Sub Frame Connectors

[GetX'd]

How much hp and torque are you running?

 

[conv67bdere]

This is an awesome thread! And timely since I'm in the middle of building my car.

At the risk of piling on, I was also looking at the US Car Tool torque boxes. Have many of you added the torque boxes along with the SFC, or are they overkill on a street machine?

Well, technically I didn't "add" the torque boxes to my car because I've got a convertible and they're already installed at the factory. But from all that I've read in doing my research, the adding of torque boxes and frame connector can only help the ride . . . and everything that I've gotten from US Car Tools has been great quality !

 

[clemul]

The gusset plates, torque boxes and frame connectors all add strength to car and minimize metal fatigue to the body:
(http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?33837-Stress-crack-drivers-side-door)

Bought these for my 67 GTX clone but didn't install yet.
http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LeafSpringReinfRearB

http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TorqBox6670B

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1300

 

[CoronetDarter]

How much hp and torque are you running?

I haven't gotten to the engine build of my resto yet but it will more than likely be a 4.125 stroker 440 putting out around 500 hp/ft-lbs hooked to a 727 TF. It seems there's two camps - one is the members with frame-bending power plants that install SFC to help prevent their cars from twisting under the torque loads and the others that may only have a 350 hp SB but want the SFC for extra rigidity and better handling.

 

[GetX'd]

I'm running a 494 stroked 440 with 555 hp and 600 lbs. I'm just putting in the sfc because my car isn't going to live at the strip. I may run it a few times so I can see what she does. But you're right some guys on here have massive power plants and are also building their cars from the frame up so they go the whole enchilada. I think I'll be fine with the sfc. I guess you can never do to much to protect your car.

 

[sleepar]

Welding up all the body seams will reinforce the car more than anything past the connectors.... if it were on the rotisserie....

 

[69 GTX]

Yep, I welded my tubs solid to frame, as torque boxes, SFC's and a few other places I thought a weld would help. I know if it ever has to go to the body shop to get some major fixes (wrecked) they will cuss me!

 

[conv67bdere]

Same here . . . hopefully won't need a body shop, but what ever hits me will cause my Belvedere is built like a TANK ! ! ( smile )

 

[MykeNytemare]

So none of these connectors require any part of the floor or seat pan to be cut/boxed for clearance? I was thinking of getting the Hotchkis ones even though they are more expensive than all the others I see online.

 

[69 GTX]

The ones I used were laser cut to match the floor pan. They are close but needed some trimming for a better fit.

 

[Wijns07]

1st qustions:

Are you guys installing, "the total chassis stiffening kit" from US Car Tool or are the majority of you just doing the, "sub frame connectors?"

2nd Question:

How stripped does the car need to be to do, "The complete chassis stiffening kit?"

Do I need to remove exhaust, drive shaft rear end? etc etc???

Wijns

 

[conv67bdere]

1st qustions:

Are you guys installing, "the total chassis stiffening kit" from US Car Tool or are the majority of you just doing the, "sub frame connectors?"

2nd Question:

How stripped does the car need to be to do, "The complete chassis stiffening kit?"

Do I need to remove exhaust, drive shaft rear end? etc etc???

Wijns

Wijns - I have a convertible, so it comes stock with the torque boxes, so I did not need to add the "complete kit". But in the process of working through the build, I've added the subframe connectors, then needed to fix my core support, so I added that. Then decided I might as well get the inner fender braces . . . still need to get them welded in place.

So I've basically added the complete kit - but I did it in pieces.

Does the drive shaft need to come out - maybe not ( my car is stripped so I have nothing in my way )
Does the exhaust need to come out - probably, I think it might end up being in the way for you to weld the subframe connectors to the floor

That's about all the help I can provide - that's my $0.02 . . . good luck with the upgrades, the US Car Tools stuff is American made and very NICE ! !

 

[mopar12372]

dosent matter with a unibody seen it done both ways . on a unibody just make sure the doors are closed , aligned .
with all this rust repair goin on with our mopars left out in the elements i would recomend going to a frame place to square up the car for peace of mind . make sure the car is level and not jacked up on one side or another and i have seen problems with that because our cars do twist and that is the purpose of them anyway .
we dont have a frame in our cars thats the term unibody, the whole car is the structure so the factory supports that are cut out behind the rear seat and the front supports under the fender , structure conected the the rear wheel house play alot in the structure of the unibody mopar , if you have these weld in the conectors then you can cut out the rear support behind the seat same goes for the front .

 

[AMX364]

The full sub-frame connectors that are welded to the pan do need to have the carpet and pad removed for the pan welding. It can be welded at the ends and later welded to the pan at a later stage. I have done it both ways in the past. Last pair were the full pan weld type from US Car tool. Have installed first in a 66 Barracuda and it had the drivetrain installed and other then the parking brake cable routing there were no issues, other then tools that were too close to the weld lines, felt pen and tape measure, my fault. The Coronet parking bake setup is slightly different and completely stock and appears to not interfere.
You will have to pay attention to fuel line and brake line runs.

 

[69 GTX]

I started out with the XV motorsports stuff but switched to the US Car tool stuff cause I liked the appearance & fit better. My car was totally stripped when I did mine.

 

[corunna bird]

I installed the U.S cartool kit SFC/torque boxes/inner fender braces/moved springs in as well and the lower rad support, really nice kit a little tweeking here and there but overall really nice fit. I am sure it will be a lot stiffer now. I also welded up a lot of seams while I had the chance. thx Bruce

 

[Dennis H]

Looks factory to the untrained eye. Nice.

 

[corunna bird]

thx Dennis, it all fit fairly well which is a big plus when welding. I can't believe how much more ridged the lower rad support is now compared to the way it came from the factory, in my mind the whole kit must do quite a bit for stiffening the whole car. thx bruce

 

[conv67bdere]

Little different route with the lower core support . . .

I too installed the US Car Tools lower core support, but chose to do it a little different for the look I wanted . . .

Here is how my installation looks . . .



I drilled out the metal behind the holes and welded the support in from the back side - if this can be seen, the holes will be seen and will be open . . .

I like the way it turned out - and it is still very strong !

 

[corunna bird]

I too installed the US Car Tools lower core support, but chose to do it a little different for the look I wanted . . .

Here is how my installation looks . . .

View attachment 209646

I drilled out the metal behind the holes and welded the support in from the back side - if this can be seen, the holes will be seen and will be open . . .

I like the way it turned out - and it is still very strong !

yeah looks good, makes a big difference for sure.