Starter, relay or solenoid?

[mr_spock]

Hi, I don't know why I can't get my head around this today, but anyway...

Car: 1966 Coronet, 318 with a 383/727 swap. Mini starter.

Symptoms: Power in car is fine. Headlamps, horn all work. Car started fine a few days ago (I've been testing my steering box for leaks, changed a hose and some O rings etc), and has reliably turned over for months. Now I turn the key, can't hear a click, "Oil" light dims, starter does nothing.

Diags so far: Battery is charged, terminals are tight, grounds are good. Tried in Park and Neutral. No burned or loose wires that I can see, nothing hot.

I'm on my own so it's hard to test for power at various points while turning the key.

What can I check now to narrow it down? I'm thinking that since I can't hear the relay click, it's likely that (or multiple things). Do they just go bad sitting there?

Thanks!

 

[matthon]

Does the starter relay have the ground tab to connect a wire, or is it the kind that grounds via the case?

Some of the Mopar relays come with a G tab, some come with no tab but the post is soldered/grounded to the relay case, aka body of the car.
The soldered ones can crack/break at the solder.

My 67 4 speed car calls for this grounded relay, the mini starter stopped working, and I actually soldered a wire to it and screwed the other end to the ground hub I have next to the battery to ensure a good ground.
My other 4 speed has the relay with the tab, I just hooked a wire to the ground tab on the relay since I don't have a neutral safety.

Could also just bypass neutral safety and ground it at the relay to see if it starts.

 

[gkent]

You don't need the original relay with a mini-starter, a generic 30amp relay will do just fine.

But that's not to say that's your issue.

To test your min-starter, jump the terminals at the starter. If it turns over the issue is the relay. If not, the issue is the starter solenoid - inside the starter.

 

[mr_spock]

Thanks, appreciate the responses. I also just watched Dead Dodge Garage's video on this exact problem. When I get a minute I'll jump the relay terminals (easist thing to get to - car has headers so the starter connections are a pain to access) and also test the neutral switch. The oil light dimming seems to suggest there's a power draw somewhere, so my head went to the starter/solenoid - which I have hit with a hammer, which did nothing.

 

[mr_spock]

Quick fix! Neutral switch tested fine, jumped relay and it cranked, so in frustration I tapped the relay enthusiatically with a screwdriver handle. And that fixed it! For now anyway - time for a new one just in case.

 

[diesel_lv]

Yep... my relay was intermittent for awhile. Sometimes started w key n sometimes screwdriver jump until one day it was always screwdriver.

 

[dan juhasz]

make sure your battery is fully charged and good

 

[Don Frelier]

The newer reproduction relays like so many other replacement parts are poor quality.

 

[mr_spock]

The battery was/is fine, I did check though! On my 57 I had voltage drop big time when a terminal got corroded, so I always check there too.

I think this may be a modern relay, the body and terminals are very very bright.

Is there a source that’s better than others? I normally go to Napa or one of the other local parts stores for easy, common stuff and Classic Industries for anything more specific.

 

[Black_Sheep]

The newer reproduction relays like so many other replacement parts are poor quality.

I recently purchased a NOS relay from Bill Rolik Enterprises, the original one lasted 55 years so this one should outlast me. After replacing it I disassembled the original relay out of curiosity. It was super simple so I tested it with a Milwaukee M12 battery and the pulling coil worked but the contact points didn’t pass any current. I filed the points just like you would file ignition points. I retested the relay numerous times and it worked every single time. After putting it back together I stashed it in my spares box.

Starter Relay, 8 ELECTRICAL-SWITCHES-RELAYS, 2444442 - N.O.S., Reproduction, and Replacement Chrysler Parts

www.billrolikenterprises.com

 

[mr_spock]

Interesting! $45 though... Mind you, that's about the same as a Carquest "Premium" one.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Interesting! $45 though... Mind you, that's about the same as a Carquest "Premium" one.

Generally speaking, when it comes to electronic components you get what you pay for. I will willingly pay a premium for NOS quality parts after less than stellar experiences with aftermarket replacement parts…

 

[Sinitro]

General replacements made in China are junko...
Try and find an original OE type made in the USA...

Just my $0.02...

 

[mr_spock]

I have taken Black_Sheep's advice and ordered an NOS one.