Starter relay bypass??

[Burns69RT]

Cool thanks

 

[A383Wing]

lots of burned wires sounds like a new harness is in order...and you want to by-pass the starter relay with that burned up harness?

Hope you have fire insurance on the car

 

[Burns69RT]

Okay so I don't plan on bypassing the harness anymore, I just need to wire this up to my msd 6al2 box and get her running and driving.

 

[bm02tj]

Make it safe even if you have to wait a little longer

 

[Burns69RT]

I will, just want to make sure I do it right. I'm using the starter relay, and I'm bypassing the ammeter. Trying to figure out wires to hookup to the msd box.

 

[383man]

Like I posted about the draw on the solenoid if you donot know you can check with a multi meter
measure the voltage drop and if excessive use a relay
to much draw will kill ignition switch and too low of voltage with hurt solenoid and starter

This is what you would need to do to see if you can eliminate the starter relay but its really not needed to eliminate it. GM cars for years had the ign switch feed the starter solenoid thats mounted on the starter and they did not have any problems. Ford had the ign switch feed a solenoid on the firewall and Mopar uses a starter relay to take the load. The solenoid mounted on the starter should draw a bit more then the firewall mounted solenoid since the one on the starter has to pull a plunger in with the clutch unit (one way roller clutch) and also push the starter contact disc to send power to the starter. But that solenoid has two windings in it which are a pull-in winding and a hold-in winding so once the plunger seats it shorts the pull-in winding out which is the one that draws the most current so it may work but as was said you would need to check the amps draw to be sure.

But that said the Mopar starter relay is a simple unit and works great so why not just stick with it. The relay has 4 terminals on it which are the big stud which is battery volts and then the smaller terminal with a screw on it which is the brown wire to the starter solenoid. Then the two smaller push on wires which is the yellow wire from the ign switch and the last wire which I believe is usually black or dark blue and may have a tracer on it as it either grounds through the NSS or a clutch switch on newer stick cars ( about 1974 & newer) or was grounded on the block or trans case on the older stick cars. The yellow wire just feeds the relay winding and the black or blue wire is the ground for the relay winding. Once the winding pulls the contacts closed the battery volts is sent to the starter solenoid. Its really a good simple system. Ron

 

[Burns69RT]

This is what you would need to do to see if you can eliminate the starter relay but its really not needed to eliminate it. GM cars for years had the ign switch feed the starter solenoid thats mounted on the starter and they did not have any problems. Ford had the ign switch feed a solenoid on the firewall and Mopar uses a starter relay to take the load. The solenoid mounted on the starter should draw a bit more then the firewall mounted solenoid since the one on the starter has to pull a plunger in with the clutch unit (one way roller clutch) and also push the starter contact disc to send power to the starter. But that solenoid has two windings in it which are a pull-in winding and a hold-in winding so once the plunger seats it shorts the pull-in winding out which is the one that draws the most current so it may work but as was said you would need to check the amps draw to be sure.

But that said the Mopar starter relay is a simple unit and works great so why not just stick with it. The relay has 4 terminals on it which are the big stud which is battery volts and then the smaller terminal with a screw on it which is the brown wire to the starter solenoid. Then the two smaller push on wires which is the yellow wire from the ign switch and the last wire which I believe is usually black or dark blue and may have a tracer on it as it either grounds through the NSS or a clutch switch on newer stick cars ( about 1974 & newer) or was grounded on the block or trans case on the older stick cars. The yellow wire just feeds the relay winding and the black or blue wire is the ground for the relay winding. Once the winding pulls the contacts closed the battery volts is sent to the starter solenoid. Its really a good simple system. Ron

I notice one heavy wire comes from the bulk head, where does the yellow (ignition wire) come from? And would I need to hook that wire up to my msd box? Or which 12v ignition wire do I hook up to the msd? My 6al2 box will be mounted under dash right above the trans tunnel. Hidden but where I can still easily access it.

 

[383man]

I notice one heavy wire comes from the bulk head, where does the yellow (ignition wire) come from? And would I need to hook that wire up to my msd box? Or which 12v ignition wire do I hook up to the msd? My 6al2 box will be mounted under dash right above the trans tunnel. Hidden but where I can still easily access it.

The yellow ign wire comes from the start terminal of the ign switch. On the MSD the small red wire to the MSD box needs to have power in the run and start posistions of the ign switch. So it needs to be hooked to the ign 1 and ign 2 terminals off the ign switch. You dont have to hook it up right to the ign switch as you can just hook into them circuits in the wire harness. You can even get them wires under the hood as the ign 1 circuit is the blue wire that feeds the ballast resister and the alt field/regulator. The ign 2 should be a brown wire that goes to one side of the ballast as it comes from the ign 2 terminal of the ign switch and bypasses the ballast while the eng is cranking. Ron