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so took the charger on a big drive today, then...

benno440

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like I said big drive then gradually it started popping, backfiring and missing and slowly got worse.
first thing to look at would be spark plugs and leads yeh?

god damn looks like rear main is leaking for the 3rd time.
 
Check the distributor first. I have had the cap spring come loose and allow the cap to pop up on one side. If it is the MP electronic, look at the reluctor air gap. I have had mine slip from the .008 setting to over .020. The car ran fine until I leaned on the throttle, then it popped, sputtered and snorted.

Rear main ? I had what I thought was a rear main leak. I replaced the gaskets and seals 3 times, then noticed that the leak was coming from above....The oil gallery plugs in the rear of the block were loose!
 
msd dizzy, no vac advance with msd 6 AL ignition.

good point out of the top oil galley holes, still looks like a gearbox removal though, haha
 
Rear main ? I had what I thought was a rear main leak. I replaced the gaskets and seals 3 times, then noticed that the leak was coming from above....The oil gallery plugs in the rear of the block were loose!

That's funny........... sorry.
 
sounds like plugs failing as in too hot or too cold or too lean or too rich

let us know

question you did not use impact to install plugs as in air ratchet as they can damage the resister built into the plug
 
Who uses an IMPACT gun to install spark plugs????
 
Make sure the distributor hold down is tight. Just go grab it and try to spin it. If you can...well then.... God speed on the rear main is all I can say!
 
UPDATE:
checked the ohms on the leads and there all good, pulled the plugs, inspected and cleaned.
started c ar and sounds like one of the cylinders are not firing, going to check the coil and replace all plugs tomorrow.

BTW who tightens the plugs with a impact gun??? thats some crazy s**t lol.

what temp plugs should I be looking at? it had 6 in it at the moment my mate reckons run about an 8.

motor is a 505 9.8:1 comp.
 
a lot of mechanics use air ratchets and some used them on spark plugs when I was selling parts
If a shop sent back defective plugs the first question was do you use an air ratchet if so do not
a mechanic on flat rate will do what every they can to speed up work


re the temp of plug find some one to read the plug eg someone that races motorcycles
 
a lot of mechanics use air ratchets and some used them on spark plugs when I was selling parts
If a shop sent back defective plugs the first question was do you use an air ratchet if so do not
a mechanic on flat rate will do what every they can to speed up work


re the temp of plug find some one to read the plug eg someone that races motorcycles

You are full of sh@t. I was a mechanic for over 20 years and knew a hundred others and NONE of them would be stupid enough to put an air rachet on a spark plug.
 
I don't even use air tools to take my wheels off, everything is by hand on my old cars.
 
You are full of sh@t. I was a mechanic for over 20 years and knew a hundred others and NONE of them would be stupid enough to put an air rachet on a spark plug.

I have been out of the parts line for almost 20 years and some mechanics did use air ratchets on spark plugs because they were used to the old non resistor plugs with gaskets and now with nothing but resistor plugs no one should ever use air

A plug can also be damage when you regap the plug incorrectly
 
Air ratchets on spark plugs must be a Canadian Thing......
You guys also tighten your oil filters with a torque wrench?
Heh heh heh...
 
when shops have idiots they try to fix the problem as quietly as possible with out the public knowing I just happened to be in the middle
 
How quiet can you be by using an air ratchet?
 
had same problem pin that holds reluctor in the distributor broke and the car bad the longer it ran the worse it got.Bob
 
Here is something else being overlooked...Mechanical advance really isn't as reliable for "street driving." Most Mechanical advances I have seen were being used on racing applications. That's not saying it isn't done. But if your Charger is mostly street driven then ditch the mechanical and get a Vacuum advance in its place...just my 2 cents....
 
Here is something else being overlooked...Mechanical advance really isn't as reliable for "street driving." Most Mechanical advances I have seen were being used on racing applications. That's not saying it isn't done. But if your Charger is mostly street driven then ditch the mechanical and get a Vacuum advance in its place...just my 2 cents....


??????
EVERY distributor on every Mopar NON computer V8 has mechanical advance. EVERY stock distributor, every aftermarket distributor.
 
??????
EVERY distributor on every Mopar NON computer V8 has mechanical advance. EVERY stock distributor, every aftermarket distributor.

What I am referring to is the Canister that is in place for Vacuum Advance verses no Canister which means Mechanical Advance. To say that "Every" one is a Mechanical Advance is just not true. Stock Distributors on our Mopars came from the Factory with Vacuum advances which is a hose running from the Distributor Canister to the Carburetor Vacuum Port. The Canister can be adjusted along with the timing to help in operation of the motor. You might want to look a little closer at what is fact verses what you are stating....Unless we are talking about 2 very different and un-related pieces of equipment...
 
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