Starter clicks despite 12.4v.

[Geoff 2]

That must be a realllllllllllllly 'special' battery & starter that cranks 'just fine' with 10 volts......

 

[WileE]

New aftermarket starter. That says it all. Get the starter rebuilt by a knowledgeable, reputable rebuilder.

 

[3sloppydogs]

Everything that Bob said and additionally the two stationary contacts can be loosened and turned 180 to provide new contact area

 

[RJRENTON]

New aftermarket starter. That says it all. Get the starter rebuilt by a knowledgeable, reputable rebuilder.

Most, if not all "mini or compact" new starters use rare earth permanent magnets in lieu of wound field coils, to reduce physical size and therefore deliver more amps to the armature for greater starting torque. ......just thought you might like to know the reason....
BOB RENTON

 

[WileE]

Most, if not all "mini or compact" new starters use rare earth permanent magnets in lieu of wound field coils, to reduce physical size and therefore deliver more amps to the armature for greater starting torque. ......just thought you might like to know the reason....
BOB RENTON

I'd assumed it was the original configuration. OP did not indicate it is a mini/compact starter.

 

[RJRENTON]

I'd assumed it was the original configuration. OP did not indicate it is a mini/compact starter.

Doesn't matter.....both have the main current carrying contacts on the back of the solenoid, which operates the "Bendix" and engages the drive AND powers the motor....same principle.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

The major challenge for reliable starter operation is adequate current availability not voltage..
If U monitor the current when activating the starter, one will see the starter can pull from 50 amps to 75 amps, but the battery voltage typically will decrease below 12V...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Geoff 2]

'adequate current availability not voltage'........

There is NO current flow without voltage. And the current that the starter draws is a looooot more than 75 amps, actually several hundred amps when cranking.

 

[Sinitro]

'adequate current availability not voltage'........

There is NO current flow without voltage. And the current that the starter draws is a looooot more than 75 amps, actually several hundred amps when cranking.

To validate..
Of course U need to have enough available voltage..
But my point is that the amount of current is the crucial factor.
Attach a voltmeter and amp meter to the starter lines.
Next crank the starter and monitor the attached meters.
The battery voltage will sag until the starter has enough current to turn.
Note that the amount of current required varies depending upon multiple factors such as engine compression, starter type as the older reduction gear(mopar style) or one of the later min starters(nippon denso type) with the more efficient magnet structure.

Just my $0.02...

 

[1KoolBee]

Start with the simple stuff first , don’t just start replacing sh*t. That way you won’t feel like an idiot later. Don’t ask me how I know!

 

[RJRENTON]

'adequate current availability not voltage'........

There is NO current flow without voltage. And the current that the starter draws is a looooot more than 75 amps, actually several hundred amps when cranking.

Ohm's law prevails [ E = I x R ]......IF ....resistance (R) is zero (or near zero), voltage (E) drop will be zero (or some small value), but current (I) will try to get to infinity or to the maximum available at the supply source (car's battery in this case)......limited by the current carrying conductor's ampacity.....or fusable links rating if present. .........just another example.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Sixpactogo]

That must be a realllllllllllllly 'special' battery & starter that cranks 'just fine' with 10 volts......

I agree totally. 10 Volts is dead in every battery I tested.