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Removed timing cover now advice needed

Purepony

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So the oil pan leak continues. Drove 5 miles all good. Drove 20 and car started leaking again everywhere. This time I’m taking a different approach.
I bought a new oil pan made in Taiwan from classic industries.
bought a thick rubber gasket from mancini

I’m removing the timing cover and also replacing that gasket and seal
While there my friends noticed the oil slinger is missing and recommends I add one and replace the timing chain

the timing chain appears okay maybe a quarter of an inch in slack

what do you guys think ?

the timing cover is also pitted so I’m tempted to replace with a new one

see pics

do you recommend I replace the chain ? add the slinger ?
new cover ?
I just want the leak to stop so if it’s better to replace the timing cover with a new one I’d rather do that

help guiding me. First big block 383 ans I just want the leak to stop

thanks all
 
Slinger
Flatten bolt holes/cover replace as needed
If its a reg-perf stocker- chain will be fine (new always better)
Seal of course
Thin layer of black RTV in all the proper places (not tub+shower install)
Check+clean /resurface balancer seal surface
 
The chain looks okay to me.
You should be able to sandblast and paint the cover.
I'd put a new seal on it.
Lightly sand the balancer snout with 400-600 grit paper to create a crosshatch like on your cylinder walls.
A little oil on the new seal and balancer when you install it.
Tighten the cover bolts just a little with a nut driver and turn the crank aonce or twice before tighten them to the recommended spec.
 
Slinger
Flatten bolt holes/cover replace as needed
If its a reg-perf stocker- chain will be fine (new always better)
Seal of course
Thin layer of black RTV in all the proper places (not tub+shower install)
Check+clean /resurface balancer seal surface
Thank you for the input
I don’t know what chain is in there I just see it’s a double roller and the seal looks to be in good shape so I’m guessing it’s ok to leave
 
The chain looks okay to me.
You should be able to sandblast and paint the cover.
I'd put a new seal on it.
Lightly sand the balancer snout with 400-600 grit paper to create a crosshatch like on your cylinder walls.
A little oil on the new seal and balancer when you install it.
Tighten the cover bolts just a little with a nut driver and turn the crank aonce or twice before tighten them to the recommended spec.
I don’t have a sandblasted but some bolt holes are thinned out
I think a new cover is gonna help
 
How can I verify that ?


well, first check for suction at the pcv valve; which should not be an issue unless the valve is plugged up or stuck.

if that checks out, you should also have suction into the engine (fresh air) at the breather cap.

a non-functioning pvc system and/or excessive engine blow by (puffing out of the breather cap) can lead to bad oil leaks
 
well, first check for suction at the pcv valve; which should not be an issue unless the valve is plugged up or stuck.

if that checks out, you should also have suction into the engine (fresh air) at the breather cap.

a non-functioning pvc system and/or excessive engine blow by (puffing out of the breather cap) can lead to bad oil leaks
instaling new breather and pcv
Would that be good enough ?
 
Replace that crank seal while the cover is off! Cover looks fine to me, flatten out any dimples and a New gasket should seal it....chain slack isn't bad at all, I've installed new cheap chain sets that had more slop than that! Are you putting RTV in the correct locations? Basically any and all parting lines( rear main/block....timing cover/block)..
 
That cover looks like they all do. And where is this new cover from? China? I’d use that stock cover again. Since you have a unknown leak then get a slinger and put on a new seal. The dowels locate the timing cover.

Does your balancer have a groove worn in the snout where the seal rides on it?
 
1) You need the oil slinger to keep the oil off of the front seal.
2) A new seal comes with the Fel-pro TCS124602 set; USE it!
3) All SB/BB double roller timing sets (maybe even single rollers too) seem loose, even when new. You could try a -0.005 or -0.010" set, but a tighter chain set will be an OEM link style
4) The correct way to measure the chain play is to measure the amount of crank travel before the cam gear turns. Per the manual, anything over 1/8" is excessive.
5) Timing cover will be fine. Clean and repaint it.
 
Is that a crack on the base of the timing chain cover? Make sure there are no burrs on the outside of the vibration dampener, they can cut the seal on your timing chain cover. As said put a little oil on the inside of the vibration dampener snout and a little grease on the outside of it where is goes through the seal. The slinger goes on so it covers the seal like a cup facing out.
 
You need the repair sleeve for that balancer. It looks scored from what I see
 
So you had no oil slinger and the balancer ate up the timing cover oil seal. Safe to say you were leaking oil.
 
Is that a crack on the base of the timing chain cover? Make sure there are no burrs on the outside of the vibration dampener, they can cut the seal on your timing chain cover. As said put a little oil on the inside of the vibration dampener snout and a little grease on the outside of it where is goes through the seal. The slinger goes on so it covers the seal like a cup facing out.
You need the repair sleeve for that balancer. It looks scored from what I see
heres a better pick

I cleaned it up a bit and it looks straight maybe this will show better
E9BEA651-2B67-4AAE-B437-D01038D4FDA9.jpeg
 
Still looks bad. It needs to be completely smooth no step at where the seal rides
 
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