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Sludge Problem on Passenger Side of Poly 318?

BDL

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Basic question is this... Why is there sludge on the passenger side of my 1966 Poly Head 318 and none on the driver side?

Driver_Side_Poly_318.jpg


Passenger_Side_Poly_318.jpg


Here's the background... I set out to do a simple thing yesterday: Stop the exhaust leaks so the wife and I can actually feel comfortable taking the boys out in the Charger without ending up smelling like exhaust. Well, I accomplished that. But, the lack of exhaust noise revealed serious valve train noise. So, I got to rectifying that. That's where the day went wrong.

There seems to be a debate on what the correct valve lash should be for the poly 318. I first set the valve lash to 0.008 intake / 0.012 exhaust after finding that recommendation online. Hmph. That setting was working great on the driver side and really seamed to quiet the poly down. But, as I removed the valve cover from the passenger side, I noticed sludge. I said to myself, wait... I didn't see sludge on the driver side. And I went about setting the lash on the passenger side while I pondered what could have caused the sludge.

Anyway, as I adjusted the passenger side, the engine ran progressively worse. When I started out with the adjustments, all I needed to do to start the engine was reach in and bump the ignition. But, by the time I was done, I was climbing in and playing around with the gas every time. And... The engine sounded like complete garbage when I did finally get it to run again. "It must be down two or three cylinders (more)" is what I thought.

That caused me to second guess the 0.008i/0.012e recommendations. So, I did more checking... I found three other recommendations: 0.010i/0.018e; 0.012i/0.022e; & 0.028i/0.032e. GRR. I chose to go through the whole valvetrain again with a larger gap to see what would happen. As expected, the valvetrain noise returned. However... I didn't get my cylinders back.

So... Without getting into the engine, I wonder what's going on in there. Did I bend pushrods? Do I have "burned valves?" Is there just too much garbage built up on the valves causing them not to seat? Is there too much blowby on the passenger side that's causing the sludge in the valvetrain?

I may need to disclose a few things. The 318 Poly I have been using for the past couple years was plucked straight from the junkyard. I did not pull it apart. I only flushed the cooling passages, changed the oil, poured a bit of oil down each spark plug hole and cranked and pumped the ol' Stromberg 2-barrell until it started. (I know... Poor Poly :( ) As you can imagine, it has Never run correctly. But I considered myself lucky to have a full 6 or 7 of the 8 available cylinders. Yeah. It was that bad at first. But, remarkably, it got better with time. I did take the time to take compression readings on all cylinders before I tried to crank it and then again after I ran it for a while. The initial compression readings told me that there was a reason I only had 6 or 7 cylinders. One cylinder had absolutely zero compression, another cylinder had only 80 psi and the other six hovered between 125 and 140 psi. I adjusted the valve lash at that time and was able to successfully bring the cylinder with zero pressure to somewhere closer to 80 psi. Also, the one that started out around 80 psi was raised to about 120 psi. Although the compression was better the second time I took the measurements, it never did completely even out across all 8 cylinders. The worst cylinder measured around 110 psi and the best cyl was around 150 psi.

Before I "fixed" it this weekend, the engine fooled people into thinking it had a hot cam (though it was hard to hear through the exhaust leaks and valvetrain noise). Now, it's easy to tell that it's just a terrible sounding engine.

The Charger may be down for the rest of this season... But she will be far better when she returns to the road. ...I've got the numbers matching Poly 318 in the front of the garage just begging to be machined and built.
 
Burnt a valve on an otherwise, perfectly running 67 383 4 barrel charger.

Pulled the valve covers off to just do a valve job and seen sludge similar to that. Decided on full rebuild. Just to mucked up.

Now has 438 inch source kit in it.

Me? I hate to do things twice I'd just rebuild it.
 
Burnt a valve on an otherwise, perfectly running 67 383 4 barrel charger.

Pulled the valve covers off to just do a valve job and seen sludge similar to that. Decided on full rebuild. Just to mucked up.

Now has 438 inch source kit in it.

