Slant 6 carb issue

[69a100]

Did you mention the carbs model and type? Is it Holley or Carter BBS? I may be able to help bettrr if I knew what type as esch had their own issues.....just a thought....
BOB RENTON

I have no answer for that as I don't know, you'll have to ask timmayy that. I'm runnin a Weber 32/36 2 bbl as I got tired of messin with the 1 bbl's on /6's. Seems like they are nothing but problems, esp. when the throttle bushing gets worn out.

 

[Timmayy]

Did you mention the carbs model and type? Is it Holley or Carter BBS? I may be able to help bettrr if I knew what type as esch had their own issues.....just a thought....
BOB RENTON

I'll find out.

 

[Timmayy]

It's the Carter carb.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Think we still have a super six setup still sitting around. It got to weigh a few pound though.

 

[Timmayy]

Here's the carb.

 

[69a100]

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE! Get rid of all that rubber hose, your just asking for FIRE!!
Put as much hard line on it as possible, I don't know why people do this! Honestly, all that brass at the carb needs to go too. Sorry to slam you but I think others will agree with me on this. Good Luck

 

[RJRENTON]

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE! Get rid of all that rubber hose, your just asking for FIRE!!
Put as much hard line on it as possible, I don't know why people do this! Honestly, all that brass at the carb needs to go too. Sorry to slam you but I think others will agree with me on this. Good Luck

I would agree the premise of the fuel supply line. It was usually a 5/16" steel line with an inverted flair at the carb connection. The PCV and vacuum advance lines were always rubber hose.
The 6-1697 is a casting number for the air horn casting not the carb model number. The origional carb number was on an aluminium tag under one of the air horn screws or stamped into the csrb's throttle body near one of the two mounting holes. The Super 6 used a Carter BBD 2 barrel carb and manifold and had slightly greater hp rating of ~15 more hp. It looks as if the carb was rebuilt....by who? Float settings are important but are not that critical. Was the correct rebuid kit used? Internal gaskets otiented correctly? is the accelerator pump settings correct? Is the step up piston and rod set correctly? Are the internal air bleeds and fuel restrictions clean? You also need to intstall the air cleaner hold down bale and stud assy. Just a few thoughts....
BOB RENTON

 

[Timmayy]

We don't know the shop that rebuilt it. Unfortunately that seems to be the issue we have. We might just have to open it up and reset everything. As for the fuel line. I plan on doing a SS line after it's running properly.

 

[oldbee]

Check the throttle shaft for excess play(vacuum leak?) otherwise,there's a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[RJRENTON]

We don't know the shop that rebuilt it. Unfortunately that seems to be the issue we have. We might just have to open it up and reset everything. As for the fuel line. I plan on doing a SS line after it's running properly.

There are several carb rebuilders that offer parts for rebuilding yourself. Worn throttle shafts, throttle plate housings are replaceable with new shafts and or bushings for the housings and are available...but not inexpensive. The trick to replacing the shaft is you need to remove it first....but the throttle plate is secured to the shaft with screws that are staked so they will not come loose. The staking must be removed, by grinding or drilling, b4 trying to unscrew them. Likewise, installing bushings in the body, the throttle plate and shaft must be removed first then the body must be line REAMED with an adjustable reamer to accomodate the bushings OD then line reaming the INSTALLED bushing's ID to accomodate the shaft's OD. It's possible that you have a shaft leak...but not very probable. If you want to pursue that venue, I could provide a couple of rebuilders/parts suppliers if you're interested. Maybe the easiest thing to do is get a rebuild kit and go thru the rebuilding process yourself checking all critical internal dimensions/adjustments. IF the idle and off idle transfer circuit are restricted, this would cause a stumble or uneven idle. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[mopar 3 B]

The bowl cover also needs to be checked. Any warpage will cause a vacuum leak that can be internal and hard to find.

 

[Timmayy]

Well since he sent the old carb back as a core exchange we have no numbers. This new carb has no tag on it. It's a Carter. Anyone know the numbers? 1965 Dodge Coronet /6 1 barrel.

 

[RJRENTON]

FYI...
According to my 1965 FSM, for the 225 cubic inch /6, the original Carter carb model number is: 3839S used with a manual transmission or Carter model number 3840S used with an automatic transmission. The 170 cubic inch /6 uses a slightly smaller carb, but since yours is a full size car, the engine would be the 225" /6
Specifics:
1-11/16" throttle bore 1-11/32" venturi with a # 120-263S main jet and a # 75-1592 (0.028" dia.) step up rod for the automatic transmission and # 75-159 (0.022" dia.) step up rod for the manual transmission. Float level is: 1/4" for both transmission options. The other setting variables will be listed on the instruction sheet that comes with the rebuild kit. I prefer Standard Motor Products Hygrade "Jiffy Kit" as its the most complete and easy to underdtand. I'm sure others will have their own opinions and preferences....but my info comes from a real Factory Service Manual and not Motor's or Chilton's publications. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[Timmayy]

Thanks for that info. It is greatly appreciated. Mr. renton, you are DA MAN!!!!

