Street/Strip shock for Caltracs?

[LemonWedge]

I figured I probably wasn't going to be able to improve in the Calvert system by mixing and matching based on what other people said, so I went with Calvert shocks. I know I could spend more money, but I'm just not convinced it would be a measurable upgrade over the full Calvert system. QA1's, Vikings, etc. I'm sure would work, but would they make a 10 or 11 second car faster? I doubt it.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Thanks Mike, I was going to use adjustable all the way around. Do you think it would be feasible to lower the torsion bars at the track to get the 5-6" of lift, then return them back before hitting the street? I had planned on adjusting the Cal Tracs for street use also.

Sure...lower them at the track

 

[Mike Gaines]

I figured I probably wasn't going to be able to improve in the Calvert system by mixing and matching based on what other people said, so I went with Calvert shocks. I know I could spend more money, but I'm just not convinced it would be a measurable upgrade over the full Calvert system. QA1's, Vikings, etc. I'm sure would work, but would they make a 10 or 11 second car faster? I doubt it.

I agreee

 

[Mike Gaines]

Unless you are going for the absolute BEST ET you can get and that is the MOST IMPORTANT THING then just run SS springs and good street shocks all the way around and be happy with whatever ET's you run at the track. CAL TRACS do ride crappy on the stree unless you undo the Track Settings and set them for the street.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

For an 11 second ride you can pick up the 60ft if it makes a difference to you.I had the ranchos and overpowered them.

 

[69 GTX]

Thanks guys for all the input. Think I have a solid plan now.

 

[Tex013]

On my Satellite i have caltrac rear bars with xhd springs . I currently have rancho 9 way shocks though i have drag valved Vikings arriving next week , should be better control .
On the front i have QA1 single adjustable .
I set front full loose , about 5,5" travel . On the street i tighten them 4 clicks
Rears are the opposite
This is a 10.60s car that is my daily driver , have run interstate quite a few times .
Also i use the Milodon road race oil pan so plenty of road clearance

Tex

 

[496BEE]

With my cal trac / mono leaf spring set up I have the bars set at 1" off the mono spring and the comp shocks set at 50/50. Could I hook harder with a more aggressive setting ? Who knows probably, will It give up street comfort ? Definitely. right now I'm hooking nice running 11.2s and I notice no difference in ride quality over an ss setup .. Point being if you take the happy medium and don't get real aggressive with the way you adjust your set up you'll be fine .

Unless you are going for the absolute BEST ET you can get and that is the MOST IMPORTANT THING then just run SS springs and good street shocks all the way around and be happy with whatever ET's you run at the track. CAL TRACS do ride crappy on the stree unless you undo the Track Settings and set them for the street.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

With my cal trac / mono leaf spring set up I have the bars set at 1" off the mono spring and the comp shocks set at 50/50. Could I hook harder with a more aggressive setting ? Who knows probably, will It give up street comfort ? Definitely. right now I'm hooking nice running 11.2s and I notice no difference in ride quality over an ss setup .. Point being if you take the happy medium and don't get real aggressive with the way you adjust your set up you'll be fine .

If your bars are 1" off the springs they're not even doing anything other than looking cool.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I'm not slamming caltrac's, I love mine. And I think they are great for a hot rod that needs some help in the hook department that you don't want to cut up. I just probably wouldn't put them on a daily driver type hot rod such as my roadrunner. I spend too much time cruising michigans pot hole filled roads.

 

[LemonWedge]

If your bars are 1" off the springs they're not even doing anything other than looking cool.

I believe you are dead wrong here. Moving the bar to the upper hole (closer to the spring) actually INCREASES its input on the spring. Lower hole gives more leverage, but slows the active input that the bar has on the spring. Upper hole has less leverage, but increases the input. Upper hole can be more effective for higher horsepower cars.

This is how I understood it was described to me by John Gay at Calvert.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I believe you are dead wrong here. Moving the bar to the upper hole (closer to the spring) actually INCREASES its input on the spring. Lower hole gives more leverage, but slows the active input that the bar has on the spring. Upper hole has less leverage, but increases the input. Upper hole can be more effective for higher horsepower cars.

