Sniper Efi 68 Charger

[69ChargerR/TSE]

If you need a mount for your controller.

http://[URL]https://carchains3d.com/collections/3-5-inch-holley-terminator-x-and-sniper-mounts

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I am using this one, and its mounted on a Ram Mount magnet, in from of my tic toc tac for now.

http://[URL]https://carchains3d.com...screen-mounts-sniper-and-terminator-x-screens

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[Pool Fixer]

If you need a mount for your controller.

http://[URL][URL][URL]https://carch...-5-inch-holley-terminator-x-and-sniper-mounts

[/URL][/URL][/URL]

I am using this one, and its mounted on a Ram Mount magnet, in from of my tic toc tac for now.

http://[URL][URL][URL]https://carch...screen-mounts-sniper-and-terminator-x-screens

[/URL][/URL][/URL]

Awesome! I've been thinking about how I was going to mount this thing

 

[Pool Fixer]

If you wanted to, they do offer the round OE looking Hyperspark coil.
I removed the label, and put ECS's OE coil decal on it.

http://[URL]https://www.holley.com/...coils/street/performance_street/parts/556-153

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and am using this coil bracket.

http://[URL]https://www.manciniracing.com/mabigblcoreb.html

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Thanks for this suggestion. I do like that option. first I'm going to try to mount it under the washer pump jar. Want to get the CD box and the coil in that space and it's tight. Freakin horns get in the way, but I gotta have my horns, right?

 

[Wietse]

Freakin horns get in the way, but I gotta have my horns, right?

I placed the box and coil there also, i relocated my horns to the front side of the radiator support. Can use the same mounting location but had to make a bend in the bracket to be able to install it.

Who cares about those horns, if you have loud pipes you will not need them anyway.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I placed the box and coil there also, i relocated my horns to the front side of the radiator support. Can use the same mounting location but had to make a bend in the bracket to be able to install it.

Who cares about those horns, if you have loud pipes you will not need them anyway.

Reminds me of a friend in HS… 74 formula, aftermarket steering wheel no horn. Those are for girls anyway.

I love the idea of moving them to the front of the rad support. I’m going to try that

 

[Pool Fixer]

Got the O2 sensor mounted today. Replaced manifold to pipe gaskets since I had to drop it down to drill the hole. What a pain in the cock though

 

[Pool Fixer]

I met you halfway… I mounted the coil in rad support. I didn’t move the horns though. Ironically the lower one hasn’t worked in forever so deleted on that. Almost ready to bring the thunder!

 

[Pool Fixer]

So close i can taste it! powered it up the computer today and set all the parameters. I have to run a new fuel vent line, seciure the rubber gasket in the trunk where the filler neck goes through, put some gas in it, cycle pump to purge fuel line. After that it's go time. I guess this can be done on the cheap but I found a way not to do that:

new:
Fuel Tank

Fuel pump

Fuel lines

Fuel filter

Distributor

Coil

Ignition box

Spark plugs

Spark plug wires

Intake manifold

Water pump

and I rewired a lot of old stuff I didn't like.

 

[Wietse]

Put the fuel hose end in a bucket and run the fuel pump to flush the line before you run it direct to the sniper.
Any dirt inside goes straight to the injectors.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Put the fuel hose end in a bucket and run the fuel pump to flush the line before you run it direct to the sniper.
Any dirt inside goes straight to the injectors.

that's the plan. I already put a quick connector on the fuel pump feed from the sniper so I can disconnect it from the sniper and jump it to run it for a minute or 2 into a bucket. Just got my throttle linkage sorted. I had some aftermarket highrise bracket i was using with carb and performer rpm. Now I'm lower throttle body and street dominator. I'm impressed with the adjustability of it. it may be from AR engineering,.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

So close i can taste it! powered it up the computer today and set all the parameters. I have to run a new fuel vent line, seciure the rubber gasket in the trunk where the filler neck goes through, put some gas in it, cycle pump to purge fuel line. After that it's go time. I guess this can be done on the cheap but I found a way not to do that:

new:
Fuel Tank

Fuel pump

Fuel lines

Fuel filter

Distributor

Coil

Ignition box

Spark plugs

Spark plug wires

Intake manifold

Water pump

and I rewired a lot of old stuff I didn't like.

