Single stage or base coat-clear coat ?

[747mopar]

I can see both sides of the argument, clears are more prone to failure but are great if you need to buff out dirt without disturbing the flake. I've put down some really nice single stage paints that lasted years and kept their shine. If your a beginner I'd recommend base coat clear coat just for it's forgiveness. The base dries so fast that you can literally sand out a blemish in just minutes after application and go back to spraying then if you lay down some nasty orange peal or get dirt in it just throw on an extra coat of clear and buff away. I like both but had longer lasting results with single stage but always used a hardner. The trick to getting the clear to really hold is not applying to late when the base is cured and use good quality clear.

 

[Speedbird]

I drive my cars so single stage acrylic is what I've always used.
I know I can touch that up from dings.
But recently I've started spraying in whole sections anyway.
Except for the road rash behind the back tires.
The quarter panels always take a hit ,it seems.

 

[747mopar]

I drive my cars so single stage acrylic is what I've always used.
I know I can touch that up from dings.
But recently I've started spraying in whole sections anyway.
Except for the road rash behind the back tires.
The quarter panels always take a hit ,it seems.

I'll be doing that soon, my quarters are looking like hell from gravel (they chip and sealed my road).

 

[Bladecutter]

I drive my cars so single stage acrylic is what I've always used.
I know I can touch that up from dings.
But recently I've started spraying in whole sections anyway.
Except for the road rash behind the back tires.
The quarter panels always take a hit ,it seems.

Yeah, and if a panel or two get nailed & straightening is required, you can still blend in with single, then clear the entire panel to hide & protect blend lines & not have a butt match problem to adjacent panel. The only color that will show a slight difference in tone with clear over it is white. It's gotta be Clear clear too, no milk.
For insurance work, it's best route to take imo.

 

[Dennis H]

Mine will chalk up on the roof and trunk 2 times a year. Once over with the orbital keeps it at bay.

 

[RT K_line]

I have used acrylic enamel paint w/hardener on my first 2 cars I painted with excellent results. The second car was the R/T I still have and just repainted again after 12 years. This time with ss urethane. I also just did a fender replacement on our shop truck at work with bcc. It was fairly easy but I think I like the acrylic enamel the best. I didn't have to cut and buff it until it was a few years old because my dog scratched it trying to get a cat off the car. Bcc was the easiest process for me though.

 

[dieseldazzle]

All the high end opaques are single stage from what I understand...the beemers and Lexus blacks and whites....

 

[threewood]

As a guy who has sprayed single stage and base/clear in his garage.....if it is a solid color go single stage. No doubt. I find it easier to cut and buff as there is no clear to cut through which always worries me. It is easier to apply as you don't need to clean and re set up the gun for clear. And it looks more original.

 

[Bladecutter]

As a guy who has sprayed single stage and base/clear in his garage.....if it is a solid color go single stage. No doubt. I find it easier to cut and buff as there is no clear to cut through which always worries me. It is easier to apply as you don't need to clean and re set up the gun for clear. And it looks more original.

Less money, less work, less **** to go wrong, superior longevity. But, if it's a metallic color,,,, base color, clear coat is best way to go......protects metallics against premature oxidization and a much safer bet if cutting and buffing so as to not distort metallic lay out. Easier to make the metallics stand up with a base coat with flattening agents in it too.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Less money, less work, less **** to go wrong, superior longevity. But, if it's a metallic color,,,, base color, clear coat is best way to go......protects metallics against premature oxidization and a much safer bet if cutting and buffing so as to not distort metallic lay out. Easier to make the metallics stand up with a base coat with flattening agents in it too.

Do you mean that it has the flattening agents in the mix of base, or that you need to add those flattening agents? What can be done to make the clear coat natural shine so you can see the color vs. a big slab of glaring shine? ..............................MO

 

[Bladecutter]

Do you mean that it has the flattening agents in the mix of base, or that you need to add those flattening agents? What can be done to make the clear coat natural shine so you can see the color vs. a big slab of glaring shine? ..............................MO

The base coats have flattening agent in them. You could add flattening agent sparingly to clear to cut the gloss, but it might make it milky.....I've never done it, so I can't give a definitive answer...would have to experiment with that.