Someone removed my entire front suspension...

[pdiz]

So some "idiot" removed every part of my entire front suspension a "couple" years ago (engine/trans/K-member not removed), and now he can't figure out in what order to re-assemble.

The car is a '73 Road Runner. Frontend is on jack stands.

This "idiot" sandblasted and painted and/or RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) every piece that could rust.

This "idiot" figured out how to remove/reinstall the bushings in place for the LCA arm using a Harbor Freight press, and even figured out how to weld a strengthening plate to them.
This "idiot" has Firm Feel's tubular UCA.
This "idiot" even removed and reinstalled the rear torsion-bar cross-member and installed solid bushings after sandblasting and painting that piece. "Idiot" even figured out how to install solid bushings on the K-frame, etc.

This "idiot" is armed with all new MOOG suspension bushings, ready-to-go LCAs, ready-to-go spindles, but is confused about what can be assembled/torqued off the car, what can be assembled but not torqued until the car is on the ground, etc. What to do first? Second? Third?

"Idiot" does have a shop manual, full tools, including 250 ft. lb. torque wrenches and compressor and pneumatic tools and even Mopar ball joint sockets, etc.

But now "idiot" is staring at a bunch of parts off the car and doesn't know in what order he should proceed...

So far, he's done this:

Installed the floating torsion-bar rear crossmember using solid bushings, torqued to “only” 35 ft. lbs. at the recommendation of Firm Feel (they aren’t Firm Feel’s parts, but they are from a defunct company called “solidbushings.com").

He's looking at this:

spindles, knuckle arm, caliper bracket, torsion bars, full MOOG bushings, etc.… torque now, or just mate it all up and torque it later? What should go on first, though? Tie rod ends? Pitman arm? UCA? LCA? Spindle?

"Idiot" would prefer someone that can explain to him like he's three, and if it's very detailed, can even thank them with beer/PayPal/etc.

"Idiot" can look up torque specs from the factory manual, and even procedures, but it's difficult when EVERYTHING is disassembled due to the "modular" way the factory manual is written.

"Idiot" is just looking for something like:

CAR OFF GROUND, so…

(EXAMPLE ONLY

1. Install strut rods to car at this point… DON’T TORQUE UNTIL CAR ON GROUND ** OR** Install strut rods to LCA and torque to spec, THEN install strut rod to car, but don’t TORQUE until car on ground

2. Install spindle knuckle and torque down BEFORE putting on car

That kind of stuff… And is looking for where to begin...

"Idiot" may be me, but don't tell anyone.

 

[kiwigtx]

Don't be too harsh with yourself the idiot.

 

[moparedtn]

Does this "idiot" own a Factory Service Manual? If not, add that to the list of dumb moves.

Here, find ya something similar and free on here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[kiwigtx]

Does this "idiot" own a Factory Service Manual? If not, add that to the list of dumb moves.

Here, find ya something similar and free on here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[WP29440SE]

jeeze man , if I was over there, it would be a roller in 2 hrs.
I could sit here and explain it but it sounds like I'd be wasting my time lol

 

[super-bee_ski]

So some "idiot" removed every part of my entire front suspension a "couple" years ago (engine/trans/K-member not removed), and now he can't figure out in what order to re-assemble.

The car is a '73 Road Runner. Frontend is on jack stands.

This "idiot" sandblasted and painted and/or RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) every piece that could rust.

This "idiot" figured out how to remove/reinstall the bushings in place for the LCA arm using a Harbor Freight press, and even figured out how to weld a strengthening plate to them.
This "idiot" has Firm Feel's tubular UCA.
This "idiot" even removed and reinstalled the rear torsion-bar cross-member and installed solid bushings after sandblasting and painting that piece. "Idiot" even figured out how to install solid bushings on the K-frame, etc.

This "idiot" is armed with all new MOOG suspension bushings, ready-to-go LCAs, ready-to-go spindles, but is confused about what can be assembled/torqued off the car, what can be assembled but not torqued until the car is on the ground, etc. What to do first? Second? Third?

"Idiot" does have a shop manual, full tools, including 250 ft. lb. torque wrenches and compressor and pneumatic tools and even Mopar ball joint sockets, etc.

But now "idiot" is staring at a bunch of parts off the car and doesn't know in what order he should proceed...

So far, he's done this:

Installed the floating torsion-bar rear crossmember using solid bushings, torqued to “only” 35 ft. lbs. at the recommendation of Firm Feel (they aren’t Firm Feel’s parts, but they are from a defunct company called “solidbushings.com").

