Stress crack drivers side door

[MoparMitch]

Yup, my Golden Rotisserie Chicken had the same thing on the drivers side. 68RR Hardtop. I always thought mine was due to bad / worn door hinges. Had to lift the door pretty good when I found It.

 

[TBONE]

My 68 Sport Satellite had the same cracks on both sides. My dad, who was a bodyman and had his own shop from 68-72, said they are stress cracks. When I fixed mine I added some pcs. under the area for extra strength. I'm also adding frame ties to help out.

 

[moparstuart]

most of them do it and my RR was just a 383

 

[69Bee]

Had to add my 2 cents from an old fart like me. High torque motors, sticky tires, and a unibody equals cracks in the quarters behind the door opening. This is really common actually. The best way to prevent it from happening is to put in Weld-in frame connectors. This strengthens the uni-body to prevent tortional twisting of the body. Not rust, or grinding, or poor quarter replacement, just plain old fashioned MOPAR Torque. :hello2:

Weld up the cracks, install the frame connectors, and have fun...

 

[Big Sugar]

My 66 Charger had stress cracks at the base of each "A" pillar as well as a stress crack in the standing seam above the front vent window in each door opening basically the top of the"A"pillar . This must be the result of front cowl or front end flex ..the chassis is now fully connected with additional plates welded to the inner framerail forward from the front torque box to the upper control arm mount. Also added a triangular piece of 16 gauge to the underside of the a pillar behind the dash just to box the base. Also have all the XV Motorsports bracing up front as well.
Hopefully the extra rigidity and the upgraded hotchkis suspension doesn't expose any more weak areas.

That crack you see on top of the quarter at the door is definatly a stress crack. The long b body quarters have to soak up a a considerable amount of flex an genrally the strongest area of the panel will see the most flexing. The side opening of the b body is huge and without the "B" pillar (post) the flex is even worse. Subframe connectors are a must in these cars especially when 400+ hp and a big set of tires come out to play. Even more important if your running a 4 speed.

Ron

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Have to add my 2 cents here too. My 68 charger has the same crack on the drivers side.

 

[rp23g7]

Mine has that little crack too.

 

[northerndave]

Mine had the same cracks, as did a 68 coronet I did body work on years ago.

here's a crack on a 68 dodge.

after:

both this dodge and my roadrunner also got frame connectors after fixing these cracks.

Check your A-pillar to cowell area. (bottom corners of windshield)

There is a lead seam there that is also very prone to cracking. From my experience, if they are cracked behind the doors, the lead is usually cracked where the cowell meets the A-pillar.

Be it flex or moisture wicking or a combination of both, I'm not sure but I remove miost of the lead here, clean the metal and replace the lead with metal 2 metal filler.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Me too! passenger side crack and now getting worse as a chunk has fallen off or my 2 year old pulled on it lol looks like bondo then a metal seam wired but fixable I guess.

adding frame rail supports to my list of things to do.

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

I just went to look at my Super Bee in storage to see if it had stress cracks. I feel like an idiot. It has a pillar with the vent back windows. Was the pillar with vent windows an option on Coronets?

 

[northerndave]

Damm!!

that is one sweet car.

 

[69Bee]

I just went to look at my Super Bee in storage to see if it had stress cracks. I feel like an idiot. It has a pillar with the vent back windows. Was the pillar with vent windows an option on Coronets?

The difference between WM23 (Hardtop), and WM29 (Sedan).

 

[b-body-bob]

The difference between WM23 (Hardtop), and WM21 (Sedan).

FIFY

W_29 is a Charger

That Super Bee is WM21

 

[69Bee]

FIFY

W_29 is a Charger

That Super Bee is WM21

Mis-spoke:

WM21 2 door Coupe
WM23 2 Door Hartop Coupe

http://www.oldride.com/library/1969_dodge_coronet.html

The code for 68-70 Charger was XP or XS, and did not go to W_ until 71.

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

My title begins WM21 for the Bee and WS23 for the R/T. Would there be any difference in length and width between the the coupe and hardtop? I swear my R/T is larger. The R/T has buckets and the Super Bee has a split bench, but that should not make it seem larger or smaller. Sorry about the weird questions, but I am new to the game if that was not apparent.
Mark

 

[wannadrag]

I added a L shaped peice on the back side of the crack when i replaced the skins on my GTX to hopefully cure it.

 

[MarPar]

Sweet freakin' Bee!!!!

Sorry about the weird questions, but I am new to the game if that was not apparent.
Mark

So what's your point??? LOL we we were all new at one point or another!!!

Welcome to the beautiful world we call MoPar!!!

Marco, get yinzself the "white books" one is for option codes (decoding buildsheets, fender tags and VIN's) and one is for parts and casting numbers (engine blocks, transmissions, radiators, intakes, rear ends)....

also, get the factory service manual for your cars, they are a wealth of knowledge

google it, yinz'll find 'em!

show us what you find before you buy if you're not sure. :hiding:

Happy MoParing!!
Mario

 

[Propwash]

My title begins WM21 for the Bee and WS23 for the R/T. Would there be any difference in length and width between the the coupe and hardtop? I swear my R/T is larger. The R/T has buckets and the Super Bee has a split bench, but that should not make it seem larger or smaller. Sorry about the weird questions, but I am new to the game if that was not apparent.
Mark

Mark,

The 1969 Coronet R/T and the Superbee are identical in length/width. Now the 1969 Plymouth B-Body 2 dr's on the other hand have a 1" shorter wheelbase than your Dodge's. As far as the rear quarter window's...Post cars have the push out type windows

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

Yinz are a great wealth of knowledge. Marpar, I need to get off the cowch and get warshed n the shawer.

I will have to bring it to a body shop after the summer to see if they can strengthen the joints prone to cracking on the R/T. Hopefully, the Super Bee is spared from the stress cracks due to the post.
Thanks again,
Mark

 

[Mesopic]

Very interesting reading, i was going to add sub frame connected anyway. What about torque boxes though, much point adding them? for a street car.
http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=MP-2425S
Thanks