Suggestions for front end/steering upgrades on a budget?

[Coelacanth]

I'm interested to know some recommendations for upgrading from the stock front suspension & steering components, with emphasis on best bang-for-the-buck; i.e. most noticeable improvements for your dollar.

Clearly there are guys with large bank accounts that can do full-on resto-mods and pro-touring builds but I'm hoping this topic will help those of us with limited budgets decide what to upgrade to get the best improvements for the dollar.

My '70 Charger has 383 Magnum, power steering, original power brakes with disks up front and pretty much everything else is stock. I'll be running 235-60-15's up front and 275-60-15's at the back. New Sachs shocks at the front.

I've done a fair amount of reading. Everyone who is modernizing their front ends is ignoring the FSM specs for OEM caster and doing whatever they can to maximize caster adjustments. What are some ideas to improve steering that balance budget with noticeable improvements? Some ideas:

-Bigger torsion bar
-Quick ratio Pitman arm
-Firm feel steering box

I don't want to go crazy with coil-overs and totally re-engineer the front end, just upgrade a few things to make the car steer better. Thanks!

 

[Don67Satellite]

You are already on the right path.

Yes, bigger torsion bars. I used the Hotchkis 1.03" bars, was a noticeable difference in less body roll, firmer cornering, just changing those.

Replace all bushings, ball joints etc with quality pieces.

The Borgeson setup from Bergman's is the premium steering setup, & I would love one, but I am likely gonna have my steering box rebuilt by a local place for cost savings.

Will likely replace my newer KYB (Kill Your Back) shocks with some KONI's since they are highly rated and budget friendly.

My car was not a sway bar car, so I am likely going to go with one of the Hellwig bar setups since I don't have the factory tabs on the LCA's.

My suspension shop said my UCA's were "getting thin" so I purchased some tubular UCA's on fleaBay that will also go in with maybe offset bushings for more adjustability.

I think that will be enough to make the big girl a steady driver for what I use her for.

 

[WileE]

Besides ensuring all bushings and joints are good, yes, getting more positive caster is a great benefit. Whichever method you use, I opted for tubular upper arms from PST, one of the best things I did. Other than new stock parts, (with heavier t-bars ), consider adding a rear sway bar. You don't need a fancy-shmancy coil-over kit-and-kaboodle front suspension for typical use.

 

[DeltaV]

@Kern Dog might chime in too.

 

[Coelacanth]

Can you get a satisfactory amount of positive caster with stock front end parts and an updated alignment, or does this require aftermarket parts?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've done almost everything on my 1968 B body Plymouth Satellite that bolts on in stock form, adding it a few items at a time. No coil overs here! I also do not recommend fast ration pitman/idler arms. I tried them and they significantly increase steering effort. Yes, they make the steering react quicker, but it got tiring to drive and wasn't worth it to me. Some of these items are not that expensive, but when you add them all up it is very expensive. If I were to do it again, here is the order (also assuming your tires should have some life left in them and are somewhat decent).

-Quality shocks - tuned Bilsteins or tuned Fox
-New ball joints
-New LCA bushings and boxed/welded plate onto bottom of existing stock LCA's
-New rear leaf attachment shackles/bushings
-New alignment
-front sway bar
-rear sway bar
-New UCA's with built in caster (I like Firm Feel, but there are lots of quality options out there)
-Subframe connectors (this makes a big difference since our cars are unibodies). I went with end welded type, but full length welded works even better and requires carpet removal for welding.
-Larger Torsion Bars (.96" or bigger recommended. Stock sizes were .088" and .092" for most B bodies. I have aftermarket Firm Feel 1.00" diameter. Some go even bigger like 1.03" or 1.06". Bear in mind +.03" increase is a large increase in torsion bar stiffness. You could potentially also go too big since adding too much front stiffness here could increase understeer, especially for street use)
-New Rear Leaf springs or re-arched if needed
-New steering shaft coupler/bushing (not the pot metal one with the clamp, I'm talking about the white plastic housed one closer to the firewall.
-Re-built steering box (Borgeson preferred since no center slop, Firm Feel 2nd option but you still have center slop)

 

[Don67Satellite]

Sorry for potato quality pic but as this recommends using the offset bushings for more adjustability.

 

[Kern Dog]

Can you get a satisfactory amount of positive caster with stock front end parts and an updated alignment, or does this require aftermarket parts?

If you have read any of the threads I have on this forum, you'll see that I am a big proponent of the factory torsion bar setup. I know that it wreaks havoc for some header fitment but in terms of weight, strength and handling capability, it is an excellent system.
All my builds are stock based but with upgrades. Dwayne listed them below...

I've done almost everything on my 1968 B body Plymouth Satellite that bolts on in stock form, adding it a few items at a time. No coil overs here! I also do not recommend fast ration pitman/idler arms. I tried them and they significantly increase steering effort. Yes, they make the steering react quicker, but it got tiring to drive and wasn't worth it to me. Some of these items are not that expensive, but when you add them all up it is very expensive. If I were to do it again, here is the order (also assuming your tires should have some life left in them and are somewhat decent).