He's looking at this:

spindles, knuckle arm, caliper bracket, torsion bars, full MOOG bushings, etc.… torque now, or just mate it all up and torque it later? What should go on first, though? Tie rod ends? Pitman arm? UCA? LCA? Spindle?

"Idiot" would prefer someone that can explain to him like he's three, and if it's very detailed, can even thank them with beer/PayPal/etc.

"Idiot" can look up torque specs from the factory manual, and even procedures, but it's difficult when EVERYTHING is disassembled due to the "modular" way the factory manual is written.

"Idiot" is just looking for something like:

CAR OFF GROUND, so…

(EXAMPLE ONLY

1. Install strut rods to car at this point… DON’T TORQUE UNTIL CAR ON GROUND ** OR** Install strut rods to LCA and torque to spec, THEN install strut rod to car, but don’t TORQUE until car on ground

2. Install spindle knuckle and torque down BEFORE putting on car

That kind of stuff… And is looking for where to begin...

"Idiot" may be me, but don't tell anyone.

Easily recoverable...unless if you live near one of our Superstar Moderators..."KIWI"....all is replaceable, cost effectively...
Forum can talk you through it..
(Happened to me and the 70' Superbee 2005)

 

[super-bee_ski]

Does this "idiot" own a Factory Service Manual? If not, add that to the list of dumb moves.

Here, find ya something similar and free on here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

Yeah, s#it happens...Come on Ed', not everyone (including me...) is as smart as you...

 

[pdiz]

Well, if you re-read the original post, "idiot" DOES have a FACTORY service manual... And not the bootleg CD, but the REAL tree-based book! But again, does not explain the order of things when EVERYTHING is off... Maybe "idiot" is overthinking all of it and needs the experience/confidence, or even a Mopar friend to show him...

I know, maybe I'll ask a specific question... I have an LCA, a spindle, and a strut arm, all off the car... I'm guessing I can torque down the strut arms to the LCA (160 FT. LBS!) as well as the LBJ (155 FT. LBS!) while off the car (a little difficult to do unless you stand on the part) and then mate it all up to the vehicle, or should I mount it all up, finger tight, and THEN torque (with car in air or on ground, etc.) Obviously certain things don't matter if the car is under load or not, I can figure that out, but it just seems like I don't have enough confidence/experience... I mean, I taught myself to sandblast, weld, press in/out bushings, etc., so I THINK I can do this... It just seems so overwhelming, but maybe as I install stuff, it will all "come together"... Sigh... Anyone in Southern California and want to earn a few bucks? Just saying, I pay for expertise, etc. Sometimes it's easier to visualize it when someone does it versus a tiny badly printed '70s graphic in a manual that is the size of a postage stamp...

I appreciate any and all responses, for real, guys, you're the best!

 

[Nate S]

The way I would do it is mount the steering box and idler arm then attach the link. Tighten everything as you go. Can’t forget that way. Then I’d put the rod ends into the tie rods and mount the inner end to the cross link. I’d leave these adjustments loose, let tie rods hang. Next I’d pull bushings into k-frame and install LCAs. Before tightening I’d put in torsion bars, don’t forget rubber boot, driving it home with a socket, don’t forget clip. I’d then put the torsion bar adjusters in followed by tension bolt and wind in a little way. Then tighten LCA and strut.

Next I’d put in the UCA with cams in a neutral position. Tighten. Next I’d do the upper ball joint then lower ball joint. Then mount spindle to both and tighten. I’d then tension the torsion bar a bit just to make sure it’s not on the wrong side. Assemble brakes. Gravity bleed brakes. Tighten torsion bars further. Put on wheels and lower.

Adjust front end height bouncing it between adjustments. Adjust caster, then camber, then toe. Use a pair of 12”x12” 1/16” steel plates with a big patty of grease in between under each tire so it all slides freely. Check that wheel is centered and readjust tie rods. Visually align front wheels to rear for this.

Might be forgetting something like the sway bar but that should go on dead last anyway. Have fun! Assembly should take 4-6 hours if you’re being careful. Alignment in the garage another 2.

 

[pdiz]

jeeze man , if I was over there, it would be a roller in 2 hrs.
I could sit here and explain it but it sounds like I'd be wasting my time lol

Proof is in the pudding, bud... Try me. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, and I mean EVERYTHING... I'm a computer guy, but learned to weld, sandblast, use a press, etc. I'm TRYING, man, I'm TRYING... But no need to think you'd be wasting your time... I have a good heart, a willingness to learn, and once I got it, I got it... I would be very thankful.

