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Strange problem...

No, I added a picture. They made both bends more severe which reduced the length of the arm. I made a cardboard template that they could check the bends against. Took about 15 minutes and cost me $20.00.
 
I am almost 100% certain adjusting the gearbox will solved your problem. You will need to make sure the idler arm is the same from the floor to the idler arm joint when the gearbox is neutral, or in the center.
 
I am almost 100% certain adjusting the gearbox will solved your problem. You will need to make sure the idler arm is the same from the floor to the idler arm joint when the gearbox is neutral, or in the center.

Do you feel it will move that much??
 
Yes, the picture is after the bending. Don't know about the configuration of the stock arm. I talked to everybody and their brother about this when I encountered the problem, even Richard from Mopar Action. One of the arms I bought was from him. Bending worked well for me, but it looks like I had more interference than you. I think I would try the other guys suggestion about shimming the box first. Might be all you need.
 
I will get in there tomorrow and take a look at what I have and go from there...
 
Looks like it is barely touching. It also looks like if the engine were sitting a little higher it would clear. Are your mounts good/new
 
Do you feel it will move that much??

Yes. Look at how it is made. The pitman arm end where it bolts to the center link is WAY out in space compared to where you are making your adjustment. Imagine a line of people 50 people long walking in a circle using the first person as the center. All the ifrst person has to do is stand in one spot and spin. What does the 50th person have to do? Run like HELL. Same principle. That pitman arm will move a lot.
 
steering shims

You would certainly think so. You should be able to look between the gearbox and the K frame to see if there are any shims. It sounds like there may be none.

Rusty and Red

I got some copies of the information out of the chassis book hope this will help.
Not the best pictures but all the information is all there.

Jeff
 

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Looks like it is barely touching. It also looks like if the engine were sitting a little higher it would clear. Are your mounts good/new

Engine mounts and transmission mount are new and engine is bolted in place. Now I just need to get some shims....
 
Rusty and Red

I got some copies of the information out of the chassis book hope this will help.
Not the best pictures but all the information is all there.

Jeff

EXACTLY what I was talking about. Thanks. As I was saying earlier, get your pitman arm clearance good, and then make sure the "R2" (Idler arm) measurement matches the pitman arm (L2).
 
I had a brand new set of Hedman Headers on my 64 with a 400 in it and they hit my piman arm as well. and the starter...and pan rails of the block, and the pan rails of the trans, Even after massaging them a lot, they never would seal right and always leaked. I am very glad to have the Hi po manifolds back on. If you are running an RB you'll have better luck. I won't put headers back on until I can afford the TTI's. I wish you luck with yours though.
 
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