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!st start up - PLEASE HELP

jerry

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68 Coronet - all new wiring-new restore Trying to heat things up for the first time and the wire fromn the trans (neutral wire) smokes. Put in new starter relay, same thing. (It goes on the terminal with the screw, right?)
Now I have no power at all. Before, head and tail lights worked. Now, no power at fuse box. Check at fusible link, power on engine side of firewall, not at dash side......
What the %#&!
Had to leave after that.
Any ideas?
 
Need to take a close look at the junction block for any melted connectors.Then start with basic diagnostics.
 
Found that fusible link had a broken tip. Replaced it and now can't connect battery or ZAP. Removed all fuses in box, no help. Removed cable to starter relay and OK. Problem is somewhere between relay and fuse box. How can I pinpoint problem in entire dash harness?
Jerry
 
Found that fusible link had a broken tip. Replaced it and now can't connect battery or ZAP. Removed all fuses in box, no help. Removed cable to starter relay and OK. Problem is somewhere between relay and fuse box. How can I pinpoint problem in entire dash harness?
Jerry

You've got a live wire going straight to ground some where's. did a wire get pinched between the bell housings during engine install? or against the body or chassis some where's?
 
Does the car have an "amp" gauge??Did you remove the harness connectors at the junction box?
 
The connector for the transmisson safety does not go on the screw or the screwed stud, it should have a spade connector if you have the single pole switch on the transmission which, based on the year should. The spade connector for the trans goes on the lower right post marked with the "G". I would guess that is the short you have....hope you didn't fry anything.
 

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Red63 is correct,the trans neutral safety circuit provides the" GROUND" for the relay in park or neutral.
 
I do have the single wire neutral switch, and I did heat it up for a second.
I do have the ampmeter and last night Idisconnected it and still have short. This is with both other plugs on bulkhead disconnected. So I have to figure there is a serious short in the dash. I unplugged all switches with no help. The ign switch included. Could I have fried the dash circuit board? Is there a test for the ampmeter?
I don't have my windshield in yet (thankfully) so I guess I'll have to remove the dash.
A true PITA.
 
Anyone have a spare standard dash cluster, just in case?
 
When you were unplugging the connectors at the bulkhead,did you notice any melted wires?For you to have a dead short,something melted causing a direct short.It is common for the ammeter circut to overheat and melt.The red wire goes through the bulkhead,through the ignition switch and then the amp gauge.You have some homework to do:munky2:
 
No melty wires... How can I check ammeter?
 
All power to the car pretty much goes from the battery to the starter to the starter relay.Well let me ask you,is your battery in the front or trunk?Does the positive cable coming off the battery have any pigtail wires sending power anywhere else?
 
The connector for the transmisson safety does not go on the screw or the screwed stud, it should have a spade connector if you have the single pole switch on the transmission which, based on the year should. The spade connector for the trans goes on the lower right post marked with the "G". I would guess that is the short you have....hope you didn't fry anything.

red is correct. that's your problem. you got the nuetral wire on the wrong terminal,thats why you smoked it. .
 
OK, lets say I smoked it with the neutral wire in wrong spot....
What smoked? Relay? Ammeter?, Dash?.....
I have the car home now , and will begin dash removal (#@%&!).
Thankfully windshield was not installed yet. I think I would've had to take a break.
I truly appreciate all of your help.
Jerry
 
I third that, the relay was wired wrong, the neutral safty switch supplies ground but enough of that. I would bet you smoked the relay by grounding it out. Replace it and retry. DONT pull the dash yet
 
I agree, start small and work your way up....
 
A trick I learned is remove one terminal from battery and add a 12V bulb between. If all switches are off and bulb is lit you have a positive shorted to ground. If you remove each fuse and see the bulb go off you have narrowed it down to that circuit. If you have all the plugs out and it is lit then remove one wire at a time until it goes out, that's your short. It's can be tedious but you might get lucky on the first few tries.
 
Good ideas - I will get another relay tomorrow and start again. I have started using a test light between rather than zap the wires. I will stay aboard.
Jerry
 
Alright, good news finally. Found the problem. My damn connector at the bulkhead had wires not lining up with correct wires in dash harness. Called M and H and they had never heard of this. Anyway, I have power at lights and power to turn over motor. Finally. Now just waiting for help with first start on fresh motor. Not sure about timing, so I will wait for help.I added zinc to oil. Any other safegaurds I need to worry about?
Thanks
 
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