Six pack setup with Manual Transmission

[Daves69]

i have the same one that Dave69 shows in his picture.

It's actually a '70 auto set that I ran on my Barracuda 4spd for years. Never used the solenoid....ever.

 

[Bird 426]

Not trying to argue, but why are you calling it a fast idle solenoid? Fast idle to me is what the steps on a choke do. This is the first time I have heard the solenoid referred to as a fast idle. I have had a Sixpack for awhile. The solenoid was explained to me as an ignition keyed shut off to help avoid run on. Will take a look at my FSM to see if they mention it in that way.
Good luck with your Sixpack, once you get all of the bugoolues worked out, you will like it!

 

[440 PHIXX]

Not trying to argue, but why are you calling it a fast idle solenoid? Fast idle to me is what the steps on a choke do. This is the first time I have heard the solenoid referred to as a fast idle. I have had a Sixpack for awhile. The solenoid was explained to me as an ignition keyed shut off to help avoid run on. Will take a look at my FSM to see if they mention it in that way.
Good luck with your Sixpack, once you get all of the bugoolues worked out, you will like it!

Only because that’s what it is doing. The factory specification says 900RPM, so it would pass emissions at idle speed.They probably tested it on less than great gas, as someone going on a trip might encounter. And realized that the engine would run on (diesel) when shut off at 900RPM. 900RPM is a fast idle, and the center carb butterflies are open. Look at a ‘68 440 4BBL spec. I bet it’s closer to 700RPM. The FSM explains what it does.

The only thing it’s needed for is if you park your car in the grass… and some guy deducts points for it not being “correct”.

 

[Texas97]

On the car, hooked up as original, running and driving.

View attachment 1823089

thats the good stuff. thats what i needed. ill be identical except for the idle shutoff/run-on solenoid.

looks like i need the correct length 21.5" throttle cable for the 6 pack, and a cotter pin to hold in place and i should be GTG. i have the throttle return spring and bracket on order.

 

[Texas97]

It has an exhaust crossover, and heats the bimetal spring. I blocked mine to gain a few HP and installed a manual choke. Mine don’t have an electric connection.

sorry i glossed over this.

interesting. ill see what i can come up with.

 

[440 PHIXX]

sorry i glossed over this.

interesting. ill see what i can come up with.

Mine are the 1970 version. I’m not sure if the 1971 had electric heat. I do see you don’t have a center carb bowl vent. It was open to the atmosphere in ‘69-‘70, but was piped into the engine in ‘71.

 

[Texas97]

Good luck with your Sixpack, once you get all of the bugoolues worked out, you will like it!

thanks, its not completely stock, has jetting tuned from Promax for my setup with their metering block.

anyone have a recommendation for where to buy 6AN braided fuel line?

 

[pnora]

Hopefully, someone else will chime in here, it's not a fast idle solenoid, it's an idle/shut off solenoid. You should be able to live without it, I do. Otherwise, looks like the OP needs a return spring and bracket, air filter and studs and can't see the choke side and fuel lines. Of course, this is only the beginning for getting it tuned!

I guess you can call it what you want. Its design was to allow the desired idle speed of 900. The actual throttle blade screw was set to a lower speed which would be a couple hundred less. Normal running the solenoid is active allowing the 900 rpm's and when the key was off it would drop to the lower setting to prevent run on. . The procedure is here and from what I have read and know it had nothing to do with emissions.

 

[Bird 426]

Yes, this is the way that I remember it. #28.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I guess you can call it what you want. Its design was to allow the desired idle speed of 900. The actual throttle blade screw was set to a lower speed which would be a couple hundred less. Normal running the solenoid is active allowing the 900 rpm's and when the key was off it would drop to the lower setting to prevent run on. . The procedure is here and from what I have read and know it had nothing to do with emissions.

View attachment 1823122

If it has nothing to do with emissions why the 900RPM idle speed? GM used air pumps on all their high performance engines at the time. Chrysler didn’t use air pumps, but leaned the mixture on the carburetors, (idle mixture, and main jetting). It was all to meet the ever increasing emission standards that were being implemented. For the average guy working on the car it was much easier to tune the carbs than deal with the air pumps and all it’s exhaust manifold fittings. It probably wouldn’t pass at 700 or 750RPM.

