Retro Stereos

[JR_Charger]

There was never a true stereo rear speaker configuration from the factory. Speaker level signals are not susceptible to induced noise, run speaker wiring wherever you want. Line level signals/cabling should be routed away from any heavy loaded power cables to prevent induced noise.

What are line level signals/cabling?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

That screw and u-nut does not belong there, that is where the radio support stud goes. There are no green ground wires originally. See the picture I posted above, post #14.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

What are line level signals/cabling?

Amplifier inputs and related cabling. Shielded cabling typically terminated with RCA or “phono” connectors. Some high end head-units will have pre-amp outputs only requiring an external amp.

 

[JR_Charger]

That screw and u-nut does not belong there, that is where the radio support stud goes. There are no green ground wires originally. See the picture I posted above, post #14.

The picture you posted earlier doesn't have the notch in the end of the bracket like mine does -

What I have looks factory. I got the car with a dead AM factory radio, 30 years ago. I don't think this area had ever been touched before.

Is it possible we have different stuff because you have the performance instrument cluster and I have the base instrument cluster?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

That dash pictured is a standard dash cluster from one of my Satellites, no matter, the Rallye cluster used the same bracket. Look carefully, it is indeed notched, identical to the one you have. Again, someone added the screw and u-nut, not original.

 

[Sinitro]

Many guys on the forum, know about my multi-years of experience doing car audio installs from my multiple postings...
Several years back, while building my RR I designed a head unit mounting plate(single din) for the ralley dashes. Since 1 of the largest radio mounting plate/accessory suppliers is located in SoCal and we know the CEO very well I did take my proto-type plate for his quote. They do their own injection molding in their SoCal location, so no problem to produce but... The stumbling block was the minmum tooling/manufacturing quantity required. So we passed on the project, but I still get some frequent inquiries from the various local SoCal mopar guys.

Just my $0.02...

 

[JR_Charger]

That dash pictured is a standard dash cluster from one of my Satellites, no matter, the Rallye cluster used the same bracket. Look carefully, it is indeed notched, identical to the one you have. Again, someone added the screw and u-nut, not original.View attachment 1561652

You're right. I pulled the S-clip and I've got the same gap in my bracket as you do -

So for some reason, someone put an s-clip there and ran this green wire to it -

I assume that is for the wiper switch. Strange that it is green and not black, but anyway - if that green wire is a ground and not something else entirely, where is it supposed to go to? Over the steering column and to the ground at the top of the emergency brake lever?

 

[JR_Charger]

After reading up on speaker wire, it seems like 16 gauge should be fine to the rear. 18 would b e o.k. to the dash speaker, so why did Retrosound use 16? In case an amp is used? Would an amp have 18 as input from the head unit and 16 out (or 14 for the rear speakers?)

 

[JR_Charger]

I'm trying to work out the rear speaker wire routing. Anyone manage to do a clean job of this? I found a convenient hole to run the wire in from the trunk -

I don't know what goes there, but I don't have it.

There are no wire retainers on this side of the rear seat area. I don't like having the wires flopping around, but I don't see an easy way to secure them.

I don't see any obvious way to secure the speaker wires to the side of the passenger footwell and under the passenger side of the dash. I can see a crappy way (zip tie to the antenna cable) but nothing I'm happy with.

 

[Photon440]

I'm trying to work out the rear speaker wire routing. Anyone manage to do a clean job of this? I found a convenient hole to run the wire in from the trunk -

View attachment 1562458

I don't know what goes there, but I don't have it.

There are no wire retainers on this side of the rear seat area. I don't like having the wires flopping around, but I don't see an easy way to secure them.

I don't see any obvious way to secure the speaker wires to the side of the passenger footwell and under the passenger side of the dash. I can see a crappy way (zip tie to the antenna cable) but nothing I'm happy with.

If your paint is clean (so it will stick) you can put down adhesive Velcro strips. Just lay down a strip, place wires across it, and put the second piece on top to secure.
www.amazon.ca/EOTW-Adhesive-Reusable-Mounting-Removable/dp/B07C8BKMLL/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=OZG9QV2P4PX7&keywords=adhesive%2Bvelcro&qid=1700840484&sprefix=adhesive%2Bvelcro%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[JR_Charger]

Where do these parts go -

Where did you guys hook up the power and ignition wires for the head unit?