This is how I understood it was described to me by John Gay at Calvert.

This has nothing to do with what hole it's in, if the bar is 1" away from the spring it's not doing anything.

I agree with what you're saying on the hole position though. Seems every car is a bit different and they all need to be adjusted accordingly. Some like preload, some like a small air gap, only way to determine that is do 60fts at the track. That's how I figured mine out.

I see the confusion ( I'm referring to the way the bar is adjusted as far as the way it contacts the spring) not the actual distance of the lateral bar underneath the spring.

 

[LemonWedge]

I took it that this was what he was describing when he said "bar 1" off the spring". If you're using Calvert hardware, the front eye hole is the only way to effect how close the bar is to the spring.

 

[496BEE]

Yup this is what I was trying to / meant to say. Thats also exactly what John said to me when he advised me on how to adjust them.... I didn't word correctly what I was trying to say that's my bad lol

I believe you are dead wrong here. Moving the bar to the upper hole (closer to the spring) actually INCREASES its input on the spring. Lower hole gives more leverage, but slows the active input that the bar has on the spring. Upper hole has less leverage, but increases the input. Upper hole can be more effective for higher horsepower cars.

This is how I understood it was described to me by John Gay at Calvert.

 

[496BEE]

68 Hemi Gts - not to get off topic but what your size are you running in front and rear? Looks good!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

68 Hemi Gts - not to get off topic but what your size are you running in front and rear? Looks good!

Thanks! Hoosier 27/4.5 runner in the front with a QTP 29/14.5 in the rear.

 

[496BEE]

Nice that's the exact set up I want to run. I currently have 325/50/15s in the rear and am trying to make room

Thanks! Hoosier 27/4.5 runner in the front with a QTP 29/14.5 in the rear.

 

[gtxracer]

Hey 496BEE my GTX went 10.43 with S/S springs, pinion snubber and Comp. Engineering shocks. Best 60 ft. was 1.43.

 

[383man]

Unless you are going for the absolute BEST ET you can get and that is the MOST IMPORTANT THING then just run SS springs and good street shocks all the way around and be happy with whatever ET's you run at the track. CAL TRACS do ride crappy on the stree unless you undo the Track Settings and set them for the street.

Thats what I did. My 63 is a street car and I am not rolling in money so I just run the MP Super Stock rear springs and the longer extending MP rear shocks. I do run the Comp Eng 90/10 shocks up front and the car handles fine. I think I could pick up a solid tenth going to Cal Tracs and adjustable rear shocks but its not worth it to me spending $800 for a tenth and I am happy with how the SS springs work and ride on the street. My best 60 ft is a 1.50 running 10.70's at almost 125. Its not setting the world on fire but its respectable for what it is I believe. Its a simple basic 70's suspension setup but it still works ok and I use the stock torsion bars in my 63 which its an original 383 car. I agree that Cal Tracs are going to give better 60 ft times then SS springs but you just have to weigh out if you think its enough for you to go with them. If my car was race only then I would look into them when I could afford them. Good luck with your car. Ron

 

[Mike Gaines]

Thats what I did. My 63 is a street car and I am not rolling in money so I just run the MP Super Stock rear springs and the longer extending MP rear shocks. I do run the Comp Eng 90/10 shocks up front and the car handles fine. I think I could pick up a solid tenth going to Cal Tracs and adjustable rear shocks but its not worth it to me spending $800 for a tenth and I am happy with how the SS springs work and ride on the street. My best 60 ft is a 1.50 running 10.70's at almost 125. Its not setting the world on fire but its respectable for what it is I believe. Its a simple basic 70's suspension setup but it still works ok and I use the stock torsion bars in my 63 which its an original 383 car. I agree that Cal Tracs are going to give better 60 ft times then SS springs but you just have to weigh out if you think its enough for you to go with them. If my car was race only then I would look into them when I could afford them. Good luck with your car. Ron

Ron...Your 63 in the benchmark for all builds. Street driven and 10.70's and 125...you should be proud of that build.