Stalling issue

[artr8]

I don't know if this is directly related but; read the story.
Small block in a Plymouth would run fantastic. Then, while idling at a stop light, would stop like I turned the switch off. Would not start in neutral but would in park. Doesn't make sense, does it?
The problem, we added an aftermarket distributor. You know one of the self contained. At idle, with the added load of brakelights would pull enough voltage to drop out the 12V needed by the distributor. When restarting in neutral, had the foot on the brake. (also part of the problem was a low output alternator with a large pulley)
The cure was to put a relay powered by the car signal for ignition. The power source ran from the battery, through the relay, to the ignition system to provide the full 12v needed. Cured all of the run problems.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Flapper in the heat tube stuck allowing hot exhaust to the intake all the time, causing vapor lock?

 

[Richard Cranium]

When it dies, does it slowly lose RPM or is like someone flipped a switch and just cuts off?

Sounds fuel related to me.

It will start to run a bit rough for a couple of seconds, then it dies.

 

[miller]

New coil, or not, think I'd try another coil. That would eliminate that part of the puzzle, in the ignition. All wiring/connectors, I take it, are top notch?

 

[69L48Z27]

It will start to run a bit rough for a couple of seconds, then it dies.

When it starts running rough can it coaxed back or does it still die?

 

[Richard Cranium]

When it starts running rough can it coaxed back or does it still die?

You can two foot it, but if you take your foot off the gas, it will die in a couple seconds.

 

[69L48Z27]

Sounds like some form of heat soak to me, or float level. I know you said it has a separator, see if that’s working. When it fires back up does it seem rich out the exhaust? Pull some plugs and see what they look like.

Next time it does it I would pull the air cleaner and stick your head in there and see if there’s a bunch of fuel (or lack of) going through the carb.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Sounds like some form of heat soak to me, or float level. I know you said it has a separator, see if that’s working. When it fires back up does it seem rich out the exhaust? Pull some plugs and see what they look like.

Next time it does it I would pull the air cleaner and stick your head in there and see if there’s a bunch of fuel (or lack of) going through the carb.

Done that, no fuel leaking. He had an issue with the fuse link wire melting a bit on the bulkhead side a few years ago & I wonder if this might be worth looking at.

 

[snakeoil24]

is it hot or is their a voltage drop??

 

[Richard Cranium]

Well, he pulled out the bulkhead connectors and saw a nice burn on the fuse link wire on the bulkhead side. As you can see, besides being melted, the connector inside the plastic is pretty roached out. A replacement bulkhead connector is on order.

 

[Dennis H]

It’s always that goddamed bulkhead.

 

[bearman]

looks like you found the gremlin. now what caused that to happen.

 

[oldbee]

Possibly old age? Fewer copper strands trying to do their job?

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm not sure which wire that would be for but my guess it's a high amperage wire. The terminal in the bulkhead is probably not up to the task. I would make that a solid wire eliminating the terminal. Maybe a inline fusable link with the right rating.

 

[Kern Dog]

It makes sense. As the engine warms up, so does everything under the hood. Hot shredded wires cannot hold the current.

 

[Richard Cranium]

He replaced the bulkhead connector & the questionable wires and so far, so good.

 

[Fran Blacker]

It's fun chasing gremlins, Not!

 

[Dennis H]

Dies in the fast lane or burns to the ground. Usually the same source. Bulkhead.

 

[RJRENTON]

Sounds like it needs to be put out of its misery.....i'll buy it....
Bob Renton

 

[snakeoil24]

He replaced the bulkhead connector & the questionable wires and so far, so good.

take an infrared temp gun and run it over the wires after