 

[Timmayy]

I'm thinking after all this, the carb still ain't right. Someone mentioned the Daytona /6 direct replacement carb. What are your thoughts on this?
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Replacement-1-Barrel-Carburetor-Dodge-Plymouth-Slant-6_p_3860.html

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm thinking after all this, the carb still ain't right. Someone mentioned the Daytona /6 direct replacement carb. What are your thoughts on this?
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Replacement-1-Barrel-Carburetor-Dodge-Plymouth-Slant-6_p_3860.html

Personally I wouldn't spend that kind of money when what Ma Mopar used can work just fine.

I haven't refreshed my memory on what you have already done but if the float level is correct, the throttle shaft isn't worn to the degree that it's sucking air and the mixture is set correctly, the carb should be fine. There are a lot of people that claim they can rebuild a carb and they really can't. I've opened up new carbs and found the float level way off. Rebuilt ones can be way off from the fact that they are rebuilt by who knows who. Carbs and other obsolete parts being rebuilt by someone who might only do a couple a year. I've always learned to work on my own parts. One thing, I couldn't always afford to have someone else do it, second thing is I don't always trust someone else's work.
( I'll re read your thread...)

I'd check the float level and the condition of the accelerator pump and bore, even if it's suppose to be new. Make sure you're getting a good squirt. I've found these can cause idle problems also. They used to have recalls on the accelerator pumps back in the day because the engine would fall on it's face when pulling out in traffic. They weren't made with a ethanol compatible material and deteriorated. After replacement you would have to adjust the idle back down because someone else had set it up.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm thinking after all this, the carb still ain't right. Someone mentioned the Daytona /6 direct replacement carb. What are your thoughts on this?
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Replacement-1-Barrel-Carburetor-Dodge-Plymouth-Slant-6_p_3860.html

IMO...
The carb shown in the link, is, a universal replacement as noted, with major changes. First, it is using a maunal, cable operated choke. There is no, at least its not visable, PCV connection point. The fuel hook up is different, requiring re-plumbing. The air filter mounting appears to be different than the Carter BBS carb.

You comment "the carb still ain't right" (assuming you are referring to the replacement Carter BBS carb) is not very descriptive. What problems are you experiencing? Stumbling, poor idle quality, lack of power due to incorrect jetting, non-operative or inadequate accelerator pump system? The Carter BBS is a very simple unit that can cause problems if it was not rebuilt correctly or applied incorrectly to your application, by the parts store counter person. Some "liberties may have taken" to something they had in stock vs what you actually require.
My opinion...fix what you have rather than consider an unknown quantity for additional $$$. How can we help?
BOB RENTON

 

[Timmayy]

Yeah maybe I should just take it off and try rebuilding myself. Idle is poor. I had to raise the idle so it wouldn't stall in gear at a stop sign. Other than that it runs fine. When I get ready to do it I will need help on the finer adjustments if thats OK. I've never rebuilt one in all my years (except for my dirtbikes when I was a kid). Always had an old guru to do it but he's no longer with us.

 

[RJRENTON]

Yeah maybe I should just take it off and try rebuilding myself. Idle is poor. I had to raise the idle so it wouldn't stall in gear at a stop sign. Other than that it runs fine. When I get ready to do it I will need help on the finer adjustments if thats OK. I've never rebuilt one in all my years (except for my dirtbikes when I was a kid). Always had an old guru to do it but he's no longer with us.

ABSOLUTELY....we (me and I'm sure others) can walk you thru the rebuilding process. As it has been said b4, it sounds as if there is a vacuum leak....most likely at the base mounting flange gasket or there may be a vacuum passage in the top that may be leaking or the float setting may be too high (yielding a rich mixture) or too low (yielding a lean mixture) or the step up piston may be incorrectly set. IF you are considering rebuilding it yourself, obtain a quality rebuild kit from the carb rebuilder listed on this site....very knowledgeable and easy to talk with. I would not consider the "universal" carb posted in #35 post. You will be spending over $400 for the carb and all the accessories needed to complete the installation. Yes....its an old Holley design for a Ford application. If you were going to consider replaceing the CARTER BBS, I would consider a Holley 1920 for your 225 /6 engjne. There are several suppliers and/or eBay that can help if this is the direction you want to pursue. Consider WOODRUFF CARB SPECIALTIES ON THIS SITE. He offers a 10% discount to FBBO members.
BOB RENTON

 

[Timmayy]

ABSOLUTELY....we (me and I'm sure others) can walk you thru the rebuilding process. As it has been said b4, it sounds as if there is a vacuum leak....most likely at the base mounting flange gasket or there may be a vacuum passage in the top that may be leaking or the float setting may be too high (yielding a rich mixture) or too low (yielding a lean mixture) or the step up piston may be incorrectly set. IF you are considering rebuilding it yourself, obtain a quality rebuild kit from the carb rebuilder listed on this site....very knowledgeable and easy to talk with. I would not consider the "universal" carb posted in #35 post. You will be spending over $400 for the carb and all the accessories needed to complete the installation. Yes....its an old Holley design for a Ford application. If you were going to consider replaceing the CARTER BBS, I would consider a Holley 1920 for your 225 /6 engjne. There are several suppliers and/or eBay that can help if this is the direction you want to pursue. Consider WOODRUFF CARB SPECIALTIES ON THIS SITE. He offers a 10% discount to FBBO members.
BOB RENTON

I just sent them a message.