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Starter or switch

milit73

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I have a 68 superbee with a 383 and I have just replaced the starter and I am having the same problem. I go to start the car and the engine turns over but not really like clicking very fast then it kicks in and turns over fine. Could my ignition switch be bad as it seems like it does not make good contact at times. Probably a dumb question but just finally getting back to working on my car and this is an on going problem. The battery is older also but seems to be good.
 
Could be a number of things including the battery but that's where I usually start at when I check for electrical problems. Good battery, connections etc. It's possible the starter is still the problem. Make sure the connections at the relay are good too...
 
I'm with cranky...based on your description it sounds like the battery. Use another battery/jumper cables + donor car to see if it gets any better. If not, then you know its not the battery. But might as well start there.
 
It the motor is strugling to start and takes a bit to fire then I'm going to say your battery is not big enough.

Get yourself the biggest cranking amp batter that will fit in your battery tray.

I use a group 27 battery that is over 800 cold cranking amps.

The local parts store kept trying to give me a modern day car battery and they just don't have the poop.
 
I just crossed the terminals on the starter relay and it starts fine without the slow clicking over problem. So my thought is that the ignition is not making a good contact as sometimes it does not even turn over using the key until I wiggle it a little bit. Is there a way to fix that or just replace it all together? Thanks again for the help
 
I just crossed the terminals on the starter relay and it starts fine without the slow clicking over problem. So my thought is that the ignition is not making a good contact as sometimes it does not even turn over using the key until I wiggle it a little bit. Is there a way to fix that or just replace it all together? Thanks again for the help
I was right for once! Maybe your key pins are worn out, you could try spraying some electronic cleaner inside it or get a new key made.
 
I was right for once! Maybe your key pins are worn out, you could try spraying some electronic cleaner inside it or get a new key made.
The tumblers inside only allow the right key to be used to turn the switch and do not make any electrical contact but the switch may not be making contact within the switch itself. Those used to be cheap from the auto parts stores and are easy to change in the pre 70 cars. I used to always carry a spare but it was mainly to use on cars that I was buying and if the owner couldn't find the key, I could still start up a running car within a few minutes without digging into the wiring. I thought about crossing the terminals on the relay but many do not know about that and usually end up doing damage. If it's starting up good doing that, then it may be the switch or maybe the firewall connector is losing contact. That alone makes for a lot of problems even when these cars were fairly new.
 
The tumblers inside only allow the right key to be used to turn the switch and do not make any electrical contact but the switch may not be making contact within the switch itself. Those used to be cheap from the auto parts stores and are easy to change in the pre 70 cars. I used to always carry a spare but it was mainly to use on cars that I was buying and if the owner couldn't find the key, I could still start up a running car within a few minutes without digging into the wiring. I thought about crossing the terminals on the relay but many do not know about that and usually end up doing damage. If it's starting up good doing that, then it may be the switch or maybe the firewall connector is losing contact. That alone makes for a lot of problems even when these cars were fairly new.
He said he has to wiggle the key to get it to engage. So possibly the key is worn down and not pushing up all the tumblers (get a new key made) or they have dirt inside so I suggested cleaning it with electrical spray because it dries and won't damage anything. And it could be what you said but he should start off with simple stuff before he goes and changes a switch.
 
He said he has to wiggle the key to get it to engage. So possibly the key is worn down and not pushing up all the tumblers (get a new key made) or they have dirt inside so I suggested cleaning it with electrical spray because it dries and won't damage anything. And it could be what you said but he should start off with simple stuff before he goes and changes a switch.
The tumbers that the key moves when you insert it....do not make electrical contact and getting a new key won't make any difference but if it starts when the key is wiggled, that means the switch itself is worn and it needs a new switch. The key/tumblers only allow the switch to be turned. Years ago, I took all the tumblers out of a switch just to mess with a buddy and one day I started up his car with a blank key then slid the key back out while it was still running and handed the key to him. The look on his face was priceless! It only takes a few minutes to swap out the complete switch.....
 
The tumbers that the key moves when you insert it....do not make electrical contact and getting a new key won't make any difference but if it starts when the key is wiggled, that means the switch itself is worn and it needs a new switch. The key/tumblers only allow the switch to be turned. Years ago, I took all the tumblers out of a switch just to mess with a buddy and one day I started up his car with a blank key then slid the key back out while it was still running and handed the key to him. The look on his face was priceless! It only takes a few minutes to swap out the complete switch.....

I know it doesn't make electrical contact but he never said if the key was locked up or not before he started wiggling to start it, so the jury is still out.
 
Get a volt meter and check for 12volts on the small wire at the starter solenoid when you hit the key.Watch to see what the voltage doe's when you wiggle the key aposed to just holding it on.Then post the results.
Some times cables from the battery have high resistance due to age/corrosion.Your starter will pull about 100 Amps from the batt but if the cables are junk or the battery connections are dirty/loose you won't get the power needed.Also you could have a few dead cells in the batt or it's cranking amps are not high enough as mentioned before.Most parts stores will test your batt and starter for free.But as Cranky said it's very likely that the switch is to blame but it could also be a combo of all the above.
Here is how to check the Batt your self:
using a voltmeter if the engine does crank, but the battery voltage drops below 9 volts, the battery is bad or on its last legs and needs to be replaced. The battery should be able to maintain at least 10 volts for up to 20 seconds of cranking the starter with a cold engine. If it can't do that, you need a new battery.

If the battery can retain at least 10 volts when cranking, and the engine does crank but cranks slow, or at least the starter makes some noises, then the battery is okay, and you need to check the starter motor and all of the fat high current connecting cables.
 
I will try testing everything this weekend if I can. Thanks for all of the help
 
I finally was able to work on the starting problem this weekend. I changed out the Starter relay and it started right up. I have a few more wiring problems with the dash, heater, and wipers but its getting there.
 
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