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Still can't find passing gear

1STMP

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Roswell, New Mexico
Many bouts under the truck. Changed
lever arm lengths and cable adjustments. Pulling my hair out.
The 440 just won't kick down.
Runs great other than this problem.
I'm to the point now of returning
all trans related items to stock,
this is on a custom build with
no reference where stock may be.
I don't think I have a reference of
where to start.
Any help may prove to lessen my
anxiety.
 
You probably already know that pre-1971 valve bodys dont have part-throttle kickdown and require full throttle?
If there is a problem somewhere in the trans causing a pressure loss....it may not ever kick-down and will likely start slipping;probably going into 3rd.
The valve in the valve-body that gets pressed by the throttle-pressure lever has a little sleeve on it which could be installed on it backwards [swapped end for end that is]. That will cause your problem also and can be checked by dropping the pan.
Good luck.
 
You probably already know that pre-1971 valve bodys dont have part-throttle kickdown and require full throttle?
If there is a problem somewhere in the trans causing a pressure loss....it may not ever kick-down and will likely start slipping;probably going into 3rd.
The valve in the valve-body that gets pressed by the throttle-pressure lever has a little sleeve on it which could be installed on it backwards [swapped end for end that is]. That will cause your problem also and can be checked by dropping the pan.
Good luck.
The trans is a 1976HP 727.
It"s rebuilt with less thàn 500 milès.
With a 2800 stall Boss Hog converter.
Shifts fine under light throttle
applications.
 
I'm guessing your trans lever is not back far enough. I went through this same thing (although with a Bouchillon cable setup). I was on the phone multiple times with John Cope of Cope Racing who built it over many months. I was learning as I went and finally realized I needed to make sure 2 adjustments were correct -

1) the throttle cable/lever was all the way back at Wide Open Throttle. This seems obvious and I had always had this set correctly.
2) Trans lever adjustment from up top at carb - Separately, but simultaneously, the trans cable/lever needs to be engaged at part throttle and Wide Open Throttle. At first I thought this was all the way back as I could feel it hit a stop. Then I pulled a bit further and felt a stiff spring allow a bit more travel. I pulled the cable from up top at the carb bracket against that spring so it was about 1/2 the way into that spring and BINGO. Now I had partial kickdown working! Check and double-check this again and lock it down tight once you've got it.
 
Factory linkage or aftermarket cable? When operating, the range of movement of the linkage attachment hole on the k.d. lever MUST be same as that of the k.d. stud on the carb. When using a cable set up, you need a light spring on the k.d. lever to return it to rest position.
 
What vehicle is this in and what vehicle did the trans come out of. The kickdown lever comes in two lengths. Short for the 3 pc bellcrank system and long for the 1 pc rod system. If you have the wrong lever, it will never be right.
 
Disconnect the rod that connects the carb to the lever mechanism on the rear of the engine.

Best done with two people: bush back on the lever until it goes no further. Note where the KD lever on the trans is. Disconnect the rod that hooks to this rod.....& see if you can push the KD lever further back. If you can that is likely your problem: KD lever is not hitting the KD detent inside the trans. If the KD is going all the way back, it can still be the upper linkages not allowing the KD lever on the trans to go fully back.
 
Disconnect the throttle linkage at the trans. Put a pressure gauge in the accumulator test port. Start the engine and move the trans lever back fully. If it has less than 90psi you have an internal valve body issue. If it comes up to 90psi your issue is linkage based.
Doug
 
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