Rookie with a Roadrunner

[Budnicks]

A few suggestions possibly, not mandatory

Some interior shots. I'm not hell bent on keeping the original dash. I don't mind upgrading and having some modern gauges that actually work. The fuel gauge and odometer are shot.

Aftermarket Gauges= Here are the ones I did for my 68 RR HT {Below, still not finished}, all Autometer, 3-3/8" tach & speedo, 2-5/8" oil press., clock, water temp., fuel level, voltage meter, in pods angled up & in, with all with custom 0.090" aluminum gauge panel... I would also suggest to buy a engine bay harness with a Electronic Ignition already wired in so it, more plug & play kind of, from M&H Harnesses exclusively sold by Year One, it helps to cleans up the engine bay a ton, also maybe go to a Holley style carburetor & K&N Xtreme airfilter & a drop base for {Holley HP, Quickfuel, ProMaxx, Proform etc.}, instead of the Edelbrock/Carter, much better carburetors to tune & have performance & drive-ability, IMHO, but biased opinion anyway, also have the vacuum advance & an electronic voltage regulator, hooked up too, instead of the analog style regulator... Depending on what gear ratio is in the rear, you may want to go a little higher gear ratio lower #'s, a 3.73:1 {or 3.55:1} is a great compromise, for performance & street driving, but still very manageable on the freeway... All easy fixes, I'm on #13 68-71 RR now, I love them, many parts from the 68's will work on the 69's also, there were minor changes, mostly cosmetic stuff, grill, taillights & surrounds, marker lites, seat marerials, minor trim, etc...

 

[oldbee]

"medic"--sorry, I don't talk to Army guys,except my neighbor, a "crew-chief"(hueys) in 'Nam!!!!Just drive the blasted thing. Thanks for your service.

 

[Basket case]

thank you for your service!
sweet looking runner.
aside from some nit pickey things, I'd drive the wheels off it.
I love the Pistol Grips, but that one is for a console, GTX tail lights, clean up the wiring, and repaint the underhood the correct color.

 

[medic11]

yeah, man, the previous owner didn't exactly turn it into a race car - just drive the thing and enjoy the hell out of it. i think it looks bad *** with those drag stars but, hell, just swap in some OEM wheels and it'll look original. I can't quite see it from the pix - does it have the factory gas tank or is there a fuel cell in the trunk? if it's a factory tank, might be a simple deal to fix the gas gauge - could be the sending unit in the tank... a bunch of other guys could shed more light on the details, but I bet it's not a huge deal. as far as odometer... that's why they have highway markers.

I'm definitely going to switch out those tires up front. Maybe 15 or 16in tires all the way around. I want to keep an original look on the body and tires/wheels. Recommend some brands and websites. Thanks.

 

[medic11]

if the previousd owner was looking to race it, do you know what rear end gears he put in it?? Depending on what kind of driving you want to do and what gears it has, you may want to change them.

No clue what's back there. How do I find out without peeling apart layers? I don't plan on ever taking this to the track, strictly street driving, occasionaly. What gears should I be using?

 

[medic11]

I'm seconding the vote for "drive like you stole it , but enjoy the **** out of it".

Thats a damn fine car. Keep an eye on the temp gauge , for a daily driver in any kind of heavy traffic you may need to update the radiator , fans and water pump to keep it cool.

Other than that, start pricing out a 528 cubic inch stroker.

Someone recommended to get an electric fan. Thoughts?
I think the radiator is original. I want to take that out and replace it with an aluminum 3 core. Recommend some brands and websites.
Recommend some water pumps.
I've noticed this engine does get hot fast. Of course the 100+ heat here in San Antonio doesn't help. Thanks.

 

[medic11]

the first thing I see....looks like the distributor and the top radiator hose are very close...like poke a hole close...not crazy about the under the hood wiring job....that is the only thing I see that would leave you on the side of the road...

Yeah, that distributor poking the hose is one of the 1st things we noticed, too.
The wiring is ancient. A mechanic I took it to can redo the whole car for about $1500-$2000. I'd like to buy a harness and do the engine bay myself if it doesn't require pulling out the engine and gutting the bay or pulling out the dash. I don't have the tools or the time. Thoughts?

 

[medic11]

I agree with everyone else, but will add the shifter is not correct. I have no problem with putting pistol grip shifters in cars that did not come with them, but that one is for a car with a center console it just looks a little off when there is no console. Really just personal preference i suppose.

Recommend any good ones? I don't plan on keeping the original interior look. Dash, steering wheel, shifter, seats are all going to go and be "updated."

