Seam sealer and undercarriage body seam questions

[funknut]

I've never done any work with seam sealer before so looking for some tips and info on which way to go.

I will be replacing the full front floor pan and want to seal up interior and exterior seams as best I can. I am not super concerned about the OEM look, and I'm sure it's going to look a bit sloppy as it's my first go at this. What I'm really after is first, the best way to keep moisture out, and second, if possible a slightly idiot proof method.

I plan to epoxy prime everything before applying sealer.

First question, for exterior seams I've read of people using fiberglass reinforced body filler instead of seam sealer. I'm not sure if that's because they are going for a smooth look or if it holds up better than seam sealer. Would a modern (3M, Evercoat, Eastwood, SPI, etc.) seam sealer do well on exterior seams? Is there a significant advantage to using a fiberglass filler instead?

There seem to be lots of choices with 2K, 1K and brushable seam sealers vs. the cartridge type. The 2K stuff seems to be about double the cost and I'm not sure if there's any real advantage except that it cures faster?

Lastly, any ballpark of how much of this stuff I will need to do the entire interior cabin? Enough to seal seams, not glob it on the way the factory did. ;)

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

1. I recommend using seam sealer, not fiberglass resin as seam sealer. Body filler will crack.
2. 1k caulk gun type urethane seam sealer is what I would recommend
3. You will need about 3 tubes, maybe 4

 

[69L48Z27]

What are you using seam sealer for the exterior? Not sure what your working on but only seam sealer I can think of is the drip rail. I would use a 2K self leveling seam sealer for that. I’m not following the fiberglass instead of seam sealer.

On the inside 1K is fine IMO. Shoot all the seams with quarter inch bead and then smooth out with a brush or your finger. Apply more where needed.

 

[funknut]

Thanks for the reply. I'm replacing the floor pans and I'm still debating doing the one piece vs the individual L and R floor pans. If I do the L and R sides separately then I'll have a weld seam along the tunnel. I will butt weld them in but I'm a newbie with a welder and will want some extra insurance against pinholes. Would primer be enough or will I need some kind of sealer/filler as well?

Thanks!

 

[myfeather626]

I've never done any work with seam sealer before so looking for some tips and info on which way to go.

I will be replacing the full front floor pan and want to seal up interior and exterior seams as best I can. I am not super concerned about the OEM look, and I'm sure it's going to look a bit sloppy as it's my first go at this. What I'm really after is first, the best way to keep moisture out, and second, if possible a slightly idiot proof method.

I plan to epoxy prime everything before applying sealer.

First question, for exterior seams I've read of people using fiberglass reinforced body filler instead of seam sealer. I'm not sure if that's because they are going for a smooth look or if it holds up better than seam sealer. Would a modern (3M, Evercoat, Eastwood, SPI, etc.) seam sealer do well on exterior seams? Is there a significant advantage to using a fiberglass filler instead?

There seem to be lots of choices with 2K, 1K and brushable seam sealers vs. the cartridge type. The 2K stuff seems to be about double the cost and I'm not sure if there's any real advantage except that it cures faster?

Lastly, any ballpark of how much of this stuff I will need to do the entire interior cabin? Enough to seal seams, not glob it on the way the factory did. ;)

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

I bought a gallon of be Grey rigid seam sealer went on fine sorta looks factory when I rebuild my Challenger I am putting that stuff they use in Pick up truck Beds?

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

I would think putting the two individuals in would be a lot more work between cutting n welding.Just go with the full one piece. There will be some test fitting but the end results will be easier to seal.

 

[myfeather626]

I bought a gallon of be Grey rigid seam sealer went on fine sorta looks factory when I rebuild my Challenger I am putting that stuff they use in Pick up truck Beds?

DO NOT USE FIBERGzlASS

Thanks for the reply. I'm replacing the floor pans and I'm still debating doing the one piece vs the individual L and R floor pans. If I do the L and R sides separately then I'll have a weld seam along the tunnel. I will butt weld them in but I'm a newbie with a welder and will want some extra insurance against pinholes. Would primer be enough or will I need some kind of sealer/filler as well? Pictures pictures picture before removing Glass pictures of any Logo’s or Part Numbers or #’s on the glass write what side of the car tbe side windows cam from with a white shoe Polish! Document everything with Video and pictures!

Thanks!

If you could do a one piece floor Board, would be nice! Also replace the windows! This makes your Restoration pop! And I don’t care what anyone says New Glass Makes a Show Car! With that shiny new Paint you need to buy some Shiny new Glass in all windows over 50 years that glass has dulled! And there is no bringing it back to life. And the cool thing is the new Glass can have all the PPG Chrysler Logos and the etched Chrysler markings! Glass really made my car Pop! Oh! Do not dispose of the Original Glass. I compared the old to the new and it was exact thickness! I was really happy with the duplication and Etching of the Chrysler Logo’s! It is still made with Indiana white Sand! Comes from the shore of the Lakes! The fricken add’s are annoying! Stupid ads! Anyways the glass is still made by PPG .Another thing not to forget to tell them when you order the glass wether it’s Clear or Green glass and be sure you order the front window of your car has the front tint at the window top.My car being a “Plane Jane” had clear Glass no Air Conditioning.Otherwise it would be Green Glass! Only A/C cars got the Green Glass however I think they all got the tinted Banner across the front top Windshield. Unfortunately the glass Company charges extra for Logos! The top tinted Banner on the front window is a saftey feature.Saftey feature keeping the Sun out of your face!

 

[myfeather626]

I've never done any work with seam sealer before so looking for some tips and info on which way to go.

I will be replacing the full front floor pan and want to seal up interior and exterior seams as best I can. I am not super concerned about the OEM look, and I'm sure it's going to look a bit sloppy as it's my first go at this. What I'm really after is first, the best way to keep moisture out, and second, if possible a slightly idiot proof method.

I plan to epoxy prime everything before applying sealer.

First question, for exterior seams I've read of people using fiberglass reinforced body filler instead of seam sealer. I'm not sure if that's because they are going for a smooth look or if it holds up better than seam sealer. Would a modern (3M, Evercoat, Eastwood, SPI, etc.) seam sealer do well on exterior seams? Is there a significant advantage to using a fiberglass filler instead?

There seem to be lots of choices with 2K, 1K and brushable seam sealers vs. the cartridge type. The 2K stuff seems to be about double the cost and I'm not sure if there's any real advantage except that it cures faster?

Lastly, any ballpark of how much of this stuff I will need to do the entire interior cabin? Enough to seal seams, not glob it on the way the factory did. ;)

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

Remember to tape all the seams with Duck Tape leave on only to create a 2” space in between tape on both sides of seam remove the Duct tape before it dries you will have a nice seam once both pieces of tape are pulled up. It really works good leaving equal band of seam sealer otherwise it will look sloppy. And we don’t want that? Do we?