Septic tank outlet leak

[5.7 hemi]

New house, I mean we bought it while it was being built. It’s 1 year and 1 month old. Early this week I noticed dirt just past the riser on the outlet side was wet looking, like someone poured some water there. So I didn’t think much about it, then we got rain yesterday. All the other dirt is dry now except this 2ftx2ft area.

Grabbed the shovel and started digging. Found the outlet pipe, dug up to the septic tank. I dug 3 feet wide by 5 feet long and about 3.5 feet deep. The dirt started stinking as I got closer to the tank, and digging became harder as it was like scooping up sticky pancake batter.

I thought the pipe was cracked, after hosing it off clean, no cracks to be found…..but as I was checking for crack(s), liquid starts coming out wher the pipe goes into the tank.

Pop off the riser cover, pull filter, it’s a tad bit nasty, hose it off, put it back inside and used the hose to have water hit the seal. Sure as ****, water coming out along the pipe. So the seal is not sealing. Ughhhh! The dirt getting closer to the tank started falling into the hole I was digging, so this has been leaking, probably since day 1!

I don’t want to drain the liquid and cut the pipe to install a new seal. So I’m asking…..what could I use on the outside of the tank to seal up against the pvc pipe?

 

[Mike67]

Fiberglass tank? Do you have any kind of warranty?
All kidding aside you may try this or the tape.
They do make a hot glue for wet pvc as well but without pumping the tank it will be messy.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Call the general or septic system contractor see if he'll do anything ? Then a friendly lawyer if needed. Here in CT. you might get state to do something? May need to pump tank and seal with quick drying cement? It drys in an hour.

 

[VANDAN]

I'm not a plumber, but I've always tried my best to remedy my troubles. I'd pump the tank out, so your new seal will have some time to set. Pick up some Hydraulic cement, or there may be some newer sealing compounds to use. Clean, and prep all joining surfaces, and apply the compound. With the tank pumped out, it should give the seal, time to set. Try to hold off running excess drainage, for as long as you can. It takes a bit for the tank to refill, so you should be ok.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

Sorry to hear, that sucks

 

[dadsbee]

You call that a leak...

I couldn't get my tank low enough in bedrock at camp, so hole sawed a 4" and sealed it with roofing tar. Working fine some 15 years later..

 

[5.7 hemi]

It’s a concrete tank, probably code in Commiefornia.

I was thinking about Henry Roofing tar with the mesh screen. Says it works while wet. I’m trying not to buy a HF water pump and drain out some liquid and replace the seal. That would mean I’d have to cut the pipe and then use a pvc coupler or a rubber one.

 

[dadsbee]

Concrete tank, then I'd definitely coat the outside with strand roofing tar and call it a day.

 

[haywire 440]

Maybe start with the builder it’s his reputation and some have warranties that are longer than a year. He should contact the plumber.
The city, if you’re in one, may have some authority over this defect.
Hydraulic cement drys within minutes. It was used on storm sewer repair where water was flowing out. Wear heavy duty rubber gloves, scoop out some and plaster it in the crack or joint. Hold it there, with pressure, for a couple minutes and it cures. Grab a few more handfuls if needed.
But I’m not sure if that’s what you need. The seals will flex a bit do to ground movement.
Something else might work called mastic. Like roofing tar but better and it comes in ribbon like rolls (tootsie roll) or in spreadable cans.
Good luck

 

[5.7 hemi]

The hole in the tank is about 5 inches diameter and looks coned as it goes inward to the tank. I’m leaning towards the roofing tar from Henry and mesh screen as it still remains pliable when dry.

I did call the company twice today, left a message, never got a call back. We are “supposed” to get rain on Monday and Tuesday next week so I’ve just a couple days to fix it. Would like to get it done tomorrow and wait a day before filling the hole so I make sure it’s good to go. Also, all our paperwork given to us has nothing about the septic system. Is it Aerobic or Anaerobic ?

 

[MoparLeo]

Contact the builder and your home owners insurance company. Builders have to warrant the house for at least 7 years and have a bond to cover it. The insurance company should fix it and go after the builders bond. Do not fix it yourself unless you are qualified to do it or you will regret it down the road if you ever have a septic problem. The insurance company will wash their hands if you do. That system should last 20 years or more with proper maintenance. Be sure to only put approved waste in the system and have it pumped out regularly. A good working system 2-4 years. The septic pumping companies can give you recommendations on who does repairs in your area.

 

[Islandkent]

Going to have to agree with Wayne. Hard to beat a big bead(sh%t load) of roofing tar. Pack it to her.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Sounds like a shitty job.

 

[BB BELLA]

the leak was likely caused because the outlet pipe was not bedded properly and sunk after install putting pressure on tank seal! when your burying the pipe I would either use A gravel [mix of stone/sand} or 3/4" clear stone packed under the pipe to support it!

 

[Lefty71]

Do it right!!! You only have to drain the tank some....not all. Then mortar the space with hydraulic cement.... let it set up for a few hours, then tar the snot out of the whole area.... dont try to fill voids with tar, it wont hold

 

[Preachr]

I agree with Lefty 71 ,, right up to the point of using the tar, to me that is a no no , sounds to me that the leak is directly on the bottom side of the outlet pipe, and if you dig it out with room to spare on the underside the hydraulic cement will work just fine with a small bit of time for the cement to cure. The tar will only create a very messy job should you ever have to go there again. We do this many times,, only on the inl;et of the tank,, but still the same difference. A plumbers info.

Preachr.

 

[66Satellite47]

Sure sounds like the drain field is plugged for some reason. The volume in the tank can't get out. Sealing the pipe doesn't solve the problem.

 

[Preachr]

By sealing up the tank to be liquid tight, you will then know if you have a problem with the septic bed if the liquid becomes to high when trying to exit on the outlet pipe.
When the liquid in the tank is at it's proper height it should be at the bottom of the outlet pipe, and always stay at that point, if 5.7's liquid is below that level then the tank is letting liquid out below that point, (meaning the cement on the outlet not being addequate enough to seal it.) The outlet side of a septic tank is approx. 1" or so lower then the inlet of the tank.

 

[Ranger16]

I had the soil pipe (from the house to the tank inlet) replaced and after installing it they packed it with cement (after pumping the tank down). If the contractor or the septic installer won't help, that's the way I'd do it (cement or hydraulic cement).

P.S.
If you haven't used it before, hydraulic cement sets up VERY fast, so mix only what you need and work fast.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I assume its the outlet that's leaking? Might want to check inlet also, don't know if it matters. Ground water could be getting in, good/bad? I'd do cement and then tar.