Removing oil pan question

[Marco Perez]

Hi guys I need help in removing an oil pan to put on a new gasket on a 1964 chrysler newport 361 5.9l v8 .. I've never done this any thing helps.. is it simple ? And how much transmission fluid do I need to re fill it up..

Thanks

 

[Kern Dog]

Two things:
1) Is this the engine oil pan or the transmission pan?
2) Please don't ever refer to a classic engine in Metric Liter numbers!
We call a 361 a 361. Personally, I only refer to the Liter size to young kids that have no idea what cubic inches are.

 

[Marco Perez]

Two things:
1) Is this the engine oil pan or the transmission pan?
2) Please don't ever refer to a classic engine in Metric Liter numbers!
We call a 361 a 361. Personally, I only refer to the Liter size to young kids that have no idea what cubic inches are.

O I meant oil pan and I'm replacing the gasket as well... but I also plan on doing the tyranny gasket next which I'm also wondering how much tyranny fluid I need... but first the oil pan and gasket... so is removing the pan and replacing gasket fairly simple ?

 

[Kern Dog]

O I meant oil pan and I'm replacing the gasket as well... but I also plan on doing the tyranny gasket next which I'm also wondering how much tyranny fluid I need... but first the oil pan and gasket... so is removing the pan and replacing gasket fairly simple ?

Being a proud American, I am completely against Tyranny in any form. People should be free to live their lives as long as they do no harm to others.
Most NON performance Big Block engines had a 4 quart oil pan. Add one more quart if you're changing the filter.
Most 727 transmissions take 4-5 quarts to refill if you remove the pan. If the torque converter is drained, that is another 3 quarts.
Regarding the oil pan.....be sure to research and learn what you can about making them seal well. Many experienced builders still get leaks despite good gaskets and sealant. The fault lies in the design.....it wasn't until the 90s before the American manufacturers really started caring about stopping oil leaks. BY then, the Big Block engine was LONG out of production.

Removal often requires partial removal of the steering center link to get the clearance to lower the pan. You'll need a 3/8" ratchet, a 1/2" hex socket and probably a 1/2" box end wrench for the 4 bolts at the front of the pan if it is too close to the K member to fit the ratchet and socket in there.

 

[Marco Perez]

Thanks for your help kern dog,

 

[65PlymSatellite]

Being a proud American, I am completely against Tyranny in any form. People should be free to live their lives as long as they do no harm to others.
Most NON performance Big Block engines had a 4 quart oil pan. Add one more quart if you're changing the filter.
Most 727 transmissions take 4-5 quarts to refill if you remove the pan. If the torque converter is drained, that is another 3 quarts.
Regarding the oil pan.....be sure to research and learn what you can about making them seal well. Many experienced builders still get leaks despite good gaskets and sealant. The fault lies in the design.....it wasn't until the 90s before the American manufacturers really started caring about stopping oil leaks. BY then, the Big Block engine was LONG out of production.

Removal often requires partial removal of the steering center link to get the clearance to lower the pan. You'll need a 3/8" ratchet, a 1/2" hex socket and probably a 1/2" box end wrench for the 4 bolts at the front of the pan if it is too close to the K member to fit the ratchet and socket in there.

Down with tyranny! Especially so close to the 4th!

Awesome advice @Kern Dog

 

[Kern Dog]

This is my 6 quart Milodon pan.

You can see that the pan can't move forward or back because the engine crossmember (Known as a K member) blocks the front and the transmission flywheel blocks the rear.

The steering link has to move to allow the pan to come out. You can do this without lifting the engine but you'll have to disconnect the center link at the Pitman arm and the Idler arm. From there, the linkage just lowers away and allows plenty of room. The oil pan then should be tilted down at the rear and then rearward away from the engine. You may need to wiggle it side to side a little.
Consider cleaning all the bolts thoroughly then adding blue Locktite compound to them. Do NOT overtighten! This can distort the gasket and make leaks even worse.

 

[Marco Perez]

Being a proud American, I am completely against Tyranny in any form. People should be free to live their lives as long as they do no harm to others.
Most NON performance Big Block engines had a 4 quart oil pan. Add one more quart if you're changing the filter.
Most 727 transmissions take 4-5 quarts to refill if you remove the pan. If the torque converter is drained, that is another 3 quarts.
Regarding the oil pan.....be sure to research and learn what you can about making them seal well. Many experienced builders still get leaks despite good gaskets and sealant. The fault lies in the design.....it wasn't until the 90s before the American manufacturers really started caring about stopping oil leaks. BY then, the Big Block engine was LONG out of production.

Removal often requires partial removal of the steering center link to get the clearance to lower the pan. You'll need a 3/8" ratchet, a 1/2" hex socket and probably a 1/2" box end wrench for the 4 bolts at the front of the pan if it is too close to the K member to fit the ratchet and socket in there.

How do you remove the steering center link? Or is there a thread explaining that? And do you have a sealant you recommend ?

 

[Marco Perez]

This is my 6 quart Milodon pan.
View attachment 1307993



You can see that the pan can't move forward or back because the engine crossmember (Known as a K member) blocks the front and the transmission flywheel blocks the rear.

View attachment 1307998

The steering link has to move to allow the pan to come out. You can do this without lifting the engine but you'll have to disconnect the center link at the Pitman arm and the Idler arm. From there, the linkage just lowers away and allows plenty of room. The oil pan then should be tilted down at the rear and then rearward away from the engine. You may need to wiggle it side to side a little.
Consider cleaning all the bolts thoroughly then adding blue Locktite compound to them. Do NOT overtighten! This can distort the gasket and make leaks even worse.

