Hemirunner
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So far so good, but this doesn’t have a lot of miles on it yet. It does have a dozen or so 1/8 mile passes on it driving the dry sump which in turn, drives the mechanical fuel pump.
Solid Rollers or Flat Tappet for street and strip. Looking for LONGEVITY and low maintenance!
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65Fury440
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I had an A833 that day, unplugged the charging circuit as well. My quarter mile trap speeds say I had a lot less than 700 though. 4100 lbs @ 122. I don't power shift.
65Fury440
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I'd think those 2 items would be more than a HV oil pump, no?
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Oh but it's so much fun, I think especially with a 6bbl (keeps the outboard carbs open) and a rev limiter as insurance.
Hemirunner
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I’ve never set up any tests to measure the torque it takes to turn any of it. Just rationalizing it all, I can’t see a HV pump over a standard pump being enough additional force to cause a gear failure.
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One more note to add to the hydraulic vs solid lifter conversation. The well known (legendary some say) MOPAR engine builder who graces this forum from time to time whose voice kept echoing in my mind, admonishing the use of hydraulic rollers, he and I had a chat and he did make "an exception" in that a bushed lifter bore (which the BMP block has) can have the bushings finished to fit just right to assure proper performance of the hydraulic roller lifters. We agreed that solid rollers with relatively modest (vs heavy) spring pressures and a quality components properly setup rockers etc valvetrain should stay on the numbers and not require a lot of maintenance.
He also cautioned me to make sure the cam specs for LASH are reflective of the engine and heads being ALL ALUMINUM and that they expand a lot once heated.
To my benefit, my builder has been there, done that many times. Here's one of his MOPAR all aluminum RB strokers on the run stand:
And here's one he sent "down under"
He also cautioned me to make sure the cam specs for LASH are reflective of the engine and heads being ALL ALUMINUM and that they expand a lot once heated.
To my benefit, my builder has been there, done that many times. Here's one of his MOPAR all aluminum RB strokers on the run stand:
And here's one he sent "down under"
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I appreciate all of your replies.
Since I am having him build the engine, I am certainly going to have him run it, at minimum on a run stand, but I also have to discuss having him run it on a dyno.
I had my local builder, well known to me, my friends, and fellow car enthusiasts who I know, for a few decades we have known this guy, I had him run my wife's 421 (now 428) Pontiac on a run stand before I picked it up. I have nothing but respect and friendship for this local builder, but I'm not sure that the additional cost of the run stand episode was worth it. That's why I am not sure how I'm going to handle my 572 when it comes to that.
I'd like to be onsite for final assembly and whatever kind of running I may have done.
THAT would be ideal, especially if I can be there for valve lash adjustments, and to watch it run. My point is that I'm going to follow their lead and advise on lash. I mentioned that I have some factory valve covers that I can cut the tops off of to provide an "oil catch" for valve lash adjustments, although I can't run the engine with them on as that would spray oil all over. If they don't help I'll put them up for sale. I love the removable clear top valve covers I've seen @andyf run on the dyno, but I'm not going to buy or make those.
I have a couple of compartmented plastic boxes of Holley jets I'm going to bring or send them that I got for rejetting the 6bbl carbs, a relatively easy process with the Promax modded Holleys and non stick fuel bowl gaskets. I also am going to have the Progression Ignition system in it, so it would be great to be there to try a couple of "ignition maps" via the app.
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Hemirunner
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Looks to be a factory iron 440 block. I don’t know of any aftermarket aluminum blocks with these two bosses cast on.
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I grabbed the first 2 videos I could find easily. When I saw the painted block, I thought that someone may say something, and, well...
Lol. All good man! I posted pix of a Gen 2 Hemi type Bill Mitchell aluminum block that my builder had sent me pix of months ago, saying it was my block. What it was was very similar, and the 2019 "redesign" era BMP block, but no, it wasn't actually my block, and the forum caught that by the motor mounts (or lack thereof). It may have even been you who caught that, and I absolutely appreciate ALL of the replies from you and everyone else.
It's all ok. When I find the aluminum block and TF heads combo I saw the video of, I'll link it.
Thanks
440rb
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I personally wouldn't bother with the run stand, if you trust him, you trust him to build it well, take it straight to a proper dyno not a wheel one, easy to say as I'm not paying for it. There they can map things for max hp, jetting/afr etc., VE, you'll know the power on the day which isn't massively important but nice to know, would be more important if you had an auto for where torque is for verter choice.
When you run the car and get a good few 1/4 laps in it you'll know with your weight/mph the fwhp your getting (use Wallace calcs) and get a good idea of how far your off from that dyno hp number with whatever ancillaries/exhaust you have on there much like we worked it out.
Its the whole dyno tuning thing really like where the best timing is, max hp/ftlbs@rpm?, lash settings and the rest. I guess you know all of this anyway.
ps>I did my lash settings hot on the iron 440, no spill, set it once, never moved.
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Agreed and thanks again!
That's what I was trying to infer from my previous experience with the local trusted builder and the Pontiac 421 (now 428).