-Quality shocks - tuned Bilsteins or tuned Fox
-New ball joints
-New LCA bushings and boxed/welded plate onto bottom of existing stock LCA's
-New rear leaf attachment shackles/bushings
-New alignment
-front sway bar
-rear sway bar
-New UCA's with built in caster (I like Firm Feel, but there are lots of quality options out there)
-Subframe connectors (this makes a big difference since our cars are unibodies). I went with end welded type, but full length welded works even better and requires carpet removal for welding.
-Larger Torsion Bars (.96" or bigger recommended. Stock sizes were .088" and .092" for most B bodies. I have aftermarket Firm Feel 1.00" diameter. Some go even bigger like 1.03" or 1.06". Bear in mind +.03" increase is a large increase in torsion bar stiffness. You could potentially also go too big since adding too much front stiffness here could increase understeer, especially for street use)
-New Rear Leaf springs or re-arched if needed
-New steering shaft coupler/bushing (not the pot metal one with the clamp, I'm talking about the white plastic housed one closer to the firewall.
-Re-built steering box (Borgeson preferred since no center slop, Firm Feel 2nd option but you still have center slop)

I agree with most of what he wrote but disagree with his opinion on the Fast Ratio steering arms. I had them on my red car when I had a Firm Feel Stage 3 steering box. They did increase the steering effort which I didn't mind that much BUT the steering box was worn and had that free-play/slop at the middle of the travel. When you have high effort mixed with a loose free-play feel at the center, the steering felt weird as you saw back and forth on curvy roads.
I switched to the Borgeson steering box and standard ratio steering arms since the Borgeson is already a 14 to 1 ratio. The F/R arms with a Borgeson steering box makes for steering that may be too twitchy and fast reacting.
I have Fast Ratio arms in this car:

When I screwed this car together, I did as much as I could using parts that I had around here. I found the cleanest, tightest steering box I had. This steering box is stock, never rebuilt and has the least amount of play of the ones that I had. This is a decent match for the Fast Ratio arms because the stock Mopar steering boxes really do steer too easy. The F/R arms did increase the effort a little but it also makes the steering from left to right, right to left quicker. It is a good match for my cars.
Just to reiterate what I've posted here before...
You can get these cars to handle quite good by keeping the stock design but upgrading it in a few key places.
I was able to get 6 degrees of Positive caster with stock upper control arms and the Moog K 7103 offset bushings. I got 8 degrees of caster with the new QA-1 upper control arms. I looked at this chart.....

.....and chuckled a bit at their meager caster settings.
Caster helps the car stay stable and straight. It makes the steering wheel want to return to center after a turn. You want this. It makes the car more predictable and controllable.
To get the most caster, you do need to also have negative camber. This is just how these front ends are designed. The more negative camber you have, the more caster you'll be able to get. When new, these cars had alignment settings based on the capability of the tires they had back then. Settings of positive camber and almost zero caster were commonly listed as the correct settings for these cars. Radial tires radically changed how much camber and caster you can have without chewing up the tires.

Read these threads....

Alignment at home and aftermarket UCAS too.

Swapping a Borgeson steering box in a 1970 Charger

There is some good info in there. Feel FREE to PM me if you have questions along the way.

 

[Coelacanth]

I also do not recommend fast ration pitman/idler arms. I tried them and they significantly increase steering effort. Yes, they make the steering react quicker, but it got tiring to drive and wasn't worth it to me. Some of these items are not that expensive, but when you add them all up it is very expensive. If I were to do it again, here is the order (also assuming your tires should have some life left in them and are somewhat decent).

Thanks for the suggestions, 68 S S. I neglected to mention my Charger has power steering, I edited my first post. My tires are brand new Cooper Cobras that will be mounted on new mags when I'm done some major under-body work on the car (new gas tank, fuel lines, front shocks).

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks Kern Dog, I was looking forward to your input.

 

[ckessel]

Add frame connectors and torque boxes to the mix too.

 

[Kern Dog]

I made my own frame connectors and torque boxes for a fraction of what they cost from vendors.
There is a concept known as The point of diminishing returns.
I interpret that to describe a situation where changes one makes get to a point where they are of no real benefit.
We have a forum member here that loves to argue that point when the subject of chassis improvements cones up. There are things that some of us have dove that he thinks are overkill, having no benefit at all. In the early 2000s, it became popular to replace our 9/16” tie rod ends with the C body sized 11/16” for durability. People put in frame connectors and torque boxes too. That member thinks all you need is one or the other.
Several years back, a company known as XV Motorsports invested a bunch of money in a business that catered to improving the handling of these classics. They built a chassis jig that allowed them to mount a car to it and measure the weak points while putting the car through a series of twists, bumps, rise and fall, etc. they used the data to design suspension kits that they would install or sell through their store/shop. I would love to know what they learned about what worked and what didn’t. It would help keep us from adding weight where it made no difference.
My red car….