This where I remove center link?

 

[Kern Dog]

The red circled spot is the Pitman arm. That is one. The Idler arm is on the right side. It needs to come loose too.
Some just remove the cotter pin and 3/4" nut, then wedge a "Pickle Fork" in between the center link and Pitman-Idler arm.

This works but often destroys the grease boot. A "Gear Puller" also works.

Regarding the gaskets....Everyone has an opinion and what worked for Willie may have leaked on Leon. I've tried a few different brands and still deal with leaks. I am going to try "Superformance" gaskets next.
On the 383 in my other Charger, I just used Fel Pro gaskets and this sealant:

It is not cheap but it is the best that I have used. The 383 barely leaks anywhere. The engine from my red car does a bit though. I'm working on that though.

 

[Marco Perez]

What are the grease boots called for the arms if I take it apart I might as well replace it right..

 

[Kern Dog]

They can be called Tie rod seals, grease boots, probably something else but that is what I have called them.

These guys call them dust boots?

Energy Suspension 9.13101G Energy Suspension Tie Rod End Dust Boots | Summit Racing

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I agree with KD because I just did this job on my back in the drive way last week.

 

[Marco Perez]

The red circled spot is the Pitman arm. That is one. The Idler arm is on the right side. It needs to come loose too.
Some just remove the cotter pin and 3/4" nut, then wedge a "Pickle Fork" in between the center link and Pitman-Idler arm.
View attachment 1308003

This works but often destroys the grease boot. A "Gear Puller" also works.


View attachment 1308004
Regarding the gaskets....Everyone has an opinion and what worked for Willie may have leaked on Leon. I've tried a few different brands and still deal with leaks. I am going to try "Superformance" gaskets next.
On the 383 in my other Charger, I just used Fel Pro gaskets and this sealant:

View attachment 1308005

It is not cheap but it is the best that I have used. The 383 barely leaks anywhere. The engine from my red car does a bit though. I'm working on that though.

So with the sealant do u put gasket on pan and bead on top of gasket or do u bead both sides of gasket? N u recommend some blue lock tight for bolts?

 

[bearman]

Nice job kd getting him to understand the steps and techniques to get it done.

 

[AR67GTX]

I just pulled mine last week and used the puller in Kern Dogs post 10 above on the idler and pitman arm. I usually tighten the puller some, strike the bolt head with a hammer, tighten a little mor and they usually pop off pretty quick. The grease seal on my idler was torn and I got a replacement from Detroit Muscle Technology.

If you are fighting an oil leak I’ll pass along a suggestion I unfortunately didn’t follow which was to first wash the engine and put some dye in the oil to more closely identify the leak. I thought mine was from the pan but unfortunately it appears to be more from the rear main seal retainer and the side seals. i would still have to remove the pan but I would have been a bit more prepared and had the parts on hand instead of now ordered.

 

[Marco Perez]

Thank you guys for the great advice I'm a newbie at this.. but I can't wait to get into it.. for now I think I'll just do an oil change, I just got the car and I'll monitor the leak some more, now is the transmission pan easier to get too? I believe it's the 727. I know it leaks quit a bit from there...

And in regards to degreasing under the car do u just spray degreaser and hose off?

 

[RTSE470]

Thank you guys for the great advice I'm a newbie at this.. but I can't wait to get into it.. for now I think I'll just do an oil change, I just got the car and I'll monitor the leak some more, now is the transmission pan easier to get too? I believe it's the 727. I know it leaks quit a bit from there...

And in regards to degreasing under the car do u just spray degreaser and hose off?

The Trans pan is a much easier undertaking. Before I take on a job like this I go to the closest Quarter ($0.25) Car Wash (the one with the do it yourself spray wands) with some old school car ramps. It is best to do this at night as most owners / operators will not allow you to use ramps to get at the underside of your car. Use your favorite brand of degreaser, spray it on liberally and head to the car wash. Their high pressure wands with engine degreaser helps clean all the oil leak and wnd spray off so you can spot the leaks exact location easier. If you have a nice driveway you definately want to put down some drop cloths or scrap wood as the tranny will drip from multiple points on the valve body (even though I am way old now I still hear my Dad yelling at me about his driveway and my vehicles).

 

[bobfake]

Being a proud American, I am completely against Tyranny in any form. People should be free to live their lives as long as they do no harm to others.
Most NON performance Big Block engines had a 4 quart oil pan. Add one more quart if you're changing the filter.
Most 727 transmissions take 4-5 quarts to refill if you remove the pan. If the torque converter is drained, that is another 3 quarts.
Regarding the oil pan.....be sure to research and learn what you can about making them seal well. Many experienced builders still get leaks despite good gaskets and sealant. The fault lies in the design.....it wasn't until the 90s before the American manufacturers really started caring about stopping oil leaks. BY then, the Big Block engine was LONG out of production.

Removal often requires partial removal of the steering center link to get the clearance to lower the pan. You'll need a 3/8" ratchet, a 1/2" hex socket and probably a 1/2" box end wrench for the 4 bolts at the front of the pan if it is too close to the K member to fit the ratchet and socket in there.

Thanks for this!! I was just looking to see if there were any "magic" techniques for getting to the front oil pan bolts...Doesn't look like it.
Bob