He said he had a "Rochester 2bbl expert" or maybe he called him a "Pontiac guy" who would come by and tune it, but I determined the 3 'chester 2bbl carbs really needed a professional to modify them, internal drilling of this and that, stuff I wouldn't dare try although I hope to learn a LOT more about tuning my Holley 6bbl and I have the manual by David Vizard...Maybe if I put it under my pillow, osmosis will ensue and the knowledge will move from the area of greater concentration to the void in my brain...
Just so no one misunderstands, I am happy with the job my local builder did on the Pontiac, and it has some very nice parts in it that have worked very well. I have been wondering what I can do to realize the full potential of the engine and the stuff it had and we changed, and it really comes down to the time to play around with it. I have never played with the ignition curve on the 421 Tripower, and the ignition system is a Pertronix billet aluminum distributor with the Ignitor III circuitry. I set the rev limiter and initial advance (w/vac removed) and that's about it. The ignition kit came with "a bunch of stuff" that at the least would allow me to change the advance relative to RPMs, and I believe also to limit total timing. I've only spent one day tweaking the 'chesters that were reworked by a real Pontiac racing "old school" guy who really knows his craft. My point is the run stand didn't accomplish much in that example, and I can't imagine having to pay extra for that again simply because I don't think there's any real advantage to it. Running on a dyno is a whole different thing, and that is what I'd like to see done, if I can afford it at the time, and I also would like to be there for the final assembly then off to the dyno, even if it means staying there a few days.
Oh, and the builder I have doing my 572 has a LOT of MOPAR specific experience and that is from A-Z of a build. In comparison, a lot of local MOPAR racers have my local builder (who did our Pontiac 421) do their short blocks, maybe long blocks, but they take it from there.
IQ52
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"I'd like to be there for the final assembly....."
There are things that need careful attention without any distraction. I've had an owner try to watch.....they pester you with questions, make suggestions, cannot stay out of the way and they sometime try to help.
I came across an old sign my Dad had in his shop and I know why he had it.
Shop labor....$50/hr
You watch....$75/hr
You help.....$100/hr
Were I building your engine there is no way you would be allowed in the room to watch......unless you paid a $5,000 premium and stood outside looking through a sound proof window.
Love you Brother, but those would be my rules.
Wanna be there for dyno runs. Sure after I fired it and made some preliminary pulls.
There are things that need careful attention without any distraction. I've had an owner try to watch.....they pester you with questions, make suggestions, cannot stay out of the way and they sometime try to help.
I came across an old sign my Dad had in his shop and I know why he had it.
Shop labor....$50/hr
You watch....$75/hr
You help.....$100/hr
Were I building your engine there is no way you would be allowed in the room to watch......unless you paid a $5,000 premium and stood outside looking through a sound proof window.
Love you Brother, but those would be my rules.
Wanna be there for dyno runs. Sure after I fired it and made some preliminary pulls.
vintage chromoly
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Vizard’s book is a good one.
68 HEMI GTS
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I would charge double for someone who wants to be there for final assembly. Reason, it’s going to end up taking 2-3x longer min. Call it teachers tax.
68 HEMI GTS
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I found it to be pretty basic. Really had nothing more than a few basics. Doesn’t seem to be much out there for advanced tuners.
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Your advice, comments, concerns, admonishment, and even the occasional "atta-boy" are always welcome Jim, and before I read about "the sign" your dad had, I was just getting the tap on my mind's shoulder of that exact thing. I can't stand for a client's staff member to shadow me, but some of the facilities I work at practically require it because of the nature of their patients' "condition" that has them there to begin with. Even places like that usually give me space, doing something in another room or area. I don't know if I could work with someone looking over my shoulder, so I "get it".
STILL THOUGH....
I would like to see the lash set, but I will verbally probe around the edges to see if I can "get there early" when I go pick up my engine in person (to save money and make sure it's not damaged in shipping, of course...)
That works too!!
Thanks for the reply, and please don't ever let me mistakenly misrepresent anything you may tell me when we talk shop, and if there's anything that isn't obvious that you don't want me to publish, let me know so I don't make that mistake either (like those top secret cam specs you shared with me, guaranteed to get 50 more horsepower out of ANY engine)
LOL just kidding guys!!
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Well you may find it to be "basic" but basic to you may be an epiphany to me
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...I won't say I wouldn't love to witness that too, but you are about the only person I can think of that I would have absolutely zero concern about you missing even the slightest detail in a MOPAR build.
My builder was relating a story about a "Chevy builder" that a MOPAR guy brought a R3 to, and the builder missed installing a 'unique to MOPAR' oil passage plug in the block, which caused problems of course.
My demand that a builder has MOPAR specific experience (not exclusively MOPAR, but inclusively, or primarily MOPAR, like my guy) is not so much for being able to do a competent build, I would hope ANY builder who would accept a MOPAR build would at least have the integrity to turn the job down if he wasn't "up to" the job of correctly putting one together. MY main reason for MOPAR experience is that I believe there are unique inherent engineering/design attributes to MOPAR engines (and other brands as well), and in order to get the most out of those inherent strengths, and not suffer from any inherent weaknesses, well only a MOPAR experienced builder can do that best.
recieved mine last week from hughes, seems mancini is selling the unit from hughes, carrys the same part number and hughes direct was 2.00 cheaper ! FYI it is the same length as the milodon unit that they spec'ed for there high volume pump.
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