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Skinnies tire size

kjalltrac

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Will put a set of 28x10.5 hoosiers slicks on my 64 belvedere this year.
I was wondering what a suitable front tire would be? Will the 28s rub?
Looking at 27 or 28x4.5 hoosiers.
Wheels will be 15x4 and 15x10 weld prostars.
Thanks.

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I run M T 28 x 4.5 x 15 on my 64 they fit fine.
Doug
 
Do you know the back spacing by any chance?
15x4 with 1.625" back space. 3.375 to the outside. A 4" wheel measures 5" at the outside of the lips where backspace is measured. It's had 2 different style wheels with the same tires. I think the American's had even less back space like 1.5".
Doug

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Will put a set of 28x10.5 hoosiers slicks on my 64 belvedere this year.
I was wondering what a suitable front tire would be? Will the 28s rub?
Looking at 27 or 28x4.5 hoosiers.
Wheels will be 15x4 and 15x10 weld prostars.
Thanks.

View attachment 1789209
29’s also fit up front, is what I have on my 64IMG_1898.png
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Thank for your responses. Are there any advantages going bigger vs smaller front runners?
The larger diameter has more rollout and takes longer to break the beams. It’s supposed to help with red lighting but I’ve still done my fair share. Also, there’s loads of room for clearance on the 64’s, no issue there.
 
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Also, the larger the tire, the more you can drop the front end, to give the suspension max travel
 
You can Use front tire diameter to tailor your rollout and control your reaction times.
I was finding myself on the late side of things recently, so I switched from 27.5” front runners to 26”, and that seemed to make about .015 difference in my RT’s.

IMG_1029.png
 
You can Use front tire diameter to tailor your rollout and control your reaction times.
I was finding myself on the late side of things recently, so I switched from 27.5” front runners to 26”, and that seemed to make about .015 difference in my RT’s.

View attachment 1790999
So I understand how it affects rollout, but how can you use your front tires to control your reaction times?
 
Ta
So I understand how it affects rollout, but how can you use your front tires to control your reaction times?
Taller tires for more rollout and "quicker" times. Shorter tires for quicker reaction times, slower e.t.s, less rollout.
I have four sets of fronts/skinnies. 23"tall, 25" 26" and 29".
Too many redlights-taller tires
Too slow? Short tires. (Why Lemonwedge went to shorter tires, to improve his CAR'S reaction time.)
 
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Ta
Taller tires for more rollout and "quicker" times. Shorter tires for quicker reaction times, slower e.t.s, less rollout.
I have four sets of fronts/skinnies. 23"tall, 25" 26" and 29".
Too many redlights-taller tires
Too slow? Short tires. (Why Lemonwedge went to shorter tires, to improve his CAR'S reaction time.)
I'm of a different opinion. Not what the difference of circumference will do to reaction time as well as tire pressure +/ and or/- staggered wheel alignment~going in sideways, younameit,,,,but cutting the light is all on the driver. Run after run rinse repeat
 
I'm of a different opinion. Not what the difference of circumference will do to reaction time as well as tire pressure +/ and or/- staggered wheel alignment~going in sideways, younameit,,,,but cutting the light is all on the driver. Run after run rinse repeat
Right.
But it's almost impossible to change your "cue" on a full tree, or your internal reaction time against a pro tree.
So, if I'm going . 495. .471, .489 , I'm gonna put on a taller tire and try to go .510'.530.
If I can only go .440s on a protree, I'm gonna change out 25s for 23s immediately.
Of course, there are MANY other adjustments that can be made as well.
(Shock settings, tire pressure, starting line rpm to name a few).
 
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RemCharger said:
I'm of a different opinion. Not what the difference of circumference will do to reaction time as well as tire pressure +/ and or/- staggered wheel alignment~going in sideways, younameit,,,,but cutting the light is all on the driver. Run after run rinse repeat
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You’re only looking at half the picture, and it’s the half you have less control over. There is more to it, and the savvy racer that understands the following has an edge on you.


Remember, the staged beam is a beam of light at approx 1” off the ground. It is in the exact same place every time, and you CAN control how your car interfaces with that beam of light. Your staged light comes on when your tire breaks that beam of light. You don’t start the timers until the beam is reconnected when your tire leaves the beam of light. So the longer your front tire lingers in / rolls through the beam…. is how the tires rollout controls your RT.
Larger diameter tires, through greater circumference, lengthen that beam activity. Lower pressure does the same thing by making the contact patch longer; just watch the tires contact patch as you air it down. Higher pressure makes the tire stand up and shortens its contact patch, hence shortening its time in the beam at the same given rate of acceleration.
Further…. The key to consistent RT’s is to make sure you’re in the same spot in the beam every time. Use the entire tire, so to speak.

Using this knowledge is MUCH more controllable, and MUCH more consistent than just saying “I’m going to hit the light quicker this time”.

Does this help with understanding? On the right track at least?

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So, weld racing prostars 15x4 has either 1.875 or 2.5 inch back spacing.
Which bs do you think would fit the 64 the best, both functional and esthetic.
Stock front suspension and breaks.
(Might go with disc brakes in the future)
 
So, weld racing prostars 15x4 has either 1.875 or 2.5 inch back spacing.
Which bs do you think would fit the 64 the best, both functional and esthetic.
Stock front suspension and breaks.
(Might go with disc brakes in the future)
Discs might move the tire closer to the fender, so that would indicate the 2.5 bs.
Looks wise, I think the deeper dish 1.875 wheel looks better, but.....
If you're gonna run as tall a tire as possible, having it tucked farther inside the wheelwell will give more tire clearance at the front of the ww opening. So... 2.5 bs again
Me? I would buy the 2.5" b.s. so could put any tire I wanted on it.
 
You’re only looking at half the picture, and it’s the half you have less control over. There is more to it, and the savvy racer that understands the following has an edge on you.


Does this help with understanding? On the right track at least?

View attachment 1794721
I appreciate the good info, but I think you're trying to explain it to the wrong guy.
 
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