RO 23 Hood scoop

[thebankerstoy]

Thank you very much and your 66 will also look awesome with the RO23 style scoop, because I don't think that there is a better looking scoop made than this one for 66-67 B-Body cars.

If your interested, I could show you pictures of the parts I used to seal the carb to the underside of my hood, as it was pretty simple and workss out very well to feed fresh air directly to my carb.

Richard

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Thanks for sharing your carb sealing tech...lots of stuff available for our later model B bodies, your setup looks very functional and OEM! It will be a while before I am to this state but helps me in the design phase...very nice. And I agree, for our body style the ro23 is the best looking and most OE appearing. Keeps the nice classic performance look while give us some fresh air! BTW, what did you make the outer gasket from?

 

[thebankerstoy]

The base-plate is a fiberglass reproduction single 4 barrel version of the E-Body Shaker unit that I bought from Year One back in 1991. They still sell this part under part # GC100 and here's a link to Year One's on-line catalog.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1

The hood to base-plate seal is mounted to the base-plase by using 3 inch long pieces of aluminum "L" angle stock that has the pre-drilled holes in it. It was carefully bolted to the base-plate with stainless bolts, nuts and fender style flat washers on both the top side and under side of the base-plate so that I wouldn't over stress the fiberglass when I mounted the angle stock to it. Lock washers were also installed on the underside between the flat washers and the nuts. All of the hardware and the aluminum "L" angle stock were purchased at the Home Depot

The hood to base-plate seal is made by the Armstrong company and is called Armaflex self seal pipe insulation. It was originally made to insulate home air conditioning pipes and is made to fit 3/4 inch copper pipe, or 1/2 inch iron pipe. It has a 7/8 inch diameter and a 1/2 inch wall thickness and is made out of a heavy duty foam. It is split down the middle to alow you to wrap it around the pipe and has a very sticky adhesive material on each side of the split to hold it in place after you instal it. In my application, I stuck it to both sides of the aluminum angle "L" bracket and where there is no angle stock, I stuck it to itself. This product was also purchased at the Home Depot in 6 foot pieces. This product has a long lifespan, as I installed the original piece on the car in 1991 and didn't have to change it until 2006

I'm running a 1969 HP 440 in my Coronet with an original style Edelbrock Torker single plane intake manifold, along with a thick carb to intake manifold gasket and a Holley 750 carb, topped off by the Shaker base-plate and a custom billet air cleaner lid and a 14 inch diameter by 3 inch tall air filter. This set up fits perfectly under my stock steel donor hood and my WO 23 hood scoop. :grin:

Richard

 

[1badstroker]

pretty cool, nice job! Looks like it works well and looks good also. thanks for the info.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Yes, thanks alot, I appreciate the detail and the pictures, great job...

 

[thebankerstoy]

Thanks very much guy's. It works well for me and it's also a very light weight set-up with the fiberglass, aluminum and foam materials. If your running an intake manifold that sits lower than my Torker does, you could just use different material for the foam seal mounts to adjust for your needed heigth to the underside of your hood.

Richard

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Bankerstoy, have you had the Coronet down the 1/4 mile? How do you find the Torker for streetability? I realize its not a radical single plane, more I am curious about its performance. I am thinking about an RPM Performer for the BB I am assembling but recall on an earlier (much earlier) 440 I had with a Weiand single plane having pretty good success and performance. What other things have you done to your 440? Your car is along the lines of where I would like my car to be as an end result.
Thanks!

 

[69 Runner]

I ran a Torker on a 383 for a long time. No problems. Should be fine on a 440, since they don't lack bottom end anyway.

 

[thebankerstoy]

I had my car set up to run in the NHRA Division 7 "Street Legal Class" while I was running the car in what was originally called the Firestone TNN E.T. Racing Tournament which then became the Sears Craftsman E.T. Racing Series. The fastest you could run in this class when I was racing was 12.99 and my car ran from 12.99 to mid 13's depending on who I was running. ;) It is a VERY mild, but well built engine, along with a very well built transmission that has given me ZERO problems since they were installed back in 1991. :grin: The car has great throttle responce but has a REALLY lousy vacuum out put at idle, which has caused me problems with the power brakes and the A/C system before I removed the A/C for racing. I have installed one of the Master Power Brakes vacuum pumps to try and solve this problem, but have not driven the car with it in place much yet, so I can't tell you for sure it my problem is solved yet.

The main points of my drivetrain include a modified 1969 HP block with matching steel crank, main caps and a set of preped standard length rods, 9.7 to 1 compression ratio, TRW forged pistons, Seal Power rings Mopar Performance .484 - .284 flat tappet camshaft, chrome rockershafts with Mopar Performance stamped steel six pack rocker arms and push rods, 452 cast heads with Mopar Performance standard size intake and exhaust valves, Hemi spec valve springs, Mopar Performance locks and keepers, the original style Torker single plane intake manifold, a custom built 750 Holley 3310 carb and a set of 1969 hp Mopar cast exhaust manifolds dumping the spent gases into a custom built 3" exhaust system that dumps in front of the rear axle assembly and a set of hp mufflers. All of the car's fuel lines have been upgraded from the original 5/16" lines to 3/8" lines and I run a hi-performance Mopar Performance mechanical fuel pump with a Fram HP-1 canister style fuel filter back by the new reproduction fuel tank.