Me? I hate to do things twice I'd just rebuild it.


That's my plan too. But, wouldn't it be nice to put a bandaid on it to limp through the rest of the classic car driving season? Probably just wishful thinking ;) I'm sure the only bandaid possible would start by me pulling the heads and flipping them over. The next thread I start will have to do with building the original poly. :)
 
Is the rt.side the pcv side? Can't remember but usually it is. Sounds like too many miles between oil changes. Changed oil a loong time ago on a police car(383) that used the old Rotella T(15w40) and you could even still see the paint on the valve springs, course the oil changes were religious.
 
I had that same problem long ago, but I found out it was because I used to like to pick up fat girls so my car always had a lean to the passenger side lol
:rofl: okay okay sorry... Seriously though it sounds like it definitely just needs a good going-through... but maybe you could try seafoam or a similar cleaner in the meantime? An oil system cleaner may be more helpful..
 
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Basic question is this... Why is there sludge on the passenger side of my 1966 Poly Head 318 and none on the driver side?

View attachment 504995

View attachment 504996

Here's the background... I set out to do a simple thing yesterday: Stop the exhaust leaks so the wife and I can actually feel comfortable taking the boys out in the Charger without ending up smelling like exhaust. Well, I accomplished that. But, the lack of exhaust noise revealed serious valve train noise. So, I got to rectifying that. That's where the day went wrong.

There seems to be a debate on what the correct valve lash should be for the poly 318. I first set the valve lash to 0.008 intake / 0.012 exhaust after finding that recommendation online. Hmph. That setting was working great on the driver side and really seamed to quiet the poly down. But, as I removed the valve cover from the passenger side, I noticed sludge. I said to myself, wait... I didn't see sludge on the driver side. And I went about setting the lash on the passenger side while I pondered what could have caused the sludge.

Anyway, as I adjusted the passenger side, the engine ran progressively worse. When I started out with the adjustments, all I needed to do to start the engine was reach in and bump the ignition. But, by the time I was done, I was climbing in and playing around with the gas every time. And... The engine sounded like complete garbage when I did finally get it to run again. "It must be down two or three cylinders (more)" is what I thought.

That caused me to second guess the 0.008i/0.012e recommendations. So, I did more checking... I found three other recommendations: 0.010i/0.018e; 0.012i/0.022e; & 0.028i/0.032e. GRR. I chose to go through the whole valvetrain again with a larger gap to see what would happen. As expected, the valvetrain noise returned. However... I didn't get my cylinders back.

So... Without getting into the engine, I wonder what's going on in there. Did I bend pushrods? Do I have "burned valves?" Is there just too much garbage built up on the valves causing them not to seat? Is there too much blowby on the passenger side that's causing the sludge in the valvetrain?

I may need to disclose a few things. The 318 Poly I have been using for the past couple years was plucked straight from the junkyard. I did not pull it apart. I only flushed the cooling passages, changed the oil, poured a bit of oil down each spark plug hole and cranked and pumped the ol' Stromberg 2-barrell until it started. (I know... Poor Poly :( ) As you can imagine, it has Never run correctly. But I considered myself lucky to have a full 6 or 7 of the 8 available cylinders. Yeah. It was that bad at first. But, remarkably, it got better with time. I did take the time to take compression readings on all cylinders before I tried to crank it and then again after I ran it for a while. The initial compression readings told me that there was a reason I only had 6 or 7 cylinders. One cylinder had absolutely zero compression, another cylinder had only 80 psi and the other six hovered between 125 and 140 psi. I adjusted the valve lash at that time and was able to successfully bring the cylinder with zero pressure to somewhere closer to 80 psi. Also, the one that started out around 80 psi was raised to about 120 psi. Although the compression was better the second time I took the measurements, it never did completely even out across all 8 cylinders. The worst cylinder measured around 110 psi and the best cyl was around 150 psi.

Before I "fixed" it this weekend, the engine fooled people into thinking it had a hot cam (though it was hard to hear through the exhaust leaks and valvetrain noise). Now, it's easy to tell that it's just a terrible sounding engine.