Does anyone else have the retrosound subwoofer? Did you have to drill a hole in the firewall to pass the power cable through? Where did you mount the subwoofer? I was going to slide mine under the front bench, but I came across a comment that the foam soaks up the bass too much. It doesn't seem like there's enough foam in the bench to dampen the bass sound, but what do I know?

I'd also rather not drill any holes in the car to mount the subwoofer, but it's surprisingly heavy. I think it would slide around easily.

 

[JR_Charger]

I ran the power cable for the sub through the new speedometer cable grommet, which didn't shrink down to it's original size after I pushed the new speedometer cable through it.

I thought I'd run the ground for the subwoofer to the negative cable ground on the radiator support, but the ground wire wasn't long enough to go that far. It looks like it's going to have to go to the ground by the hood release, along with ground wires from about 4 other things. How many ground wires can go to one spot?

 

[BigFlo]

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/author/tony/

You might find a lot of helpful information here and in his books.

 

[JR_Charger]

I ran the yellow wire to the batt terminal on the fuse block, and the red wire to a yellow plug over the radio. Ground went to the ground screw over the hood release. I've now got 6 ground wires going to that one screw. I have no idea whether that breaks the rules or not, but it seems like a bad idea. I'm searching around for good info and it appears the internet can not agree on whether one screw can have two grounds to it or not. Like I said, it seems like a bad idea but then again they all have electrical paths to each other through the frame. Is there any difference if you have one ground wire on a screw here and another ground wire on a screw over there?

The factory radio has orange, red, green, and black wires on it. I assume the black wire in the corresponding plug under the dash goes to ground? I could at least run the head unit ground to the factory ground wire. If the factory red wire is the same as the head unit red wire (gives the radio power when the key is in the run (or acc?) position, maybe it would be better to route the head unit red there. I don't know if either green or orange are the equivalent of the yellow (constant power) wire.

With everything set up as it currently is, the head unit powers up. Or perhaps I should say "boots up." It doesn't turn on instantly.

Once on, the screen cycles through the available colors. I haven't been able to get the radio to do anything else. The on-off button is the only thing that works, but maybe I'm overlooking something.

 

[Jc cooper]

http://[URL]https://taymanelectrical.com/

[/URL]

Talk to this guy, I think he'll work with you to design what you need.

Yes , contact Clay Taymon , on my 67 Gtx , tried the retro sound radio , but didn’t like its installation, sent my original am radio to him, and his conversion work was impeccable, purchased speakers also from him , the only was to go to maintain a clean stock appearance!

 

[JR_Charger]

Yes , contact Clay Taymon , on my 67 Gtx , tried the retro sound radio , but didn’t like its installation, sent my original am radio to him, and his conversion work was impeccable, purchased speakers also from him , the only was to go to maintain a clean stock appearance!

I have no experience with the rebuilt factory head unit, but about the Retrosound unit I can say that it can be fitted, but does not fit. I thought I had mine installed, but I've discovered that it is slightly too low and the outside buttons on the radio face are jammed. Gonna have to pull it out and "fit" it again.

 

[funknut]

I bought a Retrosound unit and honestly don't like it much at all. Sound quality isn't great but not terrible, but the fit and finish of the unit is pretty awful, and the bluetooth features are not the best compared to other modern units. For the price, it was an unfortunate mistake.

I'm thinking of either putting in the delete plate, or replacing it with a regular original head unit, but then leave it disconnected except maybe to turn on the dash lights.

What I plan to use instead is a hidden bluetooth unit (from an actual audio brand) that are typically sold for ATVs or marine applications. I haven't settled on one yet, but something like:

Amazon product ASIN B00IBI518Y
or

Kenwood KAC-M5024BT

I don't need AM/FM, etc. so these seem like a good option.

The Kenwood unit is a bit bigger, but still plenty of room up under the dash for it.

 

[JR_Charger]

I do like physical knobs though.

 

[JR_Charger]

What is the jack at the top for? I'm assuming the line for it plugs into the "ext aux in" cable on the head unit - but what would you use it for?

 

[Photon440]

You can try inserting a usb flash drive with music on it into that jack and seeing if it will read it.