where did u get that ? and is it assembled onto a drive shaft already ? thanks. i just did a quick search and came up empty.I run a melonized gear. No worries about the cam core material or wear.
where did u get that ? and is it assembled onto a drive shaft already ? thanks. i just did a quick search and came up empty.I run a melonized gear. No worries about the cam core material or wear.
Mancini Racing - B/RB & Hemi Oil Pump Drive Shaft with Coated Gearwhere did u get that ? and is it assembled onto a drive shaft already ? thanks. i just did a quick search and came up empty.
Thanks, that is something I was formerly totally unaware of as being "better" but my builder certainly knew (I understand, that may be "common knowledge" but not to me) so, again, that freed me to choose the 572 vs 541.I run a Minimum of a single external line on all
my strokers. Very cheap insurance and a easier
path for oil pickup!
thanks for the link, it says not to use with high volume pumps though which is what i have, along with single external pickup. wonder how long it would last, better regardless than bronze ?
thanks for the link, it says not to use with high volume pumps though which is what i have, along with single external pickup. wonder how long it would last, better regardless than bronze ?
great ! sometimes those rules r just guide lines until 1 trys it,,i looked at options before but nothing was there for the mopar guys. mainly chevy and fords. so i resorted to the grinding option..i run an external pressure adj so i can turn the oil pressure down to acceptable levels,,usually cutting off 2 coils of the spring to get it at around 40-50 lbs idle and 80 at wide open. sounds like things have changed for the better,,there was gears only but u had to install the gear on the shaft yourself. not an option here.I talked to a few guys that use this (same as Hughes? not sure) with a HV pump. Do a search, I think there are a couple posts about it. I have maybe 1000 hard miles on mine, looks like the day it was installed.
great ! sometimes those rules r just guide lines until 1 trys it,,i looked at options before but nothing was there for the mopar guys. mainly chevy and fords. so i resorted to the grinding option..i run an external pressure adj so i can turn the oil pressure down to acceptable levels,,usually cutting off 2 coils of the spring to get it at around 40-50 lbs idle and 80 at wide open. sounds like things have changed for the better,,there was gears only but u had to install the gear on the shaft yourself. not an option here.
probably true,,as i said i turn down the pressure with the external milodon adj nut..defeating the purpose ? maybe. but i dont want 100 lbs pressure..on your HV pump do u do the same with an adjuster ? its been my experiance without it the pressure is enormous.Wouldn't a high pressure pump put close to, or as much resistance on the shaft as a HV at moderate pressure?
For my junk, I have a HV, but, thought the melonized would be a better gamble than brass. So far so good though.
probably true,,as i said i turn down the pressure with the external milodon adj nut..defeating the purpose ? maybe. but i dont want 100 lbs pressure..on your HV pump do u do the same with an adjuster ? its been my experiance without it the pressure is enormous.
i just looked at the hughes unit also,,they dont mention how long they r,,for HV pumps milodon sells a longer unit to fully engage the pump drive..my milodon drive is 8" long..any thoughts ?My relief spring is stock, so it tops out around 80 psi hot or cold, so that seems fine.
i just looked at the hughes unit also,,they dont mention how long they r,,for HV pumps milodon sells a longer unit to fully engage the pump drive..my milodon drive is 8" long..any thoughts ?
mostly street or mostly race ?For my junk, I have a HV, but, thought the melonized would be a better gamble than brass. So far so good though.
mostly street or mostly race ?
and no wear...thats interesting. in the past i have had to remove the cam and grind the gear to stop premature bronze gear failure..Big PITA..my car came with a 1970's roller cam and bronze gear,,the bronze gear was near perfect condition because the cam had an xtra radius on the teeth, No sharp edges. i think i mite have to try 1 of these drive units,,Thanks!Mostly street race lol.
Have been tuning and breaking in clutch/Passon before hitting prepped surfaces.
Please refresh my memory, since you are using a Passon 5 speed as well (love mine, and the switch from 3.54 to 4.10 it allows is a HOOT!) what are your engine specs, displacement, induction, and HP/TQ?Mostly street race lol.
Have been tuning and breaking in clutch/Passon before hitting prepped surfaces.
650ish to the wheels, figure appx 10% power loss thru the drive train = 715+ on the dyno !520ci, 11.25 C/R, TF 240s ported to flow around 360 cfm, 268/272 @ 50 solid roller, 337 intake with Dominator, I also have 4:10s,
Last incarnation of engine was the same except 10:1 CR, 260/266 SFT.
Put down 650/680 to the wheels. Haven't gotten the new setup to the dyno yet.
I heard about those melonized gears how do they work??I run a melonized gear. No worries about the cam core material or wear.
A 727 eats up more than 10%.650ish to the wheels, figure appx 10% power loss thru the drive train = 715+ on the dyno !