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Lowered Ride Height Produced Too Much Camber

I ordered new bushings, new pivot shafts and new torsion bar adjusting bolts. I researched the QA1 LCA's and found that on a 1968 Charger, you have to buy a QA1 K frame and the QA1 front sway bar for the arms to fit! No thanks, I'll rebuild mine!
Your Belvedere looks awesome!
Thanks! It's a pos but will be fun... Heres my issue with the QA1 LCAs... your entire life is in the hands of 1 weld on them.. i'm sure they are fine but i have worked in shops and seen how much people care when they do **** that isn't theirs.. Have never heard of a factory one failing to the point of literally ripping apart.. good enough. Plus they are basically free if you ask :)

BTW.. why the new adjuster bolts?
 
Thanks! It's a pos but will be fun... Heres my issue with the QA1 LCAs... your entire life is in the hands of 1 weld on them.. i'm sure they are fine but i have worked in shops and seen how much people care when they do **** that isn't theirs.. Have never heard of a factory one failing to the point of literally ripping apart.. good enough. Plus they are basically free if you ask :)

BTW.. why the new adjuster bolts?
Just as a precaution. My factory elevator bolts work fine, but when I lowered the car to take the tension off the torsion bars, the passenger side bolt wouldn't completely unscrew, so it's still in the LCA. Probably be okay to reuse, but I found some new ones on evilBay and bought them. I'll make a decision to use on old ones or replace them when I get everything back together.
 
Just as a precaution. My factory elevator bolts work fine, but when I lowered the car to take the tension off the torsion bars, the passenger side bolt wouldn't completely unscrew, so it's still in the LCA. Probably be okay to reuse, but I found some new ones on evilBay and bought them. I'll make a decision to use on old ones or replace them when I get everything back together.
Ah cool.. and yeah they get crust on the upper threads.. clean and lube em and it should come out
 
I've recently rebuilt my whole front end of my 70 B-body and with parts from P-S-T and Firm Feel. I found that my LCA's were a little sloppy so I cut them apart, tightened them up and welded reinforcement plates which I got from Firm Feel, but you can get them from a lot of places. It's easy to do if you have a welder or know a welder. Or Firm Feel can do them for you.
So if you still have the LCA's off the car it's worth looking into.
Good luck with your project

PS. Attached is a photo of mine with sway bar tabs mocked up.

LCAs with SBTs.jpg
 
I've recently rebuilt my whole front end of my 70 B-body and with parts from P-S-T and Firm Feel. I found that my LCA's were a little sloppy so I cut them apart, tightened them up and welded reinforcement plates which I got from Firm Feel, but you can get them from a lot of places. It's easy to do if you have a welder or know a welder. Or Firm Feel can do them for you.
So if you still have the LCA's off the car it's worth looking into.
Good luck with your project

PS. Attached is a photo of mine with sway bar tabs mocked up.

View attachment 1743807
Thank you for the info! I've got a welder and will check into those reinforcing plates. Those LCA's turned out fantastic. Did you powder coat those?
 
Thank you for the info! I've got a welder and will check into those reinforcing plates. Those LCA's turned out fantastic. Did you powder coat those?
Thanks! and I did powder coat them. I hesitate to say that because I know they didn't come that way, but I'm not restoring a 1970 Belvedere, I'm building a Superbird to race. But for all the Mopar purist out there, rest assured, I still have the factory air in the tires!
 
Thanks! and I did powder coat them. I hesitate to say that because I know they didn't come that way, but I'm not restoring a 1970 Belvedere, I'm building a Superbird to race. But for all the Mopar purist out there, rest assured, I still have the factory air in the tires!
Awesome!!
 
Update: I removed both LCA's and found the bushings in the worst condition possible. The driver side didn't have a rubber bushing left, it was just the metal sleeve over the pivot pin. To make things worse, the pivot tube had broken free from the K frame and it fell out when I removed the LCA. (see pictures). I was able to install the new pivot shaft and line up and re-weld the tube onto the K frame. It worked out good. I ended up buying a 12 ton press from HF to install the metal cups, polyurethane bushings and pivot shafts. I saw a guy on YouTube able to use a hard plastic hammer to install his bushings and pivot pins, that wasn't even close to being an option for me, I had to use the press on everything. Anyways, got it all together and it fixed my alignment issues, the front-end geometry is now correct, and the drivability is excellent. I drove down the road over the manhole cover again and the car didn't even flinch. I still have to fine tune the front-end alignment, but I'm very happy. One other thing: I decided not to use the lock nuts on the pivot shafts. I opted for grade 8 nuts and with a lock-washer. It's so much easier torquing those down without the shaft spinning and breaking out the pipe wrench (IYKYK). Thank you all for your input! I really enjoy this site.


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