 

[Basket case]

no need to pull the engine just to redo the wiring. check out Year One's site. they have all the wiring you would need. Little pricey, but cheaper than having someone else do it, and it will look factory.

 

[medic11]

Aftermarket Gauges= Here are the ones I did for my 68 RR HT {Below, still not finished}, all Autometer, 3-3/8" tach & speedo, 2-5/8" oil press., clock, water temp., fuel level, voltage meter, in pods angled up & in, with all with custom 0.090" aluminum gauge panel... I would also suggest to buy a engine bay harness with a Electronic Ignition already wired in so it, more plug & play kind of, from M&H Harnesses exclusively sold by Year One, it helps to cleans up the engine bay a ton, also maybe go to a Holley style carburetor & K&N Xtreme airfilter & a drop base for {Holley HP, Quickfuel, ProMaxx, Proform etc.}, instead of the Edelbrock/Carter, much better carburetors to tune & have performance & drive-ability, IMHO, but biased opinion anyway, also have the vacuum advance & an electronic voltage regulator, hooked up too, instead of the analog style regulator... Depending on what gear ratio is in the rear, you may want to go a little higher gear ratio lower #'s, a 3.73:1 {or 3.55:1} is a great compromise, for performance & street driving, but still very manageable on the freeway... All easy fixes, I'm on #13 68-71 RR now, I love them, many parts from the 68's will work on the 69's also, there were minor changes, mostly cosmetic stuff, grill, taillights & surrounds, marker lites, seat marerials, minor trim, etc...

Wow that's a good starting point. Thanks.
As far as the wiring harness: can this be done without taking out the engine, gutting the bay and taking out the dash? I don't have the time or tools to get in there but I like the learning experience of rewiring the car.

 

[Basket case]

no you don't need to pull the engine. pretty easy to do.
you need to pull the cluster and switch panel from the dash to get to the connectors. It can be a PIA, but just take your time. Are you leaving the dash stock, or customizing it?
If you go the custom route, save all the old parts in case you decide to sell the car later, or change your mind. Box up the old parts, and hang onto them. Or at the least list them on her for sale.

 

[ZR9B]

doesn't hardens have the harness for like half the price of year one??
I used to buy from there when I had money...before wife and kids...

http://www.hardensmcw.com/

 

[bigredbird]

I think the radiator is original. I want to take that out and replace it with an aluminum 3 core. Recommend some brands and websites.
Recommend some water pumps.
I've noticed this engine does get hot fast. Of course the 100+ heat here in San Antonio doesn't help. Thanks.

Some previous discussions to get you started:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=36432&highlight=aluminum+radiators

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=31915&highlight=aluminum+radiators

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=12406&highlight=aluminum+radiators

I have a Champion, bought through eBay. It took a 260-degree engine down to 200 and has kept it there for three years now.

 

[medic11]

doesn't hardens have the harness for like half the price of year one??
I used to buy from there when I had money...before wife and kids...

http://www.hardensmcw.com/

Not anymore. Year One has it for $100, Hardens has it for $115. :hmh:

 

[moparstuart]

Not anymore. Year One has it for $100, Hardens has it for $115. :hmh:

Hardens isnt even hardens anymore , national parts depot bought them out over a year ago

 

[Donny]

Drive this thing, don't paint the engine bay unless you're going all the way with it; and then you'll need to come visit me for the first phase(s) of a build, if you're going to paint the bay, get it blasted, but, might as well do the entire car and see just what you got, but, that will take a serious commitment to follow through. Just enjoy it now, clean the block out, like a serious flush, flush the radiator also, elec fan is a good cheap option.

 

[HT413]

Honestly, and please dont take this the wrong way as i only mean it as advice. I dont have a ton of knowledge about these cars, but i do have tons of experience with construction. One thing i see time and time again is a young couple buying thier first house and immediately tearing the place up looking to build that dream kitchen, etc. only to get in over their head. It can end in bankrupcy, divorce or certainly misery. I've seen it all. Take the advice in these forums because its good advice, but take it SLOWLY and enjoy what you have. One full day tearing that engine wiring apart can end in a year trying to piece it back together and very little fun factor, and ask yourself... What was it you bought the car for? Stay true to that answer.

 

[Basket case]

good advice. and that's why you see so many project cars sitting in a pile for 20+ years, because the owner gets overwhelmed, or real life rears it's ugly head and the money dries up.
a replacement harness is the way to go. unplug the old, plug in the nes and you're done.