 

[Ironbuilt]

1973 Dodge Chassis Service Manual

Click the link and have the "Idiot" read Chapter 2

 

[pdiz]

The way I would do it is mount the steering box and idler arm then attach the link. Tighten everything as you go. Can’t forget that way. Then I’d put the rod ends into the tie rods and mount the inner end to the cross link. I’d leave these adjustments loose, let tie rods hang. Next I’d pull bushings into k-frame and install LCAs. Before tightening I’d put in torsion bars, don’t forget rubber boot, driving it home with a socket, don’t forget clip. I’d then put the torsion bar adjusters in followed by tension bolt and wind in a little way. Then tighten LCA and strut.

Next I’d put in the UCA with cams in a neutral position. Tighten. Next I’d do the upper ball joint then lower ball joint. Then mount spindle to both and tighten. I’d then tension the torsion bar a bit just to make sure it’s not on the wrong side. Assemble brakes. Gravity bleed brakes. Tighten torsion bars further. Put on wheels and lower.

Adjust front end height bouncing it between adjustments. Adjust caster, then camber, then toe. Use a pair of 12”x12” 1/16” steel plates with a big patty of grease in between under each tire so it all slides freely. Check that wheel is centered and readjust tie rods. Visually align front wheels to rear for this.

Might be forgetting something like the sway bar but that should go on dead last anyway. Have fun! Assembly should take 4-6 hours if you’re being careful. Alignment in the garage another 2.

Thanks for being nice and spelling it out for me! ... I can update you (PM or here) on how it went... Everyone has their specialty. I've never done this before. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, not an excuse for ignorance, but just because I have a bit of a learning disability, and it takes me a while to conceptualize things. Anyway, I will keep you updated on how it went, if you want. I can't thank you enough! Back to the garage for me...

 

[Larrry B.]

Find an exploded diagram, preferably with all parts numbered and listed on the side. Gather everything on your garage floor with any stands or blocks you may need, and assemble it first, on the floor. You'll figure out how to put it together however long it takes and in what order. Videos on YouTube, plenty of info on various forums. Once you've done that you'll know what your doing. Then you can put it back on your car with far less guesswork.

The hobby can be overwhelming but you need to put the work in one way or another.

 

[moparedtn]

View attachment 972220

 

[WP29440SE]

Proof is in the pudding, bud... Try me. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, and I mean EVERYTHING... I'm a computer guy, but learned to weld, sandblast, use a press, etc. I'm TRYING, man, I'm TRYING... But no need to think you'd be wasting your time... I have a good heart, a willingness to learn, and once I got it, I got it... I would be very thankful.

ok , slide lca and strut rod into k member together. make sure inside strut rod bushings are on the rod, once through install outside SR bushings. you can start the nuts. the adjuster in the lca to put pressure on the torsion bar should be mounted, with adjuster screw all the way out. slide torsion bar in. push down lca until torsion bar slides in the lca and T bar mount. Tap t bar in , install t bar retainer clip in Mount.
repeat for other side.
go out and get that far first. oh yeah, a little bearing grease on the ends of the torsion bar, and don't forget the grease boot that the torsion bar uses? I think on the inside of the mount. **** , now I forgot lol
I will seriously walk you through this if it will help

 

[moparedtn]

Yeah, s#it happens...Come on Ed', not everyone (including me...) is as smart as you...

I almost hit the red X on this one....everyone literally IS as smart as me and (I pray) smarter.

 

[pdiz]

ok , slide lca and strut rod into k member. you can start the nuts. the adjuster in the lca to put pressure on the torsion bar should be mounted, with adjuster screw all the way out. slide torsion bar in. push down lca until torsion bar slides in the lca and mount. tap T bar in , install t bar retainer clip in Mount.
repeat for other side.
go out and get that far first

Thank you, sir! Will do this tonight and update you in the morning! Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE, I just needed a bit of confidence. I think maybe "the Rona" is affecting my brain lately!

 

[Ironbuilt]

Thank you, sir! Will do this tonight and update you in the morning! Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE, I just needed a bit of confidence. I think maybe "the Rona" is affecting my brain lately!

Next tine the Idiot (you) takes something apart, take plenty of pictures and document everything. Also label ALL parts, nuts and bolts, it makes life easier when it comes time for the install.
I give you a lot of credit, IT NEVER HURTS TO ASK!!!

 

[DeltaV]

The car is a '73 Road Runner. Frontend is on jack stands.

What brand of jack stands?


BTW, Idiots use cinder blocks.

 

[WP29440SE]

Thank you, sir! Will do this tonight and update you in the morning! Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE, I just needed a bit of confidence. I think maybe "the Rona" is affecting my brain lately!

in the FSM , it will show if there is a grease boot that the T bar has to slide through. before full installation. I'm sure you will get plenty of help from others, that will remember stuff I dont