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Replacing Factory Disc Brakes on 1969 Charger

Tyron68

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I recently acquired a 1969 charger SE, 383 car with factory front disc brakes. On my 68 I used Wilwood for everything, but I am not wanting to spend that kind of money on this car. Any suggestions on a good rotor/caliper brand that is more economical but still a good quality product? I am upgrading from 14" to 15" wheels on this car. Also, what do I need to verify to confirm I am buying something that is compatible with what's there now?

Disc pic.jpg
 
Wildwoods might be cheaper, cost of rotors and calipers on those$#$. Might want to switch to later mopar Disc's. Sell the parts.
 
I converted a 69 Charger a few years back from the factory Bendix set to the late model Volare stuff. it was a 100% bolt on
 
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66-69 b-bodys have Bendix disc brakes, not cheap to find parts.

Convert to 70's single piston brakes is the most economical way to fix them.

Sell those to a restorer.
 
Make sure you keep your Bendix dual diaphragm booster. It is top dog in boosters. There is nothing better!
 
Dr Diff kit is the best for the money.
 
Find a copy of Mopar Action's "disc-o-tech" disc conversion. You won't find a more economical swap than that. And it uses ALL Mopar parts !! Article can be found online.
 
Find a copy of Mopar Action's "disc-o-tech" disc conversion. You won't find a more economical swap than that. And it uses ALL Mopar parts !! Article can be found online.
If you want the large 11.75 rotors, the caliper bracket are expensive. I took a picture of the two brackets and sent the picture to a junkyard in MI. Noted the ones I wanted, I had called them they said they had them. This was 2002 but might work still.
ddisco.JPG
 
Guys thanks for the feedback.
Make sure you keep your Bendix dual diaphragm booster. It is top dog in boosters. There is nothing better!
Lemondana, so replacing the master cylinder is ok but keep the booster correct?
 
Also, I had cut all of the brake lines that tie into the proportioning valve as the lines were rusted on the valve and wouldn't back out. I am sure there is a stock replacement, but do you guys have any recommendations on a good proportioning valve?
 
Here's a very stock looking Dr Diff kit with an upgrade to 11.75 rotors that will fit in 15" rims. Not much more $$ than the 10.75 rotor kit.

All wear and replacement parts found available at common parts stores.

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Guys thanks for the feedback.

Lemondana, so replacing the master cylinder is ok but keep the booster correct?
I would have the master cylinder rebuilt, if I could find a good place. And by all means keep your booster and have it rebuilt-it won't be cheap but will be the best. and mark it somehow and document to make sure you get your booster back. You will be happier than if you buy that Chinese junk. I always rebuild what I have rather than buy new unless you can find NOS. Just my opinion.
 
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