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Starter, relay or solenoid?

mr_spock

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Hi, I don't know why I can't get my head around this today, but anyway...

Car: 1966 Coronet, 318 with a 383/727 swap. Mini starter.

Symptoms: Power in car is fine. Headlamps, horn all work. Car started fine a few days ago (I've been testing my steering box for leaks, changed a hose and some O rings etc), and has reliably turned over for months. Now I turn the key, can't hear a click, "Oil" light dims, starter does nothing.

Diags so far: Battery is charged, terminals are tight, grounds are good. Tried in Park and Neutral. No burned or loose wires that I can see, nothing hot.

I'm on my own so it's hard to test for power at various points while turning the key.

What can I check now to narrow it down? I'm thinking that since I can't hear the relay click, it's likely that (or multiple things). Do they just go bad sitting there?

Thanks!
 
Does the starter relay have the ground tab to connect a wire, or is it the kind that grounds via the case?

Some of the Mopar relays come with a G tab, some come with no tab but the post is soldered/grounded to the relay case, aka body of the car.
The soldered ones can crack/break at the solder.

My 67 4 speed car calls for this grounded relay, the mini starter stopped working, and I actually soldered a wire to it and screwed the other end to the ground hub I have next to the battery to ensure a good ground.
My other 4 speed has the relay with the tab, I just hooked a wire to the ground tab on the relay since I don't have a neutral safety.

Could also just bypass neutral safety and ground it at the relay to see if it starts.
 
You don't need the original relay with a mini-starter, a generic 30amp relay will do just fine.

But that's not to say that's your issue.

To test your min-starter, jump the terminals at the starter. If it turns over the issue is the relay. If not, the issue is the starter solenoid - inside the starter.
 
Thanks, appreciate the responses. I also just watched Dead Dodge Garage's video on this exact problem. When I get a minute I'll jump the relay terminals (easist thing to get to - car has headers so the starter connections are a pain to access) and also test the neutral switch. The oil light dimming seems to suggest there's a power draw somewhere, so my head went to the starter/solenoid - which I have hit with a hammer, which did nothing.
 
Quick fix! Neutral switch tested fine, jumped relay and it cranked, so in frustration I tapped the relay enthusiatically with a screwdriver handle. And that fixed it! For now anyway - time for a new one just in case.
 
Yep... my relay was intermittent for awhile. Sometimes started w key n sometimes screwdriver jump until one day it was always screwdriver.
 
make sure your battery is fully charged and good
 
The newer reproduction relays like so many other replacement parts are poor quality.
 
The battery was/is fine, I did check though! On my 57 I had voltage drop big time when a terminal got corroded, so I always check there too.

I think this may be a modern relay, the body and terminals are very very bright.

Is there a source that’s better than others? I normally go to Napa or one of the other local parts stores for easy, common stuff and Classic Industries for anything more specific.
 
The newer reproduction relays like so many other replacement parts are poor quality.

I recently purchased a NOS relay from Bill Rolik Enterprises, the original one lasted 55 years so this one should outlast me. After replacing it I disassembled the original relay out of curiosity. It was super simple so I tested it with a Milwaukee M12 battery and the pulling coil worked but the contact points didn’t pass any current. I filed the points just like you would file ignition points. I retested the relay numerous times and it worked every single time. After putting it back together I stashed it in my spares box.

 
Interesting! $45 though... Mind you, that's about the same as a Carquest "Premium" one.
 
Interesting! $45 though... Mind you, that's about the same as a Carquest "Premium" one.

Generally speaking, when it comes to electronic components you get what you pay for. I will willingly pay a premium for NOS quality parts after less than stellar experiences with aftermarket replacement parts…
 
General replacements made in China are junko...
Try and find an original OE type made in the USA...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
I have taken Black_Sheep's advice and ordered an NOS one.
 
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