Replacing Torsion bars and lower control arms

[Rick]

In the process of replacing Upper control arms, Tie rods and converting to front disc brakes.

How critical is it to replace the torsion bars and lower control arms? 66 satellite was a 318 and now a 383. Only street use.
No front sway bar and I will eventually repalce the rear springs.
Looks like it can be a real pain and expensive. You think it worth the effort??

 

[smb03]

i would...small block torsions have to be preloaded alot to hold the added weight, without a sway bar it will be like turning a boat with all that sway

 

[Cranky]

What does the 383 have on it vs the teen? Aluminum heads, intake, headers, aluminum water pump and housing etc?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I would look into a sway bar before I worried about the springs. But I would also want to do the lower control arm bushings as well,since you are doing the uppers, so that would mean taking the bars out anyway. Its up to you

 

[Rick]

Its a 1969 383 and pretty stock. No AC

 

[slepr1]

If you can spare the money now you'll be thankful later you upgraded. Poly bushings are a nice upgrade as well. I'm not trying to spend your money but these upgrades will make a world of difference.

 

[Cranky]

Its a 1969 383 and pretty stock. No AC

I assume you are replacing the poly head teen? I did nearly the exact same thing many years ago. The poly head engine isn't that much lighter than the 383 but my car had AC on it and I left that off so it acted pretty much the same as it did with the teen plus I had an aluminum intake on the 83. I still have a 66 Belvedere and lowered it and added as much camber as I could to the alignment (it was noticeable looking at it...think cop cars) and with 15x7 cop car wheels and radial tires it surprised me with the way it handled. The front end was 1" off the stops and the rear was lowered about 1 1/2" with no sway bars. Now if you run lousy roads or have a deeper than stock pan, forget lowering it much if at all and go with the heavier springs and bars but even then, I like bigger bars and softer springs for a smooth straight ride that still handles real well in the turns.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Why are you replacing the uppers?? If your not carving the corners and have a tight budget,just check and replace the bushings as needed. My junk started life as a /6 and now my engine must weigh close to 900 lbs with all stock arms and /6 bars. Also,I don't turn too hard with big & littles with a spool:blob1:

 

[Rick]

The uppers were shot and the upper ball joint was welded in place so it couldnt be removed.



Sway bars sound like a good idea. Are they aftermarket brackets or kits that allow them to directly attach to a lower control arm that currently dont have them.

- - - Updated - - -

Looks like the stock torsion bars are 0.88 for both a 8 cycle and also HD with a sway bar. I guess the stock torsion bar would work if I added a sway bar.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

That was a regular cure when the BJ would not tighten up all the way.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,LOL

 

[Rick]

Looks like they took an air chisle to it too. Ha Ha

 

[miller]

I'd hit the junk yard, and find another pair. Their out there if you look, and that will fix that problem.
Doing my conversion, gathered up parts and pieces. On my lower arms, didn't have the socket for the ball joints, so took 'em to some 'mopar savvy' guys. After those monkeys finished their hammer work, got to the house, put a big hole in the garage wall (when I threw the arm), went and found another. Lol, practice makes perfect! Also got a socket.

Do it right, and be done with it.

 

[PST]

We have brand new arms with ball joints and bushings installed ready to bolt in if you are interested. As well as new torsion bars. I would suggest going with the 1.03 diameter. They are priced right and handle great.

Control Arms
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.10004/.f?sc=12

Torsion Bars
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.6907/.f?sc=12


Thanks
James

 

[d fark]

We have brand new arms with ball joints and bushings installed ready to bolt in if you are interested. As well as new torsion bars. I would suggest going with the 1.03 diameter. They are priced right and handle great.

Control Arms
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.10004/.f?sc=12

Torsion Bars
http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.6907/.f?sc=12


Thanks
James

Hey James do you have torsion bars for a 73 Satellite? It takes the 43" bars. I'd like to go with 1.00" bars

 

[Rick]

Hi James

I ordered the UCA from PST last week and they should be in anytime. My thread was about the benefit of replacing the LCA and torsion bars.

 

[Rick]

will the Lower control arms and front sway bar assembly for 67 68 69 B BODY CHARGER CORONET RT fit on a 66 satellite??

 

[WileE]

On our torsion-bar suspensions, the load is on the LOWER control arm. So, the lower ball joints will always wear faster, along with the bushings. On a worn suspension, I would absolutely replace the LCA & the lower ball joint.

 

[Rick]

Thanks WileERobby the more I get into it the bigger the project gets. What do you think about the suggestion of putting in a bigger torsion bar and leaving out the sway bar.

 

[WileE]

I'd recommend both. Larger t-bar and sway bar. But, you can always add later, after you replace the worn parts first & foremost.

 

[PST]

Hey James do you have torsion bars for a 73 Satellite? It takes the 43" bars. I'd like to go with 1.00" bars

Sorry but we do not for the 73 models, only through 72.

Thanks
James