $1000.There are lots that can be recommended . Got a budget ? If not call TTI talk to Mike or Sam and tell them what you got.I'm sure they can help.
 
D452s fit like a glove and I have them on all rb blocked b and e bodies. From mild magnum motors to six barrel to trickflow headed 512s.

With the primaries and collectors the power you are giving up because they are "too big" is marginal o a street car.

Hell more people giving up "power" because they don't know how to tune a carb and curve a distributor, rather than too big of a header.

Nonsense.
 
Hedman makes shorty 440 headers # 78073 $473.99 (Jegs)So does Schumacher for around $800
 
I have Headman shorties on my 72 Satellite 440. Tons of room.
Hooker Comps fit like crap.
Hooker Super comps fit good as do Headmans.
I've used several sets of TTI headers but only for Hemi and not BB.
 
D452s fit like a glove and I have them on all rb blocked b and e bodies. From mild magnum motors to six barrel to trickflow headed 512s.

With the primaries and collectors the power you are giving up because they are "too big" is marginal o a street car.

Hell more people giving up "power" because they don't know how to tune a carb and curve a distributor, rather than too big of a header.

Nonsense.
Yep!
Doug's doesn't list anything smaller than a 2" primary for a RB. They do list a smaller primary for the B block (451) and you'll notice the orientation of the tubes are different than the RB header.

Must be a reason :rolleyes:
 
I'm just here to help a guy out. Putting an ill fitting piece of **** header on your car because it's cheaper or you might lose 7 foot pounds of torque bedaus the primaries are 1/8 inch too big around is nonsense
 
There is more to a header than chassis fitment and price.
Nobody said to put a "piece of ****" header on the OP's car. In fact, a properly built header and exhaust will, no doubt, cost him more than the 650 bucks a Dougs d452 will.
If you want to believe that a "one size fits all" approach to header primary diameter and collector size is the right way to go, have at it.
 
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I fuss about my Hedman's on the 440 all the time (not the shorties, these are the "full size" ones). Just had to wrestle them again this last weekend while installing the latest 440 - but I finally got wise and took a sledge to the #5 primary that insists on being all over the starter.

To be fair, all the less than high dollar headers do the same thing, though and the Hedman's are probably a fair value for the money, annoying as they are with spark plug replacement and such.

I saw the video that Roadkill Garage did on the effects of denting headers on power recently and it gave me the courage to wail on the header this time and the install went a lot easier as a result.
Why the garden variety header manufacturers can't do a better job with that particular issue is beyond me.

Has anyone tried the Schumacher tri-y headers? They look like they'd fit like a dream?

BTW Yes, a mini-starter (or in my case, a Dakota starter) is mandatory with these.
 
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One thing I've learned over the years is the LL rule for headers, which is anyone you ask who says long-tube headers were an easy fit is either lucky or lying. I've heard all sorts of amazing tales of how this brand or that brand practically installed themselves, then I try to install them and all the issues come up. Then when I challenge the guy who told me he had no problems the story changes to "oh yeah... I had that problem too." :)

I finally smarted up and went with Hedman 78070 shorty headers. Even these will offer some difficulties, but not nearly as many as long tubes will. You will need a mini-starter. Also, the passenger side will go in easy, but you will need to get a hammer and bang on the driver's side tubes to get clearance for the power steering gear if your car is so equipped.

78070.JPG


Also, if your engine still has the stock exhaust, it probably uses studs and nuts to hold it on, which is the preferred method but getting the headers past the studs is about impossible so the studs have to be removed. To do this you need a propane torch and a stud remover (I got one at Sears). Use the torch to get that stud red hot and then use the stud remover. If you try this without the torch, there's a good chance the stud will break. Some come out like butter without the torch, and some snap, so error on the side of caution.

Also, if you buy painted headers, the paint will burn off and the headers will rust through over time. Don't waste your money on buying special high-temp header paint as that burns off too - as I learned the hard way. :(
 
There is more to a header than chassis fitment and price.
Nobody said to put a "piece of ****" header on the OP's car. In fact, a properly built header and exhaust will, no doubt, cost him more than the 650 bucks a Dougs d452 will.
If you want to believe that a "one size fits all" approach to header primary diameter and collector size is the right way to go, have at it.
Dropping over $500 on a pair of headers may make sense if you're a professional drag racer who needs every HP they can get, but it makes zero sense for the guy with a driver who just wants 15% more power vice 16.752% more. :) For the average guy, a pair of "cheap" headers is the better buy.
 
moparedtn, I have run the Schmacher tri-y on 2 different big block cars. A 65 Belvedere with a 451 B and a 500 inch RB 72 GTX.Yes they were both street cars. They are small 1 5/8 tubes,fit like a dream,sound good and I'm sure they give up some power.Only draw back is the price,,over $800 for the creamic coated.I still have one more pair for a up coming project.
 
Exactly why I said the OP may be better off with manifolds.
Dropping over $500 on a pair of headers may make sense if you're a professional drag racer who needs every HP they can get, but it makes zero sense for the guy with a driver who just wants 15% more power vice 16.752% more. :) For the average guy, a pair of "cheap" headers is the better buy.
 
moparedtn, I have run the Schmacher tri-y on 2 different big block cars. A 65 Belvedere with a 451 B and a 500 inch RB 72 GTX.Yes they were both street cars. They are small 1 5/8 tubes,fit like a dream,sound good and I'm sure they give up some power.Only draw back is the price,,over $800 for the creamic coated.I still have one more pair for a up coming project.
Mercy, $800! Wow.
 
Exactly why I said the OP may be better off with manifolds.
From a performance perspective you would be 100% correct. I go with headers strictly for the "cool" factor. :) Same reason why I have traction bars on my car... totally un-needed but totally cool.
 
There is more to a header than chassis fitment and price.
Nobody said to put a "piece of ****" header on the OP's car. In fact, a properly built header and exhaust will, no doubt, cost him more than the 650 bucks a Dougs d452 will.
If you want to believe that a "one size fits all" approach to header primary diameter and collector size is the right way to go, have at it.
So seems like everyone here says d452s are the way to go. Honestly I refuse to use hp manifolds. From what ive seen on countless dyno testes they do absolutely nothing. I may consider short tubes but it seem sthat they are just as pricey as the long tubes. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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