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Ride Height vs Torsion Bar Adjustment?

The problem is that all the factory ride height measurements go out the window unless you're running stock wheels and tires...
Factory ride height is calculated from the difference of two dimensions to obtain a set ditance.
Tries and wheels should have no real affect wither on 14" tires or 20".
Its all geometric to suspension travel.
Also one of the reasons on rare occasions factory cars had different tire diameters from front to rear.
 
Imo, every gear head should at least know about front end geometry no matter if you do your own alignment or not. I've been doing my own using the string and level method for a lot of years after the last alignment shop did a worse job than I ever did plus, there's too many so called front end techs that are not familiar with Mopar front ends. Ever see the results from some moron that thinks you can go full circle on the A arm adjusters? It ain't pretty not to mention how hard it is to fix the damage. You can also buy a camber/caster gauge for just a bit over 100 bucks. I had always planned on buying one but never did probably because after many years of running my 66 Belvedere 1" off the stops with way more camber than factory specs, it wasn't wearing the tires, didn't wander and handled much better than it ever did using the factory specs. Here's some info....
http://lusequip.com/site/1212late/Alignment_Basics.pdf
 
Factory ride height is calculated from the difference of two dimensions to obtain a set ditance.
Tries and wheels should have no real affect wither on 14" tires or 20".
Its all geometric to suspension travel.
Also one of the reasons on rare occasions factory cars had different tire diameters from front to rear.
Bingo
 
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