Is just shy of 4000 lbs despite some lightweight stuff in it. I do have big torsion bars, sway bars, frame connectors, torque boxes, k member reinforcements and lots of sound deadening so I did expect it to weigh higher than average.
This car weighed 3580 without a spare:

It is essentially the same car. I’ve since added sound deadening, carpet and replaced the bench with bucket seats. It has a slate now so I’m guessing it is closer to 3680-3700 now so where is the 300 lb difference?

Smaller wheels and tires, no console, no radio or A/C, small torsion bars, smaller frame connectors and thinner gauge metal in the torque boxes.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Thanks for the suggestions, 68 S S. I neglected to mention my Charger has power steering, I edited my first post. My tires are brand new Cooper Cobras that will be mounted on new mags when I'm done some major under-body work on the car (new gas tank, fuel lines, front shocks).

my car also has power steering. When I installed the fast ratio arms, I was running a rebuilt stock box from Firm Feel, Stage 2. With FF Stage 2 power steering and fast ratio arms, steering effort was manageable, but almost as stiff as manual steering. KD ran FF Stage 3 power steering with fast ratio arms prior to installing the Borgeson power steering (which I also now have) and although his steering was also pretty firm, it was a little looser than my car, which is the opposite of what we expected. Anyway, if you did go with a rebuilt power steering from Firm Feel and wanted to run the fast ratio arms, I'd recommend FF Stage 1 or 2. Stage 1 is firmer than stock - they call it the cop car feel. Stage 2 is one level firmer, then stage 3 is one level firmer still.

The fast ratio arms are not unmanageable and not as firm as manual steering, BUT the steering effort with power steering comparing with and without the fast ratio arms is a pretty big difference in left to right firmness feel. You can always try it and then go back to stock if you prefer like I did.

 

[Some Car Guy]

You can modify the ford ball joint end links. Those were a nice drop in on my 69. The 70 up is different and I think it’s just cutting a little off that is needed.

Years ago I put in the beefy rear shackles on a 70 challenger and noticed a difference. It had the poly bushing in the front when I got the car.

I bought a roller idler for my car, but have yet to install it. Supposed to take up some slop.

 

[Rusty knuckles]

All new bushings in the front end then an alignment helps a ton. From there I'd get a bigger sway bar. You didn't say what you wanted in end use so I'm assuming a nice cruiser. I would not change the torsion bars or leaf springs for bigger and heavier ones.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

Gonna watch this thread (and others) since I will slowly work my way piece by piece to a better handling setup on my car. Main difference for me compared to others is I think I will stay manual steering.

 

[Some Car Guy]

@kerndog

The testing at xv found the radiator support is a really weak place in these cars. They sold that heavy bar for it.

Many years back I bought a junky and rusty 70 challenger for parts. I drove it some to test out driveline. I remember thinking how the front end felt tight and that was surprising. Thing that stuck out was they used a heavy angle iron as the bottom of the core support on that car. lol. Then I saw the xv stuff and it made sense that a junker would feel that good. I always wanted to try that mod. My car now isn’t a good candidate for such a setup. I’m not sure if you can still buy the xv stuff. Maybe us car tool bought them out?

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

@kerndog

The testing at xv found the radiator support is a really weak place in these cars. They sold that heavy bar for it.

Many years back I bought a junky and rusty 70 challenger for parts. I drove it some to test out driveline. I remember thinking how the front end felt tight and that was surprising. Thing that stuck out was they used a heavy angle iron as the bottom of the core support on that car. lol. Then I saw the xv stuff and it made sense that a junker would feel that good. I always wanted to try that mod. My car now isn’t a good candidate for such a setup. I’m not sure if you can still buy the xv stuff. Maybe us car tool bought them out?

I forgot to include on my list that I had a lower radiator core support from US Car Tool welded in on my car.
66-70 B-Body Core Support Stiffener

 

[Kern Dog]

I've seen those and figured that they probably do have some value.
There was one episode of Roadkill Garage where they bought a '68 Dart that had a 440 in it. The prior owner had cut the upper section of the core support and that band that runs under the radiator opening. Yeah, it allowed for faster engine removal and installation but I'm sure the front end was a bit flexible as a result. I do remember that they thought the upper section wasn't as critical as the lower.
I don't have that lower reinforcement in my car. Maybe one day when I repaint it, I might add it to the car.

 

[ckessel]

I went the DIY route on my lower tie bar. 2" .090 wall square, 90* elbows from a metal distributor and some plate material to weld on the bottom side of the rails. Plus made my own upper tie bar, side baffles, added some braces in on my 65. If you have access to materials and equipment, plus some skills, you could do many of the structural upgrades yourself.