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Ride Height vs Torsion Bar Adjustment?

wsutard

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Can anyone tell me the ratio between the torsion bar adjuster and the ride height? I need to lower the front by about an inch and my guess is that equates to something less than an inch on the adjuster. I would like to get close on my first try.

Thanks.
 
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I'm guessing between 3/4--1-1/2 turn.
 
Yes much less than an inch on the adjuster. How many turns depends on a lot of things like how much weight is up front and what thickness of bars you're running.

There's unfortunately no magic formula, you just have to see what works for you. Be sure to settle the springs after you adjust.
 
turn it down to where you want it on one side, make sure the floor is level, measure the height from the floor to the wheel lip and then do the other side the same way. Be sure you press down on the bumper with your weight on both sides a few times and remeasure the height again. Make adjustments as needed, pressing down on the bumper again to check the height
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turn it down to where you want it on one side, make sure the floor is level, measure the height from the floor to the wheel lip and then do the other side the same way. Be sure you press down on the bumper with your weight on both sides a few times and remeasure the height again. Make adjustments as needed, pressing down on the bumper again to check the height
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Unless the front tires are on slide plates pushing down on the bumper accomplishes nothing other than one getting exercise. Just push or pull it a few feet and park it back where it was. Of course the tires need to be on the floor and the suspension needs to be loaded.
 
Regardless how much you adjust up or down have the front end alignment checked.

If you want to lower the front you should look at drop spindles.
 
Regardless how much you adjust up or down have the front end alignment checked.

If you want to lower the front you should look at drop spindles.
I already had it aligned when I redid the front suspension. Do I need a new alignment if I lower it down?

It just needs to lower a tad as it's sitting a little higher than original. I thought I would live with it but decided it needs to go down.
 
Let me ask a question. Do you know what the ride height is right now ? (And I'm not referring to the bogus wheel-well measurement). Did your wheel alignment guy know what your ride height is ? Did he even know he's supposed to check ride height ?
 
I don't know what the height is now. I can measure if you let me know where at.

I set the height where I thought it was prior to changing and also liked it and then took it to a highly recommended guy at a suspension shop. He is an old school guy who is known for his work on older vehicles. Its safe to assume that he has forgotten more about these suspensions than most people know.

I went from stock torsion bars to 1.03" PST bars so I'm thinking the stiffer bars are holding it heigher than the stockers.

It doesn't need to drop much. The pic is a little hard to tell but the fender is just above the top of the wheel.

IMG_1891.JPG
 
I can't help you with the adjustment.
But that is a nice ride with that color! :thumbsup:
 
I already had it aligned when I redid the front suspension. Do I need a new alignment if I lower it down?

It just needs to lower a tad as it's sitting a little higher than original. I thought I would live with it but decided it needs to go down.
Yes definitely get it realigned. When I finished my car I had it aligned then played with the ride height (lowered it), ate the front tires in the first year. Had it realigned and replaced the tires.... 2 years later and my tires still look new.

As far as drop spindles go, is it a better option.. yes, needed.. no. Mines dropped 2", I figured I'd eventually buy spindles but honestly unless you've got terrible roads it's not needed. The biggest benefit is you gain your full travel back.
 
Tho torsion bars are your front springs. That is why the ride gets stiffer with larger bars. You tighten/loosen the spring tension when you adjust the ride height using the bars. You need a new alignment. Tell them the height you want when they are finished.
 
I just had my Road Runner aligned last weekend. I know the manager of the shop (he's into 350 Chevy street rods, but a real car guy, too). He brought in a mechanic from another store that knows Mopars just to do my alignment. This guy owns a 69 Charger and a 70 Dart with a 440 that he drag races on occasion. Seemed like a true blue mopar kind of guy and we took turns on the test drive afterwards to make sure the car drove properly.

Anyhow, my toe was 0.32 before and 0.06 after, and the left camber was -2.0 and -1.1 after, and right camber was -1.8 and -1.2 after. He set the ride height 'near' specs, and my yardstick measurement is 26 inches. The stance of the car looks good to me, and she drives great.
 
KIMG1216.jpg


This is the proper procedure to measure your ride height. I would set the vehicle to the proper ride height and then adjust from there. So you take the 2 points and subtract the difference should be 1& 5/8" plus or minus 1/8"

Thanks
James
 
The problem is that all the factory ride height measurements go out the window unless you're running stock wheels and tires...
 
I also have tubular lower control arms which I think throw the measurements out of whack as well. I am going going to leave it as is. Too much of a pain to change.
 
I've never had a problem cranking them where ever I want them.

If you go far enough that you can see a camber issue, adjust the camber cams.

If the tires don't wear funny, you're good.

BTW if you get an alignment, the first thing they do is put it at factory spec ride height.

You'll likely either do it twice or have a very long and detailed discussion, providing you can find someone who knows what they're doing.
 
Dave I'm not sure, the "angle of the dangle" should stay the same no matter what tire/wheel is used. If you drop/raise the ball joint by a lower/higher tire the torsion bar adjuster blade is going to raise/lower the same amount(?). I could be wrong(?)
 
The height is the same regardless. With bigger wheels and tires you just have to turn the screws a little bit less to get there.
 
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