Roll Bar Install Progress

[LemonWedge]

Gary, does this mean you will be ready for a trek too Boise and Nightfire in August?

If I trek to Boise this year, it will more likely be for the ET Finals, Bob. But it will be ready! It’ll be ready by end of March.

 

[LemonWedge]

Sorry I haven’t been posting updates here, but progress has been being made and today I finished this project up. I believe this was the biggest project I’ve ever taken on with this car. To me it outweighs the engine, transmission, or rear end, all of which were built by me. All in all, I’m real happy with the way it turned out. The original package tray got f’d up a little. But I’m not to bent up about it. New package trays are only $50. What I’m real happy with is how well the bar fits the car. It’s tucked up about as tight as possible. Which actually created some problems. It’s about 1-1/2” from the rear glass. It got scratched getting installed through the package tray, and I can’t get to the back of the bars to properly touch them up, so the finish at the back sides of the rear bars looks a little hack right now; and it’s right there in sight through the back window. Oh well. If it really bugs me I’ll have to pull the rear glass someday. The rest of the bar is snug to the headliner, the angle of the main hoop follows the window seam angle perfectly, and the door bar turned out real good. It’s a breeze to get in and out of.
Now I can turn my focus to under the hood and getting the top end put back together.

 

[gtxracer]

Gary, the roll bar looks great and I commend you on your efforts. Chris Alston himself, did my GTX and the biggest difference between your and mine is my side bar is higher. Also since I have no back seat, the rear bars are below the package tray. The only tech person that I know anywhere that might question the location of your side bar is Dennis, in Boise.
Bob

 

[LemonWedge]

Finally completely done. Harness is in & padding is on. I think this project is complete. The only thing left is to figure out what I’m going to do with the rear window crank handles. The knob hits the bar. I guess I just need to take the knobs off, as the arm will pass by. A little bummed out to take those apart, but small potato’s I guess.

 

[coloradodave]

Would a shorter length handle work? I found some on ebay that clear my main hoop. Just a thought. Your bar looks great!

 

[malex]

That's a beautiful job. LW! It couldn't be any nicer than that!
You're not alone when it comes to the rear crank hitting. We got to build a ratchet type crank.

 

[Mike Gaines]

In regards to head porting....my local machine shop fella is a WIZ at port work.
He brought out my INDY standard port SEZ heads to MAX WEDGE size and then ported them to about 345cfm. He cleaned up my INDY Single Plane Dominator Intake also and port matched to the heads.
With NO OTHER CHANGES I picked up almost 3/10 of a second.
Went from 10.639 to 10.362
Same track and same adjusted altitude.

 

[LemonWedge]

Would a shorter length handle work? I found some on ebay that clear my main hoop. Just a thought. Your bar looks great!

Thanks Dave. No, the main hoop is pretty much right at the crankpost. Shorter won’t accomplish anything, unfortunately.

 

[gtxracer]

Gary, the roll bar and the install of everything looks great, I commend you for your efforts. I hate to be negative and I could be wrong but you might need to have a head rest, with a roll bar, Was planning to hit the track this weekend however the snow kinda changed my mind.
Bob

 

[LemonWedge]

Gary, the roll bar and the install of everything looks great, I commend you for your efforts. I hate to be negative and I could be wrong but you might need to have a head rest, with a roll bar, Was planning to hit the track this weekend however the snow kinda changed my mind.
Bob

Ugghhh.... you’re right Bob, and thanks. I think it’s been in the back of my mind but I wasn’t sure if it was a requirement. I’ll add it to the list. Currently working on port-matching my intake and the valley pan to the new larger port windows. Man, the first pass is gonna feel good this year.

 

[gtxracer]

Ugghhh.... you’re right Bob, and thanks. I think it’s been in the back of my mind but I wasn’t sure if it was a requirement. I’ll add it to the list. Currently working on port-matching my intake and the valley pan to the new larger port windows. Man, the first pass is gonna feel good this year.

I know exactly what you mean and I'm just waiting for a nice clear day. Still in the process of getting parts together for my new engine so Ill be running the same engine from last year for awhile.
Bob

 

[malex]

Ugghhh.... you’re right Bob, and thanks. I think it’s been in the back of my mind but I wasn’t sure if it was a requirement. I’ll add it to the list. Currently working on port-matching my intake and the valley pan to the new larger port windows. Man, the first pass is gonna feel good this year.

---
LW I have my headrest bolted to the same spot that your belts are secured. Easy addition.

 

[LemonWedge]

---
LW I have my headrest bolted to the same spot that your belts are secured. Easy addition.

Can you show a picture of this setup, Malex? Thanks!

Edit: I think I have an idea that would work and look pretty good. Instead of a bolt holding the harness, I could extend a threaded rod from the bottom of a tube steel post extending straight up to mount the headrest, either static mounted or perhaps on a tube & collar to make it depth adjustable. (???)

 

[malex]

Can you show a picture of this setup, Malex? Thanks!

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LW I have one pic here, my car is up on the hoist tonight, will grab you a couple of close ups tomorrow.

I pulled the headrest out of something over at the auto wreckers. Cleaned and fab'd it into place. Unbolts with the belt bracket.

 

[malex]

Can you show a picture of this setup, Malex? Thanks!

Edit: I think I have an idea that would work and look pretty good. Instead of a bolt holding the harness, I could extend a threaded rod from the bottom of a tube steel post extending straight up to mount the headrest, either static mounted or perhaps on a tube & collar to make it depth adjustable. (???)

---
I'm sure your idea will work great LW! And no mods to the finished bar neither.

I had a look at mine today too, and I remember that my original plan was to secure my shoulder belts the same as you. I changed that. I wrapped my belts around the cross bar instead and then attached my head rest to the main bar. Some pictures.

The black belt brackets keep the belts from sliding on the cross bar.

Belts wrap around the cross bar and secured with proper belt hardware. I found that when the belts were attached together they were tight around my neck, widening them out made them more comfortable.

Bracket rests on the cross bar and 1/2" bolt holds it secure. Black brackets hold the belts from sliding on the cross bar. Those were temporary, forgot all about doing something nicer. Will be looking into that now.

Hope this helps.

 

[Budnicks]

Looks nice

it should help some too

good luck