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Remove power steering / brakes??

Ugh still wrestling with the damn brakes . . Now looks like I have to change brake lines, anyone know what size lines are in a 73 charger 1/4 or 3/16 ? Also I was drum in the rear
 
What components are needed to swap from ps/pb to manuel? Do I need a different steering box or can I just take the part stuff out? Besides a master cylinder what else is needed to remove pb ?
I traded my ps setup for a manual setup with a guy restoring a convertible 66 satellite. I always felt that mopar power steering always felt a little soft when driving. I like to feel the road a little more when I'm driving. Just my opinion. If you decide to swap you have to swap the column and gear box together.
 
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Ugh, so my car has 1/4" brake line in... So begins replacing everything with 3/16". I actually bought this copper/nickel line that was more than twice as expensive as standard but you can bend it by hand. Also never supposed to rust/rot
 
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haha oh brake systems.

I started with just wanting to add a line lock which lead to changing out the proportioning valve which then lead to making new brake lines in the front, which then turned into a new master. Then after many many attempts at flaring the ends I had to have a shop do it for me. Took 3 weekends to redo like 3 brake lines... it sucked.

The rear brake lines and wheel cylinders took about half a day and came out real nice.
 
And the saga continues.. finally went around the block yesterday and it's making a dragging / grinding noise. Jacked up the front and it spins freely, going to try the rear today. . . Also doesn't stop as well as I expected it to
 
Brake shoes and rotors need to be properly bedded, should be instructions in your kit somewhere
 
Found out what it was, the rear calipers are hitting the inside of the wheel. Either gonna put washers or get rear wheel spacers
IMG_20170528_130554177_HDR.jpg
 
Found out what it was, the rear calipers are hitting the inside of the wheel. Either gonna put washers or get rear wheel spacersView attachment 428658
Get a high quality spacer, no washers. Billet specialties makes a nice spacer for about 30 bucks from summit. May need to go with the 3" wheels studs if you don't have them already
 
I actually didnt want to push the wheel out any further so as painful as it was I took a mini sawzall to the calipers lol . All is good now .... Still alittle under whelmed with the braking performance, maybe I had my expectations set to high but I was expecting corvette z06 stopping power . The manuel brakes are surprisingly not to much different in terms of pedal pressure than the power I had
Get a high quality spacer, no washers. Billet specialties makes a nice spacer for about 30 bucks from summit. May need to go with the 3" wheels studs if you don't have them already
 
Where I cut about a quarter inch block out
IMG_20170528_143938097_HDR.jpg
 
I actually didnt want to push the wheel out any further so as painful as it was I took a mini sawzall to the calipers lol . All is good now .... Still alittle under whelmed with the braking performance, maybe I had my expectations set to high but I was expecting corvette z06 stopping power . The manuel brakes are surprisingly not to much different in terms of pedal pressure than the power I had
They're good brakes, but corvette or any other modern sports car is setting the bar a bit high them cars have 14" rotors with 6 piston calipers, there's a reason the brembo kits are $5,000+
 
Thanks, that's actually the before picture. Next time I have a wheel off I'll snap a picture of them cut. Those are my thoughts exactly I really didn't want to run spacers at .my only concern is the placement of the master cylinder rod on the brake arm. Aerospace wanted me to drill a new hole at 1.62", I used to existing hole at 2". Not sure how much if any stoping power I lost.
Looks better than I thought it would, me personally I would have done anything not to run spacers on my drive wheels
 
The new master cylinder actually cleaned up the engine bay way better
IMG_20170530_202640910.jpg
 
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