The Charger may be down for the rest of this season... But she will be far better when she returns to the road. ...I've got the numbers matching Poly 318 in the front of the garage just begging to be machined and built.
Sludge? Poor crank case ventilation! Your blowing past the rings a bit or you've got a slight internal moisture problem from an inadequet PCV valve.
 
Seriously though it sounds like it definitely just needs a good going-through... but maybe you could try seafoam or a similar cleaner in the meantime? An oil system cleaner may be more helpful..

Lol... My wife was large and in charge (pregnant) when I first threw this engine in. You may be onto something! ;)

Na... I am thinking you're right about this engine needing to be gone through though. It'll get yanked just as soon as the numbers matching poly is built, but I think I'll start by having some fun with a gallon or so of kerosene without the valve covers off. Then I think I'll go for one last oil change on this bad boy. Maybe it'll do something. Maybe not, but kerosene and a toothbrush is how I used to get all the grime off my motorcycle. Nothing worked better! ;)
 
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Sludge? Poor crank case ventilation! Your blowing past the rings a bit or you've got a slight internal moisture problem from an inadequet PCV valve.

Yatzee, thank you. This is definitely helpful since (as Oldbee pointed out) the PCV valve is on that side. It definitely rattles to beat the band when the car is running, so I think it's working. However, I can only wonder what the rings and head gasket look like. What's strange on this motor is that it barely smokes, even though I cleaned a ton of hard plastic from valve guide seals out of both heads.
 
The exhaust flapper valve in the passenger side manifold, its rusted shut. Been there done that.
 
The exhaust flapper valve in the passenger side manifold, its rusted shut. Been there done that.
Actually... It's rusted open (oddly enough). I did check that before dropping it in the car. ...and I rechecked it this past weekend.
 
Are you getting a good oil supply to that side of the engine?

It's got great oil pressure. But, honestly, I'm not sure I have enough oil flowing anywhere in that engine. I expected to get oil all over the place while running the engine without the valve covers in place. But, to my surprise, nothing spilled out. Nothing squirted anywhere. No mess was made.
 
It's got great oil pressure. But, honestly, I'm not sure I have enough oil flowing anywhere in that engine. I expected to get oil all over the place while running the engine without the valve covers in place. But, to my surprise, nothing spilled out. Nothing squirted anywhere. No mess was made.

I kind of notice that. I'm no 318 xpert but you can't do that with a 440!

Also I noticed that your engine is running in your pictures. I've had a few sludged up engines that I would remove the rocker shafts, some penetrating oil down the oil passage and useing an old speedometer cable or wire, get the passage opened up again.

I've also used Rislone oil treatment to loosen things up but if the sludge is the only thing holding things together, you'll end up with a real noisy engine or worse.
 
I kind of notice that. I'm no 318 xpert but you can't do that with a 440!

Also I noticed that your engine is running in your pictures. I've had a few sludged up engines that I would remove the rocker shafts, some penetrating oil down the oil passage and useing an old speedometer cable or wire, get the passage opened up again.

I've also used Rislone oil treatment to loosen things up but if the sludge is the only thing holding things together, you'll end up with a real noisy engine or worse.

Yeah... I actually shot a few videos with the gopro of me adjusting the valve lash. Then, I snagged these shots from the videos. I haven't posted the videos because I was doing things a little unconventionally. I remember reading in the manual that the valve lash should be adjusted while the engine is running... So I did. But it was near impossible. So, there was a lot of starting, feeling, stopping, adjusting, starting, feeling, etc. Somehow, it felt wrong.
 
Yeah... I actually shot a few videos with the gopro of me adjusting the valve lash. Then, I snagged these shots from the videos. I haven't posted the videos because I was doing things a little unconventionally. I remember reading in the manual that the valve lash should be adjusted while the engine is running... So I did. But it was near impossible. So, there was a lot of starting, feeling, stopping, adjusting, starting, feeling, etc. Somehow, it felt wrong.