The Sniper requires a return line, the Sniper Stealth doesn't, I put the stealth on to avoid the return.

 

[Pool Fixer]

The Sniper requires a return line, the Sniper Stealth doesn't, I put the stealth on to avoid the return.

I did run the return already. I was referring to the vent line. there is one in the tank and on built into fuel pump mount. I capped both of those and am using the factory vent in the fillter neck. I had to get a new filler neck because the OE was rotted on the bottom. need to run a new line for that. Not sure where that goes. I think it's supposed to end up in the drivers frame rail but I'm not sure how it exits the trunk. my fillter neck trunk seal is not original and does not have any holes in it besides for the neck itself. I assume im supposed to squeeze the rubber vent line through same hole or punch a new one?

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I did run the return already. I was referring to the vent line. there is one in the tank and on built into fuel pump mount. I capped both of those and am using the factory vent in the fillter neck. I had to get a new filler neck because the OE was rotted on the bottom. need to run a new line for that. Not sure where that goes. I think it's supposed to end up in the drivers frame rail but I'm not sure how it exits the trunk. my fillter neck trunk seal is not original and does not have any holes in it besides for the neck itself. I assume im supposed to squeeze the rubber vent line through same hole or punch a new one?

Please share a trunk photo.
Mine has a separate vent grommet.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Please share a trunk photo.
Mine has a separate vent grommet.

Your damn right it does! Next time I’ll actually look before I ask lol. The metal vent tube on new neck doesn’t line up with the factory grommet though. Illl have to do something with that.

I powered it up to configure it. Almost ready to feed her the onions but ran out of time yesterday.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Here’s my hidden Sniper Stealth EFI.

View attachment 1415940

View attachment 1415942

Good afternoon all!

Im in the phase 1 of installing a Holley Sniper Efi on my 68 Charger with a 440. Before I even take the carb off, I decided to tackle the fuel system first. I bought a Tanks, Inc Efi ready tank from summit, the one that comes with float style sender and the pump. I researched, measured, and installed the pump and sender in tank and it's on my bench at the moment. Of course I yanked the old tank and realized that the new one didn't come with the filler neck grommet/gasket and that my OE 1968 fillter neck was trashed, flaking away inside. So... I ordered up those parts along with the to of tank pad I forgot. While I'm waiting, I wanted to test it. I temp jumpted the pump and it sounds good.

I ohm'd the fuel sender and it reads 80 ohms empty and 10 ohms full (flipped the tank over to simulate full) I've read that mopar factory gauges are 10-70 ohms. I don't feel like it's a problem but I wanted some other opinions.

I'll update this as I go, maybe my experience can help someone else.

The wire that provided voltage to the original ballast resistor should be hot key on and cranking. Safest bet would be to use that wire to trigger a relay. Use the relay to switch a wire with enough amperage to operate the pump. I thought the Holley harness had a fuel pump relay already wired in place? Be careful how much amperage you try and run through the factory bulkhead connector, I have seen the pins get hot and cause problems. And on the fuel gauge sender, I have had issues with aftermarket senders being accurate. I usually hold the sender with the wire hooked up and a ground test lead hooked to the housing, have somebody watch the gauge and run it slowly through its range of motion, by bending the float you can get more accuracy.

 

[Pool Fixer]

The wire that provided voltage to the original ballast resistor should be hot key on and cranking. Safest bet would be to use that wire to trigger a relay. Use the relay to switch a wire with enough amperage to operate the pump. I thought the Holley harness had a fuel pump relay already wired in place? Be careful how much amperage you try and run through the factory bulkhead connector, I have seen the pins get hot and cause problems. And on the fuel gauge sender, I have had issues with aftermarket senders being accurate. I usually hold the sender with the wire hooked up and a ground test lead hooked to the housing, have somebody watch the gauge and run it slowly through its range of motion, by bending the float you can get more accuracy.

Hi, yes I am using the 2 wires from ballast resistor (one is hot crank, one is hot key on) to trigger a relay that provides the sniper with “key on/crank” power

I have run a 130 amp Denso on this car for 15 years. It’s a factory alt for an ‘02 v8/1 ton ram van. Got it from an ambulance conversion shop as a new take off. When I installed it, I ran a 4g wire from back of alt to the stud on starter relay.