 

[WileE]

It is an Idle Stop Solenoid: it controls RPM at idle, not fast idle. It's purpose is twofold: idle speed emissions, plus prevention of run-on after engine shut-off. Faced with new regs regarding HC, CO, and NoX, automakers devised various "ways" to meet stringent standards on existing engine combos.

 

[440 PHIXX]

It is an Idle Stop Solenoid: it controls RPM at idle, not fast idle. It's purpose is twofold: idle speed emissions, plus prevention of run-on after engine shut-off. Faced with new regs regarding HC, CO, and NoX, automakers devised various "ways" to meet stringent standards on existing engine combos.

It’s funny… I don’t have my 1970 FSM handy, just the 1968. But from that excerpt above, it almost reads as if they are telling you to disconnect the thing… without actually saying so. They allude to a “650 to 700RPM curb idle speed” that you would never experience with the thing energized. It’s always energized with the key in the run position.

 

[pnora]

If it has nothing to do with emissions why the 900RPM idle speed? GM used air pumps on all their high performance engines at the time. Chrysler didn’t use air pumps, but leaned the mixture on the carburetors, (idle mixture, and main jetting). It was all to meet the ever increasing emission standards that were being implemented. For the average guy working on the car it was much easier to tune the carbs than deal with the air pumps and all it’s exhaust manifold fittings. It probably wouldn’t pass at 700 or 750RPM.

Read up on it. That was the correct idle speed. The air/fuel adjustments are what control the actual emissions. 900 was the target RPM for these settings.

 

[pnora]

From the 70 fsm

 

[WileE]

It’s funny… I don’t have my 1970 FSM handy, just the 1968. But from that excerpt above, it almost reads as if they are telling you to disconnect the thing… without actually saying so. They allude to a “650 to 700RPM curb idle speed” that you would never experience with the thing energized. It’s always energized with the key in the run position.

Funny you mention that. Back in the day in the garage when we did tune-ups, that's exactly what we did occasionally.

 

[pnora]

Funny you mention that. Back in the day in the garage when we did tune-ups, that's exactly what we did occasionally.

You wont. Only way to get it on the throttle screw is without the solenoid powered. They tell you to set it with the solenoid activated. Turn the throttle plate screw in till it hits the lever and back it off 1 turn which is aprox. 650-700 rpms.

 

[WileE]

You wont. Only way to get it on the throttle screw is without the solenoid powered. They tell you to set it with the solenoid activated. Turn the throttle plate screw in till it hits the lever and back it off 1 turn which is aprox. 650-700 rpms.

that's what he said. set idle disconnected.

 

[Texas97]

You wont. Only way to get it on the throttle screw is without the solenoid powered. They tell you to set it with the solenoid activated. Turn the throttle plate screw in till it hits the lever and back it off 1 turn which is aprox. 650-700 rpms.

with a 6 pack, aren't you supposed to disconnect the outboard linkage when you adjust idle screw? wouldn't that also disconnect the solenoid or does it miss it?

 

[Bird 426]

All 3 carbs affect idle, they all contribute. That's why we like Promax base plates for the end carbs. I do not disconnect the ends except for removal.
Way off track, I'm out.

 

[440 PHIXX]

It’s been a long time, and The DC manuals are buried. But I followed the procedure they recommended for the Six Pack setup. Mind you, I have headers on both cars and a slightly more aggressive cam. They basically said the carbs were all jetted to lean from the factory. They recommended two steps up on the main jets in the center carb, a power valve that opened sooner, a bigger squirter for the accelerator pump, and backing out the idle screws a quarter turn more from the factory recommended setting. Also on the outboards, remove the lead plugs and back all 4 of them out a quarter turn. Then the metering plates were to be pin drilled out to .08? Been a while… finally I think it was the yellow springs in the vacuum diagrams. I did it and it was the most responsive Six Pack setup I was ever in. Many other guys that had the Six Pack that I talked to complained about an off idle stumble and bogging when the secondaries flipped. Those DC guys figured it out. I recommend trying the mods.