The transmission is a full manually shifted Torqueflite 727 with a reverse shift patten manual valve body and a B&M Quicksilver console mounted shifter with a Hurst Line-Loc unit attached to the "T" shifter handle.

The rear end is the car's original 8.75 housing that has had the original 2.76 non Sure-Grip center chunk replaced with a Sure-Grip unit and a set of 3.91 gears with the original axles. The drivers side left hand thread wheel studs have been converted to right hand thread studs and the original 1966 single line power front drum brakes have been converted to a Master Power Brakes dual line power disc brake set-up with 11" drilled and slotted rotors.

WAY MORE information than you wanted, but hope it helps you out.

Richard

 

[69 Runner]

You want to solve your vacuum problem, change that cam to Bob K's blueprinted six pack cam. It WILL run faster than that, and give you 18-19" vacuum at idle

 

[thebankerstoy]

You want to solve your vacuum problem, change that cam to Bob K's blueprinted six pack cam. It WILL run faster than that, and give you 18-19" vacuum at idle

:confused:, more information please? I don't race anymore, so I'm not worried about going faster, but I'm very interested in getting 18-19" of vacuum at idle to run my brakes and new A/C system that will be going back in the car soon.

Richard

 

[69 Runner]

I sent you a PM

 

[thebankerstoy]

I sent you a PM

Received and thank you very much!

Richard

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Thanks boys, Bankerstoy, never too much information...it is very much appreciated. I have a set of 452 castings being dressed right now and have been on the edge with a couple other decisions such as stock bore vs. a stroker kit from 440 source. With my heads being ported and flow bench tested I just may stay put with the stock bore. Not sure if the heads could keep up with 500 ci. Your notes on your build help alot coupled with input from many others on this forum. The reason I asked about your torker is I have spotted various Torkers, Torker II's, Street dominators etc on Ebay. Thanks 69runner for you input on the camshaft, that's another decision coming up shortly, which will have a bearing on the braking system...Cheers!

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

One other question for you Bankerstoy, your babies front suspension ride hieght, is that just through torsion bar adjustment? Or do you have modified upper and lower control arms/spindles...The ride height just looks mean!

 

[thebankerstoy]

One other question for you Bankerstoy, your babies front suspension ride hieght, is that just through torsion bar adjustment? Or do you have modified upper and lower control arms/spindles...The ride height just looks mean!

My 69 HP block is bored 30 over and has had all of the internal oil passage ways opened up to 1/2" Hemi specs to help improve the oil flow. I'm also running a Mopar Performance hi-flow oil pump and windage tray and a Mopar Performance 6 quart oil pan and 1/2" oil pick-up tube and screen assembly now that the car is going back on the street.

My front suspension was all rebuilt for the second time since I've owned the car, back back in 2000. I bought all new parts including poly bushings from a company called Performance Suspensions here in Phoenix AZ. http://www.performancesuspension.com/

All of the cars original upper and lower A-arms were media blasted and powder coated. All of the other new front suspension parts were also powder coated along with the K-member. Heavy duty Hemi spec torsion bars are used and a set of KYB gas filled shocks are used on all four corners. No front or rear sway bars were used as my lower front control arms do not have the sway bar mounting tabs and I didn't feel like paying for new lower A-arms to make that happen. The cars stance is a result of setting the torsion bars a bit lower than stock. The rear suspension is made up of the original 8.75 rear end and a set of the Mopar heavy duty leaf springs with added poly bushings and the KYB shocks.

Richard

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Thanks a million Richard, your car has the perfect stance. The 66' is gorgeous, your input is very much appreciated. The last picture shows just how straight she is...66's forever!
-Jeff

 

[thebankerstoy]

Thanks a million Richard, your car has the perfect stance. The 66' is gorgeous, your input is very much appreciated. The last picture shows just how straight she is...66's forever!
-Jeff

Thanks Jeff! :grin: Here's what she looked like when I bought the car in 1989. The only items that I had added at the time of these pictures in 1990 was the WO23 hood scoop, the donor hood with a crappy flat black paint job and the American Racing Champ 500 wheels and new tires. The body was rust free and in great shape except where a large truck had backed into it on the passenger side quarter panel just behind the front door while the previous owner had the car. The interior was another matter though, as you can see in the pictures. It still had ALL of the original interior parts and pieces, including the dash pad, carpet, door panels, seat covers and head liner. Man, those were some NASTY seats!!! :black_eye:

Richard

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Awesome...

 

[1badstroker]

Hello Bankerstoy, What wheel size and backspace do you have on the rear of your coronet. Thanks