Steering Couple

[Mopar1969]

I have rebuilt many of them over the years and put a new pin in the shaft. Just about everyone I did I had to use torches to heat the shaft and then knock it out with a punch or if you have a tool to presss it out you can use it but almost all I did would not move not even trying to press them until I heated the shaft with torches. Did you buy the Flaming River coupler ? Can you post a pic of the Flaming River coupler you bought if you did buy one ? Ron

Can you recommend a cheap(ish) torch that will do the trick? So my handheld heat gun that heats to 1200 degrees won't work? I'm attaching a picture of the coupler. I haven't bought it yet in case I ran into trouble getting this pin out...

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I have the flaming river coupler in my '68 b body. Flaming River instructions require cutting a small portion of length off of the shaft. I didn't like it, but that's what I did. Works great. In retrospect, if I did it again, I'd probably NOT cut the shaft and instead go with the Bergman/Borgeson adapter setup that allows use of the Borgeson Jeep steering box. Half the size and weight, improved response, but almost twice the cost of a rebuilt unit from Firm Feel. This was written up extensively in the last few issues of Mopar Action mag.

 

[sleepar]

I have the flaming river coupler in my '68 b body. Flaming River instructions require cutting a small portion of length off of the shaft. I didn't like it, but that's what I did. Works great. In retrospect, if I did it again, I'd probably NOT cut the shaft and instead go with the Bergman/Borgeson adapter setup that allows use of the Borgeson Jeep steering box. Half the size and weight, improved response, but almost twice the cost of a rebuilt unit from Firm Feel. This was written up extensively in the last few issues of Mopar Action mag.

X2 on that.... as for the c clamp trick I put the socket on the fixed end of the clamp and a piece of hardwood on the other.... the hard wood will eventually crush down but as long as it has a hole for the pin and is flush with it just to keep it from slipping if you give it all you have and can't get the pin to move with heat and c clamp... my go to for almost anything I press is my universal upper control arm bushing installer. Because it won't flex or break once the pin moves a little they usually come out easy because there warn the upper bushing tool takes out tie rod ends and idler arms rear spring eye bolts has many adapters......

 

[Coronet 14]

I had to press mine out also. I tried to use a drift and a 5 pound hammer and the pin wouldn't move