Check out the link in post #2
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/318-poly-valve-adjustment.85572/
 
Here's one of the videos I took while trying to set the valve lash the other day...

Sorry but you can't be very accurate doing it that way. Do it like the thread I posted useing a remote starter button or a socket on the crank with the spark plugs removed. Use his method of which cylinders are top dead center, watching those particular valves being closed, then adjust them.

They are solid lifters aren't they?
 
Sorry but you can't be very accurate doing it that way. Do it like the thread I posted useing a remote starter button or a socket on the crank with the spark plugs removed. Use his method of which cylinders are top dead center, watching those particular valves being closed, then adjust them.

They are solid lifters aren't they?

Yeah... the way I did it sucks. VERY Arbitrary. I've done it the other way (the right way, in my head) but chose to do things quickly this time. It never pays to rush through a job!

Yes. Solid lifters :(
 
Update on the Poly!

The prospect of a new engine in my '66 really got my motor running ;) but the ramification of a $6000 bill kicked my butt to the curb! So, for the past several weeks, I have set my goals on my Panel Van build and let my Charger sit. It pained me to not drive the Charger, but it was great incentive to get some things done on the Panel. However, we had a car show this weekend that my wife and I did not want to miss. For a couple weeks, I reveled in the delusion that I might be able to drive the Panel Van to this car show yesterday. But alas... reality set in. So... I decided to do some more on the Charger.

I started off doing something that I have meant to do for so many years that it's embarrassing. I finally made a spark plug holder so I could clearly see what each cylinder was doing. No biggie here... Took a scrap 2x6 that was lying around and drilled some holes. A lot of people just use an old shoe box by making holes for each spark plug with a knife. Same principle here... Just seems more permanent. ...maybe. :)


I used the space at the top of the board to add the firing order so I don't have to look it up each time. Man, my carburetor looks TINY compared to the 2x6!
20170923_100843.jpg

20170923_100850.jpg

20170923_100855.jpg



Anyway... I did a compression test on each cylinder next.
8 150 7 142
6 135 5 150
4 150 3 0
2 155 1 144

Yup... Cyl #3 had no compression!

So... I got to re-adjusting valve lash. I had to forget about what the books say about proper lash and simply adjusting intake and exhaust for best compression. The lash ended up larger than prescribed and all my valve noise returned (as expected) :*(

Cylinder #3 has a real issue. Although I didn't notice a broken spring, it seems like that might be the case. Or, maybe it's just extremely weak, or maybe there's another issue... I don't know. But I was able to compress the spring by hand easier than any other cylinder. It's not like I could compress it all the way or by some drastic amount, but there's something ary.

Regardless of the issue... I was able to get the compression on #6 up to 140 and #3 up to 144. So... I began to put everything back together.

Now... I had a small problem when it came to putting the plug wires back on because the wire boot tore off on the #3 cylinder (again, with problems on #3). So, I pulled a spare set of wires I had boxed up from another engine and started swapping cables. I realized that the "spare" cables (spare is code word for "used" in this case) were easier to work with than the ones I had on the engine. The boots actually slid back the way they need to in order to get the ends seated on the plugs and in the cap where they barely slid on the other wires. It was actually a pleasant experience where I dreaded touching the plug wires before.

Bad wires!
20170924_120810.jpg



Sweet... Everything was back together! So I jumped in and hit the key. Chug Chug Chug... It was running, kind of. But as if it was an accentuated sort of "running terrible" that caused me to give up on the Charger weeks back. Discouraged, I went inside to eat lunch. When I came back out, I decided to "just check" the firing order to be sure everything was good. BINGO! Numbers 5&7 were swapped! So were #'s 6&4! Dude! Seriously!?! Here's the funny thing... My neighbor asked me "How's the Charger running?" the other day. When I told him how it was doing, he asked "Did you check the spark plug order?" I love my neighbors! Actually, I do like them (a little less some days). They repay me for the pranks I pay on them!

The result is good. The Charger ran better yesterday than it has a VERY long time! It may still be noisy, but it runs great:)
 
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