On the sender, I did bench test it in the full and empty positions and it read close to what it should on my meter.

 

[Pool Fixer]

got it running today. having some trouble with startup and idle. On start up, I can't get it to run without gassing it a little. I've tried the start up enrichment even well beyond the recommended 200%. It's possible I needto go the other way or do something more with timing.

The more pressing item for me is IAC %. I followed the instructions by disabling idle timing, out of the box iac was 50% even when engine temps were at 167 degrees. I adjusted the throttle blades to get it down to 5-8% making sure the TPS was at 0% at idle. when I shut it down and fire it back up, it's up at over 30% again. I checked for vacuum leaks with a can of carb cleaner and didn't see anythng. I also disconnected the PCV valve and plugged the port on the throttle body.

Car drives fine, responsive. I feel these issues are related and I haven't spend more than an hour playing with it. It's getting late over here so I'll pick it up again tomorrow.

 

[Wietse]

I did not see any cam specs of what you are using, it can make a big difference in requirements.
What is the cranking timing and idle target timing set at?
More cam generally means it needs a richer idle mixture and you can try and set the Idle AFR target to 13.0 or 12.5 and see what it does.
With your manifold vacuum i believe the PCV valve will not start jumping but just make sure it is free.

The IAC needs to be set with the engine at normal operating temperature, if you had it off and restart it it can go to a different position temporary but once the idle stabilizes it should go back to a low percentage.
You can change the IAC behavior (reaction time) and also check from what rpm the IAC control kicks back in.

 

[Pool Fixer]

I did not see any cam specs of what you are using, it can make a big difference in requirements.
What is the cranking timing and idle target timing set at?
More cam generally means it needs a richer idle mixture and you can try and set the Idle AFR target to 13.0 or 12.5 and see what it does.
With your manifold vacuum i believe the PCV valve will not start jumping but just make sure it is free.

The IAC needs to be set with the engine at normal operating temperature, if you had it off and restart it it can go to a different position temporary but once the idle stabilizes it should go back to a low percentage.
You can change the IAC behavior (reaction time) and also check from what rpm the IAC control kicks back in.

cam is an MP purpleshaft
4452993
Cam Style:
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
2,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
238
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
238
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
238 int./238 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
280
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
280
Advertised Duration:
280 int./280 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.474 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.474 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.474 int./0.474 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
110

I selected "street/strip" from the setup.

i have cranking timing at 18 degrees advanced. I think it's fuel related because if you give it just a touch of pedal, it settle into 850 rpm idle. It always idled "lumpy" even with carb. I have the pcv port still plugged and also the port on the intake for headlight vacuum is plugged. I chased a few other issues down like one plug wire barely on, a 4 hole carb gasket that was on my shelf forever and the middle broke out of it... lucky it didnt get sucked into the egine lol. I also have exhaust leaks. replaced both flange gaskets from manifolds to pipes when I dropped system to install 02 but I think I need the thicker ones. It's very slight and thought it was only drivers side at first and 02 is on pass side. now I think it's both so all tuning is halted until I resolve that.

initail start up is whats bothering me at the moment. I've tried the start up fuel enrichment at many different settings and it seems to make no difference. it goes up to 500% but instructions say 200 should be the most. when it's 200 or higher tyou can see the fuel spash up out of the top of the throttle body when you key on and it gives it that enrichent shot. I don't like that at all. I've also tried the crank timing from 18 degrees down to 8 and it seems to make no difference.

It drives well. bogs a little if you really mash it but I only have a few miles on it. midrange/part throttle response it very good.

anyway, where I'm at is I ordered thicker gaskets and I'll get that resolved. then I think I'll start over.

 

[Pool Fixer]

If I'm being honest, trying to decide if it's just lumpy idle or 7 out of 8 lol... I have these cardboard plug wire pliers my old man gave to me a bajillion years ago. going to bring them in and start pulling them off. has anyone else noticed how crappy plug access is on B body big block mopars with manifolds? I have hands like feet but still, jeezus!!!

video of idle.
Pics of my carb gasket
Charger sniper idle